How well does this oil perform compared to Motorcraft or Pennzoil YB?
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Valvoline 5w20 dino?
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I am not familiar with DS?
For off the shelf PCMO, I would trust Valvoline as well as any other. However, in the relm of thin oils, I am a bit skittish. If I am going to run 5w20 I want Redline because it is tough enough and has an HTHS higher than many off the shelf 10w30s.
DS = Deposit Shield
Had a good UOA with the 5w30, but the 5w20 it difficult to find in 5qt jugs, which is how I purchase. A while back I did manage to find one at Wally and still have it. I would not hesitate to run it 5k.
Go to UOA and look at the NAPA 5w20 (supposed to be same), on a Honda, looks good.
Still, MC5w20 would my first choice in 5w20 dino. Though, PYB, QS, Valvoline, MC5000 based on best price at the time, will all do fine, IMO.
Go to UOA and look at the NAPA 5w20 (supposed to be same), on a Honda, looks good.
Still, MC5w20 would my first choice in 5w20 dino. Though, PYB, QS, Valvoline, MC5000 based on best price at the time, will all do fine, IMO.
Valvoline is VERY good stuff. One of the best oil's today IMO. There was a UOA on a Crown Vic PI that absolutely AMAZING on 5w20. It was only 3k miles but after 45 HOURS of idling the iron was only 9 ppm. I wouldn't hesitate to run Valvoline or NAPA 5w20 at least 5k.
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Have Valvoline 5w-20 white bottle in right now. It is my last 3K OCI and my second run of this oil. Will probably go with whatever syn is on sale and do 5K OCI till the warranty expires at 60K. Will run the current fill 3K which will be 15K on the truck. The oil must clean real well because when I drained the first fill of it, the oil was quite black. I have noticed no oil use in my truck, but my GF's Mariner V-6 has used a 1/4 Qt in 2K with the White bottle.
I used the napa 5-20 for 2 changes on my truck when it was new before I went to syn. I only went 3k on each partly because it was new and partly because when I got to 3k the oil was pretty dark and it began to sound funny, like the engine was struggling when I would start it up. Maybe just in my head but i have heard that the napa is basicly valvoline with a weaker add pack. I even called valvoline and asked them because I was thinking of buying a huge stash because it was 2.25 a quart plus they had a 25%off sale. The valvoline rep said they are almost identical but the additives in the napa dont last as long. IMO if your going old school and changing at 3k religiously napa oil would be the one to go with.
Originally Posted By: breeves
How well does this oil perform compared to Motorcraft or Pennzoil YB?
Thanks
If we're gonna talk about Valvoline versus YB pennzoil and MC then what about the difference between Valvoline dino and Valvoline Maxlife syn blend in 5w-20?!? Is there any tangible reason to buy Valvoline dino when a Maxlife syn blend is that good and the best of both, dino and synthetic, worlds?!?!
Btw, MC 5w-20 is bad [censored] oil in Hondas. It's funny, no hilarious how Ford guys and even other domestic ppl are the ones not using it.
How well does this oil perform compared to Motorcraft or Pennzoil YB?
Thanks
If we're gonna talk about Valvoline versus YB pennzoil and MC then what about the difference between Valvoline dino and Valvoline Maxlife syn blend in 5w-20?!? Is there any tangible reason to buy Valvoline dino when a Maxlife syn blend is that good and the best of both, dino and synthetic, worlds?!?!
Btw, MC 5w-20 is bad [censored] oil in Hondas. It's funny, no hilarious how Ford guys and even other domestic ppl are the ones not using it.
Last edited:
would it be ok to run Maxlife even though my 2008 F150 only has 6500 miles on it?
check the older uoa section.i did a uoa on it at 4000 miles and blackstone said i could go another one thousand miles on it.
Originally Posted By: breeves
would it be ok to run Maxlife even though my 2008 F150 only has 6500 miles on it?
No problem at all.
Quote:
I had the opportunity to talk with a chemist from XOM. He told me that all GP II/II+ oils required some esters for seal conditioning. GP III oils required esters also, more-so than the GP II oils. GP IV oils required the most esters for seal conditioners. That is whether they are high mileage or regular oils.
I can't get a "yes"/"no" answer from XOM, or anyone else, if their HM oils actually use "MORE" of these esters or if they just advertise them more seriously.
I do know that Valvoline, in their MaxLife and MaxLife synthetic,(their HM oils) do use a heavier base oil(higher HTHS), higher 100C cSt, more anti wear, more friction modifiers, more antioxidants. They also advertise and warrant that the "seal conditioners" they use are compatible with factory new and rebuilt engines.
Mobil 1 HM oils have a heavier base oil(11.79, 3.66 HTHS, for 10w30 HM) vs (10.0, 3.14 HTHS for their regular 10w30) more ZDDP, 1000 ppm, more moly, more boron, more detergents, and more antioxidants. They also advertise their seal conditioners.
I, personally, do not use 30 grade oils, but, if I were to use one, it would be either Maxlife 10w30 full synthetic, Mobil 1 10w30 HM, or Amsoil 10w30 XLT. I know that XLT is not a HM oil, but look at that add pack, HTHS, and TBN.
_________________________
Actually, I never was as good as I used to be.
Mobil 1 also says their HM oils are perfectly acceptable for use in new engines but cautions that their higher ZDDP in a 30 grade oil get a SL rating.
would it be ok to run Maxlife even though my 2008 F150 only has 6500 miles on it?
No problem at all.
Quote:
I had the opportunity to talk with a chemist from XOM. He told me that all GP II/II+ oils required some esters for seal conditioning. GP III oils required esters also, more-so than the GP II oils. GP IV oils required the most esters for seal conditioners. That is whether they are high mileage or regular oils.
I can't get a "yes"/"no" answer from XOM, or anyone else, if their HM oils actually use "MORE" of these esters or if they just advertise them more seriously.
I do know that Valvoline, in their MaxLife and MaxLife synthetic,(their HM oils) do use a heavier base oil(higher HTHS), higher 100C cSt, more anti wear, more friction modifiers, more antioxidants. They also advertise and warrant that the "seal conditioners" they use are compatible with factory new and rebuilt engines.
Mobil 1 HM oils have a heavier base oil(11.79, 3.66 HTHS, for 10w30 HM) vs (10.0, 3.14 HTHS for their regular 10w30) more ZDDP, 1000 ppm, more moly, more boron, more detergents, and more antioxidants. They also advertise their seal conditioners.
I, personally, do not use 30 grade oils, but, if I were to use one, it would be either Maxlife 10w30 full synthetic, Mobil 1 10w30 HM, or Amsoil 10w30 XLT. I know that XLT is not a HM oil, but look at that add pack, HTHS, and TBN.
_________________________
Actually, I never was as good as I used to be.
Mobil 1 also says their HM oils are perfectly acceptable for use in new engines but cautions that their higher ZDDP in a 30 grade oil get a SL rating.
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