Valvoline Restore & Protect 5w-30 (Gonna Take a Chance)

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Just got this via Autozone email. I'm still on the sidelines until we get a UOA and someone who did a before/after valve cover photo. I also think this kind of marketing diminishes its value. Its like they are executing to a traditional pre-planned marketing campaign.

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Every time I se this thread title “ Gonna take a chance “ a certain country songs rings in my head…

The devil went down to Georgia… by The Charlie Daniel’s Band …

The devil went down to Georgia looking for a soul to steal, he was way behind and in a bind looking to make deal… He came up to a country boy changing his oil that was hot and the devil jumped up on hickory stump and said boy lemme tell ya what.. in case you didn’t know it but I am oil changer too and and if you care to take a dare I’ll make a bet with you… Now you changing oil hot pretty good ol boy but give the devil his due.. I gotta a oil filter made of gold to bet against your soul to think I’m better than you..

The boy said, “ my name is Johnny and it might be a sin .. but I’ll take your bet cause you gonna regret cause I’m the best oil changer that’s ever been “..
 
I switched to this oil three days ago. Interested to see how it does.

Context:

I drive a 2017 Hyundai Sonata 2.4L, with 88k miles. OCI is 4,000 miles with premium/advanced full synthetic and OEM Hyundai Blue Filter.

I got in 2019 with 25k miles. It started burning oil at about 50-60k miles, so bad at one point I was burning a qt in 500 miles. That's been reduced to about a qt in 1000 miles now.

Always looking for ways to reduce consumption, until I can pay it off (about another year left on it) and look towards getting the engine rebuilt, if it's not better by then.
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I switched to this oil three days ago. Interested to see how it does.

Context:

I drive a 2017 Hyundai Sonata 2.4L, with 88k miles. OCI is 4,000 miles with premium/advanced full synthetic and OEM Hyundai Blue Filter.

I got in 2019 with 25k miles. It started burning oil at about 50-60k miles, so bad at one point I was burning a qt in 500 miles. That's been reduced to about a qt in 1000 miles now.

Always looking for ways to reduce consumption, until I can pay it off (about another year left on it) and look towards getting the engine rebuilt, if it's not better by then.
View attachment 201010

I had one of those, always ran Euro oil in it, either Castrol EDGE 0W-40, M1 0W-40, or QS Euro 5W-40. Never burned oil, got eid of it at 60K miles.
 
How did you reduce the oil consumption??
Those engines have low tension rings and Molybdenum coating on the piston skirts. When the coating goes bye-bye, the consumption starts. You use higher viscosity oil with better HTHS and hope for the best.
 
I switched to this oil three days ago. Interested to see how it does.

Context:

I drive a 2017 Hyundai Sonata 2.4L, with 88k miles. OCI is 4,000 miles with premium/advanced full synthetic and OEM Hyundai Blue Filter.

I got in 2019 with 25k miles. It started burning oil at about 50-60k miles, so bad at one point I was burning a qt in 500 miles. That's been reduced to about a qt in 1000 miles now.

Always looking for ways to reduce consumption, until I can pay it off (about another year left on it) and look towards getting the engine rebuilt, if it's not better by then.
View attachment 201010
If spending twice as much on additives and cleaners as the oil itself hasn’t done much to help in ~35k miles, I think I’d give up at that point and go to simply a cheaper (house?) oil and use those conserved funds to find a way to get out of that payment sooner. Just curious, with all the stuff on your radiator support, what was the cost of that, about $110? Grab a jug of $15 Providence or SuperTech and continue to change at 4k.

Hyundai engines are not known in general to die from old age. You’ve given it valiant effort; cut your financial expenditures to just what it takes to be free of it. Especially with prices these days, it’s hard to watch someone burning an extra $30+ of oil per 4k OCI on top of the $30+ they spent on the first jug they dumped in. Grab Quaker State Euro 5w40 or Pennzoil Euro L 5w30; it will serve you at least as well as what’s been going in and probably help slow the burn rate.
 
He stated he reduced his oil consumption and I'm wondering how.
Well. I did a lot of things. Currently doing, a lot of things. So it's hard to pin point just one thing. Gun to my head, if I had recommend just one thing, I would say flush your engine.

In April of 2023, I did that using the Amsoil flush and Amsoil SS. That's when I noticed it was burning a lot less. Just to be sure it was the flush that had the desired effect, I started topping off with Quaker State Ultimate Protection (because Amsoil is just too expensive at 1qt/1000 miles, I was so disappointed) and then when it came time to do my change, stuck with QSUP until I switched to Valvoline EP. At np point was it burning more than a qt in 1000 or less.

So I deduce, that the flush made the difference.
 
If spending twice as much on additives and cleaners as the oil itself hasn’t done much to help in ~35k miles, I think I’d give up at that point and go to simply a cheaper (house?) oil and use those conserved funds to find a way to get out of that payment sooner. Just curious, with all the stuff on your radiator support, what was the cost of that, about $110? Grab a jug of $15 Providence or SuperTech and continue to change at 4k.

Hyundai engines are not known in general to die from old age. You’ve given it valiant effort; cut your financial expenditures to just what it takes to be free of it. Especially with prices these days, it’s hard to watch someone burning an extra $30+ of oil per 4k OCI on top of the $30+ they spent on the first jug they dumped in. Grab Quaker State Euro 5w40 or Pennzoil Euro L 5w30; it will serve you at least as well as what’s been going in and probably help slow the burn rate.
Thank you so much for the encouraging remarks! It really means a lot to me because 1) I don't hear that often, actually hardly ever. Mostly the attitude is the opposite. 2) I really do believe I have given it such a valiant effort. I liked how you worded that.

Honestly, deep down, I know you are right and it's time to cut my losses. But used car prices are so high, and it's almost paid off. It's fuel efficient and has a lot of sentimental value to me. It's the car I took my girlfriend, who would become my wife, on many dates. It the car that we brought our son home from the hospital in. It safely and reliably took us on many road trips across the country, including last year, from Fort Worth, TX to upstate NY.

It's for those reasons mainly, as well as the fact that this has basically become my past time and hobby, that I just can't do it. I don't want to see the car go. And maybe I'm in denial, perhaps im delusional, but I firmly believe it won't self destruct if I keep doing what I'm doing. It's actually become more than a hobby, its become a a goal or a mission of mine. No sooner than I would put my 13 year old Pug down, or hypothetically, pull the plug on a family member. Crazy as it sounds, the car just means that much to me.

I am going to consider using that euro oil you mentioned, because I'm a huge fan of Quaker State (underrated king in my book). And I would be curious to see if that will actually help with the oil consumption. Not that I don't believe you that it could, just that no two cases of oil consumption seems to be the same.

Question though, isn't 5W40 too thick for the 2.4L? The Manual states up to 5W30, original spec calls for 5W20.
 
Question though, isn't 5W40 too thick for the 2.4L? The Manual states up to 5W30, original spec calls for 5W20.
Nope, the difference between a 40 grade and 30 grade at operating temps is very minor, especially when compared to the difference in viscosity between a cold 20 grade and an operating-temp 20 grade. Your engine won’t even notice; the manufacturer makes all recommendations in the US based off of CAFE credits, not engine longevity. 👍🏻
 
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