Varnish Stains - How to Avoid Them?

[Merkava_4]

I've got a mental problem about varnish stains.

The main reason I can't get myself to go over a 3000 mile OCI is for fear of varnish stains. I'm not sure if I have any on my engine, because from what I can see through the oil filler hole, there isn't any. Some day if I ever pull it apart, I'm hoping to see a clean engine.

I've got some questions for you experts:


1. What causes varnish stains?

2. How would someone avoid varnish stains?

3. Are varnish stains related to the same circumstances that cause sludge?

4. Why is it said that varnish stains are more prevalent with dino oil?

5. Can you still get varnish stains from a high end synthetic oil?


This guy here has none!

http://www.gts4.com/vc2/vc2.html

 

[mechtech2]

Old motors or ones that were subject to excessive heat seem to get varnished, somewhat.

 

[Merkava_4]

So basically if the oil gets cooked, it causes varnish then huh? What is inside the oil that causes that when it over heats?

 

[Sparkman]

It's really nothing to worry about, though I have a similar desire to not have varnish.

I think that proper OCI's and good crankcase ventilation play a large role.

 

[Merkava_4]

Yeah some people feel ill at the sight of blood; with me it's varnish. Just the thought of brown stained cam shafts and rocker arms makes me feel nauseated.

 

[Pablo]

Some staining is a function of the oil additive package. I have seen some pretty good HDEO's leave stains in gasoline engines. Was it a problem? NO.

 

[H2GURU]

Add my name to the varnish haters. I guess this stems from looking in the oil fill hole and seeing it. I thought it might just form at the top of the engine as it is cooler here, but I'm not sure thats correct. I' ve often wondered what an engine with Mobil-1 run in it from day one looks like? Hoping PABLO is right-on with the additive explanation!

 

[Merkava_4]

Ok I've finally got it figured out. There is not actually varnish inside the oil, but rather that brown stains on engine parts resemble wood furniture that has been stained with coloured varnish. Please tell me I'm right because I'm trying to take this complicated chemical subject and simplify it into terms I can understand.

 

[Fordiesel69]

From what I hear, auto RX will help reduce this.

 

[blackdiamond]

Do you know what that guy is running? If so, then run that.

 

[ARB1977]

70K with Redline and Amsoil, mainly Amsoil now and shes spotless.

 

[Titan]

I use Clorox and Hot water on all my whites...this keeps the varnish staining to a minimum.

 

[Alan]

Get your oil plenty hot and have a good operating PCV system.

Either dino or syn will do changed properly.

 

[farrarfan1]

Quote:

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I use Clorox and Hot water on all my whites...this keeps the varnish staining to a minimum.

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Not to mention the pesky vomit stains from looking at all that gross varnish.

 

[m2200b]

I guess it depends on your car but I've got a B2200
with 180K. Its silver under the value covers. i did Arx it about 160k 2x. Its mainly dino at 5k and mostly Chevron
dino. I've seen more stained ones including head deposits if
the pcv system is bad.

 

[BrianWC]

arx isn't hyped to be a big varnish remover. I'm sure it would over time, but....

Correct me if I'm wrong, but more so than being solely oil-related, isn't varnish a function of combustion by-products introduced from blow-by into the crankcase?

 

[JAG]

I've created varnish just by heating virgin oil. Different types have wildly different resistance to that. Creating Delo 400 15W-40 varnish was a piece of cake compared to synthetics I've tested. Combustion by-products are a huge oil killer for sure. How quickly and well the additive package can neutralize the acids and disperse the particles is key. The antioxidants must get to the oxidizing molecules as quickly as possible to react with them. The basestocks are counting on all that to happen so their molecules aren't attacked as much. The add pack are the army ants and the basestocks are the queen bee. With some basestocks (some Group 5), they can help the dispersant additives do their job.

Great varnish protectors are generally synthetics meant for long drain intervals.

 

[Steve S]

Don't worry about it.

 

[JAG]

Varnish can clog or cause sticking of PCV valve. If that happens and it isn't caught, a cascade effect happens. Varnish seals off rubber seals and gaskets in a corrosive layer that prevents fresh oil from reaching them...deterioration ensues. If you change to a really good oil, that oil will spend tens of thousands of miles breaking down the varnish, thereby reducing the proper oil change interval that it could otherwise provide. If you use "whatever oil", the problem won't be fixed. Yes, keep an eye on varnish. "Worry" isn't the right action, but vigilance is.

 

[Merkava_4]

Quote:

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I've created varnish just by heating virgin oil. Different types have wildly different resistance to that. Creating Delo 400 15W-40 varnish was a piece of cake compared to synthetics I've tested.

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Are you saying that under the right conditions, you can even get varnish staining from a short OCI, like under 3000 miles?