Viscosity Choice for Inactive Vehicle

My question was pertaining to LTS, or at least seasonal shutdown, stored inside but not climate controlled. Any thoughts on 5W-30/10W-30 and synthetic/conventional?

I've stored cars in the winter time for 5~6 months. If there's a nice day in that period I'll fire it up and take a long drive so the oil gets nice and hot for a long period. Been doing that for decades and never had any issues with oil or gas. The Castrol Magnatec is suppose to cling better than other oils, so you might consider using that.
 
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What you're saying makes sense, but if we're talking about something that's only sitting for 6 months or less with fresh (Mobil 1 or something similar) in the sump, do I really need to change that oil that's had 3 minutes of run time while parking it in the barn, then sat unused for only 6 months with air filter etc intact and not open to the elements, as soon as I pull it out of storage?

No you don't have to. Key is to never start-up an engine and just run it for a few minutes. Every time I put a vehicle in storage for the winter it gets a very long drive, the gas tank filled up with STA-BIL added. Battery gets charged over the storage period. If there's a nice day or two and the roads are clean it gets fired up and driven for a long time before going back to sleep.
 
No you don't have to. Key is to never start-up an engine and just run it for a few minutes. Every time I put a vehicle in storage for the winter it gets a very long drive, the gas tank filled up with STA-BIL added. Battery gets charged over the storage period. If there's a nice day or two and the roads are clean it gets fired up and driven for a long time before going back to sleep.

I didn't address any return to service criteria but do this without question
 
No you don't have to. Key is to never start-up an engine and just run it for a few minutes. Every time I put a vehicle in storage for the winter it gets a very long drive, the gas tank filled up with STA-BIL added. Battery gets charged over the storage period. If there's a nice day or two and the roads are clean it gets fired up and driven for a long time before going back to sleep.
That's exactly what I do. Except the roads are never clear of salt until a while after the last snow. It's a half an hour drive to my friends place where it stays. I drive there, change the oil and park it. I also run expensive ethanol free 91 the last couple tanks before storage, plus the stabil.
 
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Thanks everyone, these are all great suggestions. This time, however, I will choose brand based on price, and select 5W-30/10W-30 and synthetic/conventional based on advice received here. I should note that the vehicle has only ever had 10W-30 conventional oil. Perhaps that affects peoples' opinions regarding viscosity choice. I can get 5W-30 synthetic for about the same price, so that's why I'm considering it. Further suggestions?
 
My long term storage has always had a change to a 15W-40 HDEO like Delo, Delvac or Delo then taken for a good drive to get the oil fully heated and parked.

I start them get the oil fully heated with a long drive then come back and change to the normal operational oil when removing from storage.

I can't say it works or doesn't just that I've had no obvious issues with storage up to 36 months.
 
My long term storage has always had a change to a 15W-40 HDEO like Delo, Delvac or Delo then taken for a good drive to get the oil fully heated and parked.

I start them get the oil fully heated with a long drive then come back and change to the normal operational oil when removing from storage.

I can't say it works or doesn't just that I've had no obvious issues with storage up to 36 months.
It's a good cleaning regimen anyway doing that. Especially if you extend oil changes at all during normal routine. For only 6 months or less fresh oil put in a hot engine then parked immediately for winter, run the same oil a month or 2 (less than 2k miles - mostly short trips to work) has been my routine. As you said, i don't know if it works, but the engine sure looks clean.
 
I suppose if a Group III "synthetic" 5W-30 can be purchased for the about the same price as conventional 10W-30 (which is what vehicle specifies), might as well go with the "synthetic." (Must purchase 5W-30 to get the best price on the "synthetic.")
 
I suppose if a Group III "synthetic" 5W-30 can be purchased for the about the same price as conventional 10W-30 (which is what vehicle specifies), might as well go with the "synthetic." (Must purchase 5W-30 to get the best price on the "synthetic.")
Would the synthetic 5W-30 offer superior oxidation resistance, compared to the conventional 10W-30, as it sits unused in the sump, or doesn't oxidation occur in that situation?
 
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