...and still no evidence of any engine issues attributed to the FL820S...
Bill
Bill
Virgin Motorcraft FL-820s C&P
- Thread starter blupupher
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Keep using those filters that tear ... because they've never blown-up any engines.
Just did oil change an hours ago on the 2010 F150 5.4l 3v . Use it with confident. I’m done going again it now . I’m back using it . I will continue using all motorcraft oil filter on all my Ford . Fram for any other vehicles . Since I like buy all my oil at Walmart .
Zee09
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Too bad Bob wasn't the oil filter guy.Keep using those filters that tear ... because they've never blown-up any engines.
Why not choose something like a NAPA Gold (on sale of course) instead?
I've used these for about 60K miles of oil changes on my mom's Ford Five Hundred. I think I've used a NAPA Gold equivalent once or twice, otherwise the FL-820S.
Back in my day (2007-2008) when everyone hated the Fram orange can of doom (and I experienced one engine failure with one, but it was a combination of issues...) Motorcraft were considered the best filters next to NAPA Gold. I still buy MC Filter equivalent part numbers if I can, as they're an enormous value imo, at least at Wal-Mart for $4-6 or so generally. I trust them much more than Fram orange cans of doom.
Back in my day (2007-2008) when everyone hated the Fram orange can of doom (and I experienced one engine failure with one, but it was a combination of issues...) Motorcraft were considered the best filters next to NAPA Gold. I still buy MC Filter equivalent part numbers if I can, as they're an enormous value imo, at least at Wal-Mart for $4-6 or so generally. I trust them much more than Fram orange cans of doom.
Case of oil filter PTSD.
The engine failure may have been caused by using a lot of Seafoam in the intake, gas, and in the oil itself, and running the filter to 3000 miles. It was on my 5MGE Supra. Toyota switched to a smaller filter without telling anyone, as they used to use a Ford big block sized filter for 6000 mile OCIs in the 80s, and it was back spec'ed to a tiny 4 cylinder Camry filter. I think my combination of stuff and the back spec caused it, but upon pulling the head the cylinders were mirror shiny, so I think it gave up on oiling at some point. I didn't cut the filter open then, though.
So perhaps it wasn't the fault of Fram but I've actually honestly never put an Orange Can of Doom on anything in the past decade until getting my Fusion with a cartridge filter. I justified it as being a cartridge filter and the bypass/etc being built in. I probably still wouldn't put any Fram oil filter that's not cartridge on anything else due to the PTSD. :/
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Oops, sorry, I read the rules and found out Orange Can of Doom as a slang is not allowed.
Please forgive me, but it's already quoted, so...
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So exactly how did this engine fail ?
Gradually it would seemingly take forever to warm up, then one day it wouldn't start. By that, the car couldn't even really move under its own power until it was fully at operating temperature. It acted normal enough once it got to operating temperature, but one day it wouldn't even start after a week or so of doing that. Compression was at 80-90 PSI in all cylinders. No rod knock/etc, but there was definitely what I thought was lifter tick, which is why I tried the Seafoam. No oil light ever came on.
I've not actually taken apart the block or gone into the oil pan yet, though it's been over a decade. I pulled the head and the cylinders were glazed up, though.
It's been a decade now and the car is still sitting, head off, ready for the block to be removed, etc. I just wasn't prepared for the money commitment a project car like that took at 20, and it sat in our garage since.
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I should note, too, how correlated, I have no idea, but I got a second 5MGE Supra initially as a parts car with a good engine that I ended up just driving for a few years/30+ k miles (instead of fixing my much nicer one with a blown engine with it...) that I used a Motorcraft PH3600 equivalent sized filter with mostly, and I ended up getting a few instances where my oil pressure gauge would read zero. I switched to a NAPA Gold 1068 (Ford Big Block sized filter) and never had it happen again.
I think in this instance it wasn't Fram, but probably more to do with the size switch. I remember now it was spec'd for a PH3614 filter, which for a high performance 2.8L inline six engine isn't ideal, being the same filter as my 1.6L Nissan Sentra.
I think in this instance it wasn't Fram, but probably more to do with the size switch. I remember now it was spec'd for a PH3614 filter, which for a high performance 2.8L inline six engine isn't ideal, being the same filter as my 1.6L Nissan Sentra.
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