Very High Performance Oil Options

[Colorado_S14]

I have a 1997 Nissan 240SX with the 2.4L I-4 engine and has been aftermarket turboed. The motor has been bored over .020" built with forged pistons, rods, and coated bearings. Clearances are looser than factory for sure but I cannot remember off the top of my head specific details. The motor should put out around 375-400whp so it is pretty hot and highly strained. The KA24DE is a long stroke motor and I have a 7000rpm redline.

Motor currently has 0 miles on the rebuild, current break in fill is 3.6quts of Valvoline conventional 10w30, with .5qts of Valvoline Max Life 10w30 (heard the additives help with break in)

My question is weather that is a good break in blend? And what would guesses be as to what I should run once I get a couple thousand miles (taking suggestion on when to switch to syn) on the motor and switch to synthetic. I am thinking either a 40-50wt (50 too much?) so maybe the Redline or Amsoil 10w40, 5w40, etc.

What is the difference on the Amsoil XL, European, and Premium? Also, what is the consensus between 10w40 vs 5w40, I would imagine the 10w is more stable or am I off base.

Thanks!

 

[Ben99GT]

Originally Posted By: Colorado_S14
I have a 1997 Nissan 240SX with the 2.4L I-4 engine and has been aftermarket turboed. The motor has been bored over .020" built with forged pistons, rods, and coated bearings. Clearances are looser than factory for sure but I cannot remember off the top of my head specific details. The motor should put out around 375-400whp so it is pretty hot and highly strained. The KA24DE is a long stroke motor and I have a 7000rpm redline.

Motor currently has 0 miles on the rebuild, current break in fill is 3.6quts of Valvoline conventional 10w30, with .5qts of Valvoline Max Life 10w30 (heard the additives help with break in)

My question is weather that is a good break in blend? And what would guesses be as to what I should run once I get a couple thousand miles (taking suggestion on when to switch to syn) on the motor and switch to synthetic. I am thinking either a 40-50wt (50 too much?) so maybe the Redline or Amsoil 10w40, 5w40, etc.

What is the difference on the Amsoil XL, European, and Premium? Also, what is the consensus between 10w40 vs 5w40, I would imagine the 10w is more stable or am I off base.

Thanks!


What kind of oil temps do you plan on seeing? Do you have an oil cooler?

 

[shpankey]

I'm no expert, so listen to others here first. But after break-in, if you could afford it, I might look at Redline 0w-40.

I have a modded up turbo direct injection car and it's what I plan on putting in next. I currently have GC 0w30 in it. Which wouldn't be a bad oil for you either. You could also go with something like M1 0w-40 European formula. You could also look at something like Rotella's 5w-40 or M1 TDT.

 

[Colorado_S14]

I am not sure yet, on the street I would have a tough time guessing. At the track maybe 220, I will have a cooler but have yet to run the new setup so I am not 100% sure on temps.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

We must know oil temps, But for "off the shelf" M1R4T is one of mobil's best oils. Everything else mobil is underaddtised for racing. Then you have mail order: Fuchs Silkolene, Redline, specialised amsoils etc. Just dont run a ILSAC GF4 anything in there. BTW I dont see you getting over 250 RWHP naturally aspirated no juice.

 

[DieselTech]

Redline!!

 

[addyguy]

If you plan on running this thing hard, a 40-weight synthetic would be my rec....Redline 10W-40, M1 TDT 5W-40, Rotella T6 5W-40....

 

[d00df00d]

Originally Posted By: Ben99GT
What kind of oil temps do you plan on seeing? Do you have an oil cooler?

Seconded. These are important questions.

 

[steve20]

agreed on the RWHP--doubtful.
While it is absolutely possible to build , in this form, it is not going to live too long no matter what

 

[NHHEMI]

For break in I would look to one of the new speciaty break in oils available out there now. Royal Purple offers a good one and Joe Gibbs offers one now as well I imagine would be good too. I think I saw where Comp Cams does one as well.

http://www.royalpurple.com/breakin-oil.html
http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/products/enginebuilder.html

Once broken in for your application I would be hard pressed to suggest anything better than Redline oil. For 4cyl turbo engines it does a great job. Royal Purple would be my second suggestion( probably the XPR racing oil ). I would probably run a 10W-40 in that application.

 

[ScoobySTeveD]

Originally Posted By: steve20
agreed on the RWHP--doubtful.
While it is absolutely possible to build , in this form, it is not going to live too long no matter what


The first line of the OP mentions aftermarket turbo...? Don't worry about how he's going to get there.

It would help to know oil pressures and temperatures once it's running, especially on the track to fine tune the viscosity. If you're starting it up in winter in Denver, I'd look for a Rotella dino to break it in on. 15W40 if it's mid-summer, 10W30 if you're doing it in the spring. I've broken in a couple of loose tolerance Subaru motors and used Castrol GTX with success as well. Rings seated well with little blowby at it has a wider selection of viscosities than Rotella.

The Amsoil ARO 20W50 is relatively cheap and works well in loose tolerance motors in the summer. But I would try to run the AMO 10W40 first and check your oil pressure. You can even blend the two to get a custom mixture. If you find any vendors near you with leftover TRO 20W50, snap it up. It was good stuff.

If money is no object and this is a competition car only, the 15W50 Dominator racing oil is very nice, but don't leave it in there for a full street drain interval.

Outside the Amsoil family, I've always been a fan of Motul 300V. My car ran cooler on TRO 20W50 though, and it was a better price, so that's why I went Amsoil.

Nothing wrong with Royal Purple XPR 10W40 either. I just get Amsoil cheaper than the RP.

 

[Colorado_S14]

Regarding the setup, plenty of guys are pushing 350-450whp with the turboed KA24DE pretty reliably. Going 500whp+ is when things start to really get picky I will be at around 15-17 psi probably, but with altitude losses maybe 360-375whp. I have yet to track the car at these power levels but will have a good oil cooler. I have always been a Redline fan and run their gear oils in the diff and transmission. However, a local Nissan guy is an Amsoil dealer so I am tempted to look that way due to price breaks he can give. Between the three Amsoil choices I listed are there any opinions?]

I think I am at around 25-30psi at idle if the first startup is any indication. I expect 60+psi max.

 

[ScoobySTeveD]

Originally Posted By: Colorado_S14
Between the three Amsoil choices I listed are there any opinions?


Don't use the XL on the track. That motor deserves the best. XL is technically Group III and has higher volatility than the full PAO Amsoils.

Don't use AFL European formula. It has lower ZDDP to meet European standards. If you're looking for a 5W40, go with the DEO diesel oil.

But again, I say your best daily driving options are the Premiums (AMO and ARO.)

I'm sure that your local Nissan tuner / Amsoil guy would be happy to sign you up as a preferred customer to get you the best prices and offer local experience on the best oils for your application.

 

[stockrex]

May I ask how hard do u plan to run for breakin
Any major syn will be fine just change often

What additive is needed for breakin

 

[Colorado_S14]

I plan on doing something similar to this for break in.

 

[shpankey]

Originally Posted By: Colorado_S14
I plan on doing something similar to this for break in.


I did this same thing. I have been taught this way since the 90's and have used it every time. Just recently used it on my brand new Mazdaspeed 3 to amazing results. Here is a recent UOA that was taken from 8k mi to 11mi on the odometer. Compare this to other UOA's of this car with even 20k and sometimes 30k miles on them and compare the wear...

My recent UOA


...and you can see, it works. I've also raced many Mazdaspeeds stock for stock and always win convincingly. But they always comment and ask what mods I had done, when I had none. I do have mods now, but the point stands.

 

[Cujet]

Just about everything I have ever owned has been turbocharged. I've been through the engines many times, generally for boost related, shortened connecting rods!

Anyway, without a doubt, Mobil 1 15-50 is the best "off the shelf" oil for turbo cars. Especially ones that run high boost and high loads.

I never bothered to worry about break in with turbo engines. The cylinder pressure is high enough to force ring seating with any oil. I always start out with M1 15-50.

My last car, a turbo Miata running 33 pounds of boost came apart when 2 connecting rods were about 1/4 inch shorter, due to excessive boost. (a common prob with those engines and high boost). Anyway, the bearings were perfect, as was the crankshaft. Proof positive of the ability of M1 to hold up to high boost and race conditions in roasting hot South Florida.