Viscosity: Engine protection Vs. enhanced mileage

[rstcso]

If Mobil would introduce Mobil 2 in 2.5W-25, it would sell like hotcakes!

Any Federal laws akin to moonshine preventing someone from brewing their own, or just do-gooders on forums policing what others do?

 

[RDY4WAR]

I mix 0W-20 and 5w-30 sometimes, which makes 2.5W-25. It runs great in my Civic!

I use 3.77 quarts of 5W-40 in my Tahoe to 2.23 quarts of 0W-30. It's a πW-∫v0^6(2πxdx).

 

[Revving2Redline]

My 2022 Lexus ES350 calls for 0w – 20 oil in the 3.5L V6. The manual does say that if 0w – 20 is not available, 5w-20 may be substituted, but it must be replaced with 0w-20 “at the next regular oil change.”

To protect my remaining warranty I continue using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w-20, but I wince every time I pour that watery-looking stuff into the engine.

It is my gut feeling that 0-20w oil is specified solely on the basis of delivering optimum fuel mileage, and that 5-20w (or even perhaps 5w-30 in a warm climate) would likely provide better engine protection and longer service life under "normal," commuter car use.

I live in North Florida; the engine “might” see a cold start near freezing temperature 2 or 3 days a year. Long summers are HOT. I buy my cars new and keep them for a very long time so optimizing service life is paramount to me. I change oil/filter at 4000 mile intervals and am a very conservative driver.

While these are the usage parameters for my particular vehicle, but I suspect my general question applies to many late model vehicles with very lightweight oil recommendations.

Since my gut feelings are worth about as much as a noisy stomach growl, does the empirical evidence suggest compromises have been made in engine protection in favor of boosting fuel efficiency?

Until you see the alligators leaving Florida because it's too cold i don't think you have too much to worry about. If you would like the concept of having a little bit more protection but you're also tied up and being worried about using the so-called mandated or required viscosity what you could do is just use what you're using and about halfway through the oil change interval, leave the filter on just change the oil and run it the rest of the interval and replenish the majority. After you are out of warranty or whatever i don't foresee going up a slight bit in viscosity causing any problem. In fact depending on how you drive, it may benefit you. Stay tuned as some people will chime in with thoughts and reasoning and maybe a little bit of fishing of what should be done.

 

[Revving2Redline]

Just because it is hot outside does not mean that your engine, if running properly, is running any hotter. The OP posits that there is some point where a tradeoff occurs between 0W20 and 5W20... some place where you forgo longevity to get better gas mileage. There are very few places, if any, in these United States where there would be a difference in ease of starting between these two grades of oil.

Oil failure, or engine degradation due to thin oil is very unlikely to take a car off the road. Very few cars, for whatever reason, see more than 250,000 miles and low, low single digit percentages make it to 300,000.

Feeling uneasy when pouring "watery" oil into a sump is meaningless.

If you are really trying to max out a car's life, few can argue with these:

1. Keep your car meticulously. Fix anything that is broken, or that you think might break. Inspect weekly, monthly. Keep the car clean, washed and waxed, or ceramiced, whatever, just keep it good.
2. Change your oil more frequently than the manufacturer suggests, and consider an OCI of between 4 and 5K. Use the oil weight and spec recommended by the manufacturer, and use a decent brand like, minimally, Kirkland or QS. These oils are reasonably priced and though I mention them as minimal standards, point out that they are both uniformly excellent. Keep all the other fluids topped up and replaced at regular intervals.
3. Don't ski past the tips... call a mechanic when you need to.

It actually looks like the OP is already doing this, so it's all good. Lastly, there was no need to sleight PUP 0W20, which is my go-to, when it is priced okay.

If low low single digits make it to 300,000 miles, what becomes the measurement of those who get to say 350k+? 400k?

 

[wemay]

Some of my best work.

Indeed. I couldn't help but hear someone's granny yelling "Bingo!"

 

[TomYoung]

If low low single digits make it to 300,000 miles, what becomes the measurement of those who get to say 350k+? 400k?

View attachment 289000

View attachment 289001

I don’t have the numbers, but low numbers. Congrats. What weight are you using?

 

[ka9mnx]

What company has the best reputation for durability? Answer: Toyota.

Toyota has fallen from grace in recent years.

 

[LordNilesStandish]

2GR, just run what you want. It doesn't care.

 

[rstcso]

Toyota has fallen from grace in recent years.

I'm giving Toyota credit for falling less than their competitors, e.g. Honda, Subaru, etc. (and I just bought a Honda).

 

[Revving2Redline]

I don’t have the numbers, but low numbers. Congrats. What weight are you using?

Currently M1 EP HM 5w30 w Schaeffer's Moly Ep 132 additive so im sure its at least in the 40 range. Has minor seep leak but its a can of worms im told to tear apart and fix. Drove 500 miles yesterday (Osage Beach Missouri) and only moved approximately 2-3mm off stick this morning checked it cold.

 

[Navi]

In.Toyotas European manual I believe it leaves open the option for 5w-30. In truly hot places like Iraq dealers and mechanics will put in the thickest oil available. In fact in Saudi Arabia Toyota dealers use 5w-40, 10w-40 and 15w-40.

I would tell you to go with 5w-40 and dont look back. You want no or fewer oil leaks? You want longest engine life...5w-40...

 

[Navi]

Here is the page on oil viscosity.for the Toyota Camry HEV sold in Europe.

So Toyota does suggest thicker viscosity in Europe and in the Middle East its oils as thick as 15w-40 which Toyota provides in a branded silver bottle.

 

[GI_GRIFF]

Not that it matters, but a friend of mine here in town in Nebraska drives every workday night, year-round, delivering pharmaceutical drugs all over to different drugstores in different towns in the state. That company bought the 2015 Honda CRV non-hybrid he drove until recently brand new. They just recently retired it to around town use because the AC broke down and they didn't want to spend the money to fix it. That Honda CRV has over 400,000 miles on it, with the original engine still running fine, lacking the AC. That car ran 0w-20 Castrol Edge all its life.

 

[LordNilesStandish]

I have always ran my 2008 2GR-FE on 10W40. I even used to drop it off at the dealer and supply my own oil. They would happily use it. This car was specced for 0W20, must have been one of the first.
I swapped from the 0W20 because it ran a little strange, going down a multi story carpark exit ramps it would kind of run away, or when slowing down to do very low speed turns it wouldn't down shift until you accelerated again and then there would be a 2 second lag while it got its act together. Thicker oil 'fixxed' this, also helped valvetrain run quieter.
A few times I even ran 10W50, didn't notice a difference at all.
I always got astounding mileage. Some times as low as 7.2 L/100 km and 6.8-6.9 once or twice.
It's at 252,000 km. No issues.
Im actually getting it ready to sell. Not that there is anything wrong with it, in fact the whole car is in astoundingly good condition, I just got bored driving the same car every day for a big chunk of my life.
If I was to start over, I would run the 0W40 and 5W40 euro oils and just change it once a year and forget about it.

 

[LordNilesStandish]

In.Toyotas European manual I believe it leaves open the option for 5w-30. In truly hot places like Iraq dealers and mechanics will put in the thickest oil available. In fact in Saudi Arabia Toyota dealers use 5w-40, 10w-40 and 15w-40.

I would tell you to go with 5w-40 and dont look back. You want no or fewer oil leaks? You want longest engine life...5w-40...

View attachment 289091

These cohesive molecules sound like the bees-knees.

 

[trd1zz]

I've owned multiple 2GR-FE, they are smooth as butter. The -FKS seem a bit noisier but either way the 2GR is a legend. Out of all the modern engines out there you have one of if not the best one. The only oil related thing you really have to worry about on this motor is the timing cover seeping progressing to a dripping leak. A thicker oil may help with this and for that reason alone maybe a 5w30 is better?

 

[GI_GRIFF]

A thicker oil may help with this and for that reason alone maybe a 5w30 is better?

I agree 5w-30 would be better for more reasons than one, however, I have about 75,000 miles or 7.5 years of warranty left to go before I can do that. The car calls for 0w-16. My local Toyota dealer and Toyota district manager allowed me to go up to 0w or 5w-20. I do have my services done at the dealership with my carry in oil and oil filter since I don't like the internal design of the Toyota OEM filters. They only charge me $35.00 a shot, asking me to come in every 5000 miles or 6 months, whatever comes first. Anyhow, 5w-30 it just not an option right now.

 

[Navi]

I filled mine up with 5w-40, slapped a regular Wix on there and could not care less. 0w-16? No way unless the engine is clearly rejecting it, but I dont think it will.

 

[Carlostrece]

I've mentioned this again and again on this forum, and NOBODY, has ever been able to provide evidence that a dealer will deny warranty based on the type of oil used. Yet, again and again and again and again (to infinity) we have people here panicking about only using the grade of oil in their manual "for warranty".

How would the dealer know what grade/viscosity oil was used? I've asked that question before. No one has ever answered it. Am I missing something?

 

[trd1zz]

How would the dealer know what grade/viscosity oil was used? I've asked that question before. No one has ever answered it. Am I missing something?

Purchase receipts?