Varnish and Deposits

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Originally Posted By: gathermewool
You said you're going to cut open the filter after this change. Unless it has an abnormal amount of sludge I'd forget about "rinsing" the engine and simply run your oil of choice at reasonable intervals until you're read to get a used oil analysis and extend based on that.

I wouldn't worry about any flushes or additives. Use quality oil and let it do its job over time.



I did an expensive flush that was offered by Napa @ my first sign of the goof-up, and I opened the white MC 820s filter, and found nothing..it looked brand new inside...LOL.

As I posted up in this thread, this brightened it up to where I could see some silver down there in oil fill hole. Varnish, I'm thinking/remember, was X2 as dark as you see it now in the pics.

This flush was *no load,* and you had to idle up engine and hold it for a time, then back down, and so on for a longer time here.

Afterwards, I looked in the cover and the color was noticeably lighter/brighter and the deposits on those cam cage bolts were un-crusted enough to where you could the hex in the head of the bolt...... but the pleated filter element showed signs of "nothing."

If you look at the head in my pictures, you can see the worst cam hold down, comparing it to the others-- this is where the oil cap is fitted right above. And this is where you'd find condensation build up in high humidity conditions.... probably why those bolts were crusted more.

Bottom line: If there was any sludge this would have showed in element.

I'm now going to wait till 3k and cut it open. I just may post the picture, no matter.
 
If your filter was clean after a chemical flush, then I'd say you're good to go with moving on to normal intervals - no more action required...
 
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
If your filter was clean after a chemical flush, then I'd say you're good to go with moving on to normal intervals - no more action required...


Yes and maybe no.

I was under the idealistic impression that ARX would dissolve everything into an emulsion, and filter would catch that(those deposits), and what was too small(the varnish), the rinse would just hold this into suspension and drain out of the pan.

Though I think the aluminum and varnish are going to be bonded and will stay put, according to the board's experience with ARX. I'd be happy just to rid those deposits, and if rinse won't, then I'll start my extended.

Eitherway, if that head looks absolutely untouched from ARX, I'm still going to post that pic. I believe I don't fall under that severe ARX criterion for 2 treatments, but I'll focus on what one treatment did or didnt do, and leave it at that.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Sorry bud it's not 5 threads it's 3 threads. My mustang has shot 3 plugs out. I can tell you that from experience. I now have my 4.6 in pieces. I am heli-coil in each plug hole. Eliminating the issue from ever happening again


I hope you are using the inserts, not heli-coils. I've heard bad things about using heli-coils in this app.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Sorry bud it's not 5 threads it's 3 threads. My mustang has shot 3 plugs out. I can tell you that from experience. I now have my 4.6 in pieces. I am heli-coil in each plug hole. Eliminating the issue from ever happening again


I hope you are using the inserts, not heli-coils. I've heard bad things about using heli-coils in this app.


I'll second this.

There are *two* that work that is available to everyday users.

Any spark plug helicoil insert is gauranteed to fail, believe me. There are 1000's of posts on this topic. Off hand I don't know the other brand, but but "Time Serts" is one that's bullet proof.

You can do this without head removal.
 
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Originally Posted By: Ben99GT
LOCK-N-STITCH is the Ford approved method.


This. That is the other one, and what I have in my #4 hole in the Expedition.
 
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