Valvoline oil supplements.

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"Engine Protector (EP) is viscosity of 102 @ 100C."

Maybe the viscosity is 102 cSt at 40 C but no way is it 102 cSt at 100 C.
 
quote:

Originally posted by BlueBird:
Robbie - so your using Valvoline Engine Protector ?
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Nope, I'm using one I can not say.

It has a cSt of 2000 @ 40C and I use several ounces or more than several depending upon my BREW, in a straight 30w, the stuff I use you only want to add 2-5% with a max of say about 8-10% per volume because chiefly it takes away from the additive package.... it's almost NAKED, it only has stuff to improve Visc, and it has cleaners to CLEAN and KEPP CLEAN the engine (a cleaning VII). I use it on and off with a Thinner --- doing all this by the scientific method of EyeBalling the thing.
Done only with a couple million miles experience.
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what kind of moly does it have Syn or Natural ? anyway , what brand/grade of oil did you add it to ?
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Mine is almost naked, it has none. There are some I have and have used that are just Moly, you can do a search and there are several to choose from of either. The thing is you better know what you are doing before you add moly IMHO. Buy one PreMixed, don't buy it pure or you'll never or almost never be able to get your mixes to work....
Most moly formulas take really very little moly (very little)... The molys used today are mainly SYN, and there are several (right now I'm fixing to do an experiment with a NEW moly introduced on the market after I get through with my Teflon experiment) and some molys will not work with certain additive packages or even certain BaseStocks.... So I'd be careful. Select wisely.

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any sludge issues you see using a oil additive ? I called Valvoline and asked if VEP could be added to Durablend instead of Maxlife. The guy said it wouldnt hurt but you would get more benefit from using it with Maxlife. I dont think he was the right person to ask anyway.


Some are and some are not.
I'd say to stick with someone who will WARN you what not to do, find something that has a history of working (only a dozen or two-IMO).

From my experience: What to do or not do:
Never never never try a new brew at full strength.
Always start a brew with an ounce or two or three or four depending on the brew. And run a couple OCI's or samples before ADDing to it... that is unless you already have a clue how it will react.
I like to stick with round things like 1 ounce or 2 ounce or 4 ounce.
Also, stick only one thing in at a time. That is unless you made Brew 123 and it did well, if you add "A" to it, okay, but dont add "A+B" to the mix of 123.
It's also better but hard for the control freaks, to go several K miles (10-20) before deciding to trash or keep something, unless you see MAJOR problems with continued use. This also meand you have keept records BEFORE... but if you have not, you can TRY one thing and if the wear results are okay then continue, and after 20-30 or 10K do a flush or short OCI and then do something different or perhaps do nothing at all for a few k's and see if there is any difference.

When I change a brew I always look at my MPG, and yes there are those that say it is not a REAL factor, for me it has been, if all the constants are keept (harder done than said) and you add an additive, then the results are better seen IMO.
 
I dumped the remaining 12 oz of the Valvoline Engine Protector into my crankcase a couple weeks ago (more go get rid of it than anything else) and it did not change the oil pressure. So whatever its viscosity, it doesn't seem to affect viscosity significantly. Currently running Valvoline Durablend 15w40 SJ.
 
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