VDC light and brake light. 2016 Nissan Quest.

[JTK]

We've been having a steady VDC light occasionally come on and most recently the "Brake" light on startup that goes out the first time you mash the brakes on our 2016 Nissan Quest SV with about 44K miles on it. We bought it "Certified Used" from a Nissan dealer in April 2017 with 32300mi on it. The brake fluid reservoir is approaching the "add" line, but it's pretty close to between add and full, a tad closer to "add". I pulled a front and rear wheel to check the brakes and the pads are pretty well worn, but could probably go another 10K miles+. The rear caliper pistons are extended a fair amount. The rotors look like new yet. Gotta love "certified used" when within 10K miles of purchase, you need 2 new tires and within under 12K miles, new brakes. Could these lights be related to the amount of pad wear and brake fluid level? I've not experienced this with any of my other vehicles in the past. Just wondering if this is a Nissan thing? It's been a while since I've owned one. The last Nissans we owned were back around 2001 (2 different Sentras). Thanks.

 

[28oz]

Pad wear, probably not. Fluid level? Perhaps. My 2004 Quest is on its third ABS pump for the same issue. I get the light trifecta of Brake, VDC, and SLIP whenever it dies. It really could be a lot of things. Get the code pulled and go from there.

 

[JTK]

I forgot to add, I did scan for codes with my basic scanner and it indicated "no codes present". Perhaps a more advanced one will show something. My model has several dash icons associated with the vehicle dynamics control. The one that stays lit from time to time is the icon of the car leaving skid marks. More recently is the word "brake", such as when the P-brake is on, which it isn't. We've cycled it. The "brake" light goes out. The skid mark (lol) light comes on at odd times when under way and then will be off after the next restart.

 

[nthach]

Any fluid leaks at the MC, lines or a flaky level switch at the reservoir? Maybe a broken CAN line from the PCM to the ABS ECU? But if you had a broken CAN line, you'd see a communications related DTC or even a CEL.

 

[28oz]

Originally Posted By: JTK

I forgot to add, I did scan for codes with my basic scanner and it indicated "no codes present". Perhaps a more advanced one will show something. My model has several dash icons associated with the vehicle dynamics control. The one that stays lit from time to time is the icon of the car leaving skid marks. More recently is the word "brake", such as when the P-brake is on, which it isn't. We've cycled it. The "brake" light goes out. The skid mark (lol) light comes on at odd times when under way and then will be off after the next restart.

Yes, you will need a fancier scanner than a typical engine code scanner. It will need to be capable of reading ABS codes. Some auto parts stores have them, some don't. If you bought it "certified" less than a year ago, maybe a trip to the dealer is in order. Even if you have to pay for a diagnostic, you'll at least know what you're up against.

 

[JTK]

Thanks. My first plan of action is to do a pad slap all the way around and go from there. I really don't want to take it in as-is, because the dealer will almost certainly want to replace brakes that won't be covered. I do have bumper/bumper coverage until 100K miles, but of obviously those don't cover wear items like brakes. nthatch- No fluid leaks what so ever.

 

[28oz]

Originally Posted By: JTK

Thanks. My first plan of action is to do a pad slap all the way around and go from there. I really don't want to take it in as-is, because the dealer will almost certainly want to replace brakes that won't be covered. I do have bumper/bumper coverage until 100K miles, but of obviously those don't cover wear items like brakes.

 

[SatinSilver]

That seems like an awfully short time of ownership for a certified vehicle to need brake work as mentioned. I'd call the sales manager about it since the salesman won't have any say in the matter. See if they will make things right. Since that should have been noticed when it was turned in. Never hurts to try.

 

[28oz]

Originally Posted By: SatinSilver

That seems like an awfully short time of ownership for a certified vehicle to need brake work as mentioned. I'd call the sales manager about it since the salesman won't have any say in the matter. See if they will make things right. Since that should have been noticed when it was turned in. Never hurts to try.

Perhaps, but if there was enough pad material left to pass a state safety inspection, they likely didn't care when they "certified" the vehicle. That would just be added expense for the dealer that wasn't strictly and technically needed at time of sale.

 

[JTK]

Originally Posted By: SatinSilver

That seems like an awfully short time of ownership for a certified vehicle to need brake work as mentioned. I'd call the sales manager about it since the salesman won't have any say in the matter. See if they will make things right. Since that should have been noticed when it was turned in. Never hurts to try.

Yeah, it was a fiasco early on. Was missing the spare tire, had only one FOB and has some other small issues when I picked it up, even though all those items were checked off as being in order on the multi page check list that "certified vehicles" must pass prior to sale. My salesman quit the day after I picked the van up, etc.. You couldn't make this stuff up. I went on such a letter writing and phone calling mission after that, they extended my warranty for me and made all the above items right. They did replace two of the tires the day I picked the van up, but I'm sure they were with used tires. All 4 matched, but they weren't new from the get-go. Rears had probably 80-90%, fronts were 75%. FWIW, I didn't buy this van because it was "certified", it just happened my darling bride liked it and it was a decent price.

 

[The Critic]

Normal. Top off the brake fluid and the lights will go off.

 

[tomcat27]

at many dealers, "certified" means nothing except an inflated price. our "Certified" Jeep had a leaking transfer case, leaking rear end, and couple of others things wrong that "should" have been caught during inspection. lol best yet, instead of fixing them gratis, they charged it against my extended warranty - who paid it, but called me to ask if these things were broken at delivery - to which I replied "yes". I'm also not sure that you want dealer installed tires. Carmax put 4 new tires on ("Epic Tour") that vibrated like crazy. nothing could be done to get rid of the vibration (4 visits to 2 different shops) other than replace the tires with real tires.

 

[JTK]

Originally Posted By: tomcat27

at many dealers, "certified" means nothing except an inflated price.....

Absolutely agree. The only decent item this dealer chain includes with it is a 5yr/100K mile power train only warranty. The rest is genuine fluff and on delivery day, I called them out every item they pencil-whipped on their "certification" check list. It was a total joke. Like I say, we went this way after looking at and test driving older, way more beat and more expensive Honda Odysseys and Toyota Siennas. This Nissan cost me $19K everything all in. It stickered at over $30K new. Realistically could have been bought new for $25K-ish + TTL. Critic, thank you for confirming that! I mail ordered a full set of pads as well given the state of wear I saw.

 

[JTK]

In regards to my VDC and brake lights coming on/off, as The Critic suggested above, low brake fluid level is all it was caused by. While I'm waiting for my pad set to come in, I added enough brake fluid to satisfy the level switch for now. It's kind of a neat feature built into these late model Nissans. Pads wear down, causing the caliper pistons to extend out, sucking up lots of brake fluid. The level runs towards the low mark on the reservoir triggering the level switch, which intermittently sets a VDC and/or BRAKE light. I've not had any other vehicle do this. Like other cab forward vehicles I've seen, the Quest has two brake fluid reservoirs. One (sealed, no cap) on the firewall, then another one tubed to it within easy reach. The higher up, more forward one has the level switch.