- Joined
- Nov 29, 2023
- Messages
- 554
It was more “what’s so special about Burla”?
TenWeightTirty
It was more “what’s so special about Burla”?
Nothing. That’s what made burla’s posts even funnierWhat's special about Redline Oil?
I heard somewhere that it's made from the tears of red haired mermaids.Nothing. That’s what made burla’s posts even funnier
What's a DGI Kia?This is interesting, I would probobly love to cycle this through the wife's DGI Kia
Probably GDI.What's a DGI Kia?
Unfortunately he posts ad nauseam about Redline on the Ram forums.Nothing. That’s what made burla’s posts even funnier
I switched to this oil three days ago. Interested to see how it does.
Context:
I drive a 2017 Hyundai Sonata 2.4L, with 88k miles. OCI is 4,000 miles with premium/advanced full synthetic and OEM Hyundai Blue Filter.
I got in 2019 with 25k miles. It started burning oil at about 50-60k miles, so bad at one point I was burning a qt in 500 miles. That's been reduced to about a qt in 1000 miles now.
Always looking for ways to reduce consumption, until I can pay it off (about another year left on it) and look towards getting the engine rebuilt, if it's not better by then.
View attachment 201010
so bad at one point I was burning a qt in 500 miles. That's been reduced to about a qt in 1000 miles now.
Those engines have low tension rings and Molybdenum coating on the piston skirts. When the coating goes bye-bye, the consumption starts. You use higher viscosity oil with better HTHS and hope for the best.How did you reduce the oil consumption??
He stated he reduced his oil consumption and I'm wondering how.Those engines have low tension rings and Molybdenum coating on the piston skirts. When the coating goes bye-bye, the consumption starts. You use higher viscosity oil with better HTHS and hope for the best.
Are you a surveyor? Curious about the name.Probably GDI.
Nope! Just something I picked up from flight simulators.Are you a surveyor? Curious about the name.
If spending twice as much on additives and cleaners as the oil itself hasn’t done much to help in ~35k miles, I think I’d give up at that point and go to simply a cheaper (house?) oil and use those conserved funds to find a way to get out of that payment sooner. Just curious, with all the stuff on your radiator support, what was the cost of that, about $110? Grab a jug of $15 Providence or SuperTech and continue to change at 4k.I switched to this oil three days ago. Interested to see how it does.
Context:
I drive a 2017 Hyundai Sonata 2.4L, with 88k miles. OCI is 4,000 miles with premium/advanced full synthetic and OEM Hyundai Blue Filter.
I got in 2019 with 25k miles. It started burning oil at about 50-60k miles, so bad at one point I was burning a qt in 500 miles. That's been reduced to about a qt in 1000 miles now.
Always looking for ways to reduce consumption, until I can pay it off (about another year left on it) and look towards getting the engine rebuilt, if it's not better by then.
View attachment 201010
Well. I did a lot of things. Currently doing, a lot of things. So it's hard to pin point just one thing. Gun to my head, if I had recommend just one thing, I would say flush your engine.He stated he reduced his oil consumption and I'm wondering how.
Thank you so much for the encouraging remarks! It really means a lot to me because 1) I don't hear that often, actually hardly ever. Mostly the attitude is the opposite. 2) I really do believe I have given it such a valiant effort. I liked how you worded that.If spending twice as much on additives and cleaners as the oil itself hasn’t done much to help in ~35k miles, I think I’d give up at that point and go to simply a cheaper (house?) oil and use those conserved funds to find a way to get out of that payment sooner. Just curious, with all the stuff on your radiator support, what was the cost of that, about $110? Grab a jug of $15 Providence or SuperTech and continue to change at 4k.
Hyundai engines are not known in general to die from old age. You’ve given it valiant effort; cut your financial expenditures to just what it takes to be free of it. Especially with prices these days, it’s hard to watch someone burning an extra $30+ of oil per 4k OCI on top of the $30+ they spent on the first jug they dumped in. Grab Quaker State Euro 5w40 or Pennzoil Euro L 5w30; it will serve you at least as well as what’s been going in and probably help slow the burn rate.
Nope, the difference between a 40 grade and 30 grade at operating temps is very minor, especially when compared to the difference in viscosity between a cold 20 grade and an operating-temp 20 grade. Your engine won’t even notice; the manufacturer makes all recommendations in the US based off of CAFE credits, not engine longevity.Question though, isn't 5W40 too thick for the 2.4L? The Manual states up to 5W30, original spec calls for 5W20.