On my Prelude, at idle you can hear the diesel sounding pinging valve tick. I am debating on taking it for an adjustment, is it something I should do asap?
Valve ticking, is it harmful?
- Thread starter Dohc98vteC
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valve tick or injector tick?
(trick: grab a long handled screwdriver and put the handle grip part close to your ear and then try poking various valve cover locations and/or individual injectors to find out.
If it's valve lash ticking, don't delay! Do a valve lash adjustment right away. If it's the fuel injectors, there's nothing you can do about it (all electromagnetically-driven fuel injectors will "tick" as they become old. So long as they are functional, I personally would not care about the noise)
(trick: grab a long handled screwdriver and put the handle grip part close to your ear and then try poking various valve cover locations and/or individual injectors to find out.
If it's valve lash ticking, don't delay! Do a valve lash adjustment right away. If it's the fuel injectors, there's nothing you can do about it (all electromagnetically-driven fuel injectors will "tick" as they become old. So long as they are functional, I personally would not care about the noise)
Valve ticking shouldn't sound anything like diesel knocking. I think you've got another problem.
That's what I was thinking; like maybe a valve has actually dropped out of its keeper and is now bouncing off the piston.
It's probably just a loud excessive valve lash tick.
Dohc98vteC, do you know how to adjust valve lash? If not, it's pretty easy; we can talk you through it.
Dohc98vteC, do you know how to adjust valve lash? If not, it's pretty easy; we can talk you through it.
Well, I don't mean heavy sound like a diesel, just a light ticking sound that's all. How do I adjust the valve lash?
If you are competent in servicing your vehicle, refer to this instructions below (this is for S2000 but the steps are pretty much the same for Honda vehicles):
http://www.s2000.org/articles/valve_adjustment/
Q.
http://www.s2000.org/articles/valve_adjustment/
Q.
I'd much rather have loose valves than tight!
There shouldn't be any need for alarm or immediate action.
Setting valves can be done accurately and perfectly by an amateur. Take you time with the engine cool, and check everything twice.
Get a manual first.
There shouldn't be any need for alarm or immediate action.
Setting valves can be done accurately and perfectly by an amateur. Take you time with the engine cool, and check everything twice.
Get a manual first.
I've owned a number of Hondas and have occasionally checked and adjusted the valves. I never found more than a couple thousands loose on 1-2 valves. If noise persists on a fully warm engine, I would adjust. But a cold engine only valve tap is pretty normal, IMO.
I agree w/ Mechtech2, a little loose is better than too tight which can lead to a burnt, leaking valve and a cylinder head repair.
As a matter of interest, I've always adjusted all the valves that are "loose", i.e. the cam is not lifting the rocker arm at all. I then rotate engine to catch those valves that were previously not loose. Manuals all state to rotate each cylinder to TDC and only adjust the valves on the TDC cylinder. this would insure they are loose, but is a tedious process and appears unnecessary to me. Anyone else do this?
regards
I agree w/ Mechtech2, a little loose is better than too tight which can lead to a burnt, leaking valve and a cylinder head repair.
As a matter of interest, I've always adjusted all the valves that are "loose", i.e. the cam is not lifting the rocker arm at all. I then rotate engine to catch those valves that were previously not loose. Manuals all state to rotate each cylinder to TDC and only adjust the valves on the TDC cylinder. this would insure they are loose, but is a tedious process and appears unnecessary to me. Anyone else do this?
regards
You just rotate the crank by hand until you see one of the rocker arms pushing down on the valve stem opening the valve all the way. The peek of the cam lobe will be centered on the rocker arm's roller.
Then you hold that set screw still while you loosen the lock nut.
Then you back off the set screw while you slide the feeler gage in between the rocker arm and where it contacts the valve stem.
Then you turn the screw until it's tight against the feeler gage and then back off a little until you feel a slight drag while moving the feeler gage around.
Then you hold the screw still while you tighten the lock nut.
That's it for that valve. Now you rotate the crank until you see the next valve open.
Then you repeat the above for that valve and so on.
You need to place the camshaft on its base circle so it is not opening the valve. The valve has to be fully closed to allow you to adjust the lash, i.e., the space between the rocker and the valve tip.
If you proceed from one to the next in the firing order it's systematic and allows you to know the camshaft is positioned correctly. Sometimes there are instructions such as "... with the timing pointer in this position you can adjust valves 1E, 3I, 4E, etc.." (Making up these numbers. That's probably not correct for any engine ever made.
I stand corrected.
JHZR2
Staff member
Some injectors tick from new... my BMW had ticking injectors, which I replaced, and after replacement the tick was still there. On the BMW hbosch injectors, it is temperature dependent...
JMH
Quote:
You need to place the camshaft on its base circle so it is not opening the valve. The valve has to be fully closed to allow you to adjust the lash, i.e., the space between the rocker and the valve tip.
If you proceed from one to the next in the firing order it's systematic and allows you to know the camshaft is positioned correctly. Sometimes there are instructions such as "... with the timing pointer in this position you can adjust valves 1E, 3I, 4E, etc.." (Making up these numbers. That's probably not correct for any engine ever made.)
Exactly, as long as the rocker arm is loose from the camshaft the valve is fully closed by the spring. What does aligning cylinder by cylinder to TDC do for you?
regards
Merkava - Play it safe and set each cylinder's valves at it's respective TDC.
It looks like you will need a 12mm wrench, a flat screwdriver, and a set of feeler gauges.
Ever notice that there are no 13mm bolts/nuts on a Japanese car?
It looks like you will need a 12mm wrench, a flat screwdriver, and a set of feeler gauges.
Ever notice that there are no 13mm bolts/nuts on a Japanese car?
Valves too tight -> burned valves
Valves too loose -> loss of power (low valve lift), noise (too much gap), and possibly (long shot) deformed valves and/or seats because the valves slam into the seat when riding a different part of the cam than designed.
My 1990 Integra needed adjustments. I got the knack of doing it myself and did it far more frequently than the schedule calls for since it was so easy.
Valves too loose -> loss of power (low valve lift), noise (too much gap), and possibly (long shot) deformed valves and/or seats because the valves slam into the seat when riding a different part of the cam than designed.
My 1990 Integra needed adjustments. I got the knack of doing it myself and did it far more frequently than the schedule calls for since it was so easy.
Thanks mechtech2
Hopefully after two threads of me getting it wrong, maybe this time I'll get it right.
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