The only time I use a torque wrench on 6mm bolts is for cam caps, everything else is not really important and a reasonable size 1/4 ratchet is good enough - length of a 10mm spanner is your guide.
When the manual gives you a range like that it means you can do it by feel. I can’t stand using a torque wrench on m6 bolts. It always feels like something is going to break. I have a small Snap-on 1/4 ratchet that gets them tight enough every time by feel. I verify a torque wrench in a vise before using on small or really critical fasteners to see if it’s working and what correct torque should feel like.View attachment 39977
These your manufacturing specifications so that Tecton torque wrench is exact match for your job intended there; in fact, I’ve been thru that job before, done it on my old M6
Thanks bbhero. She doesn’t burn a drop of oil either. The Ford/Mazda 2.5L Duratec/MZR engines are good. There’s one guy on Mazda6 forums who just hit 400k on his!Well I have good news...
Those cams look absolutely great. And that motor is doggone clean as it can be. Very very good for 150k miles.
I use a torque wrench for things like main and rod bearings, cylinder head bolts. Things where bearing crush is crucial. I don't use them on things like valve covers, water pumps or egad, oil drain bolts.Update. I didn’t think much of it at the time, but my friends torque wrench had brownish oil when I lowered the torque setting at the base where the torque spec is dialed in. I thought maybe it was motor oil, so I just wiped it off but after reading a bit online people say this is an indication of it being bad and can throw torque specs out. What I’m wondering is if the wrench is out of spec or had an issue. I re-watched videos on YouTube and I can’t see what I did wrong. I do think thought I would have been certainly better off using a 1/4” torque wrench instead of a 3/8”. I’m fairly confident though that it wasn’t clicking like it should. However my brain should have said STOP.
Thanks bbhero. She doesn’t burn a drop of oil either. The Ford/Mazda 2.5L Duratec/MZR engines are good. There’s one guy on Mazda6 forums who just hit 400k on his!
I ran Kendall Synthetic 0w20 mostly for about 50k miles, and then for the next 50k I bought whatever synthetic was on sale. I even ran Supertech for a few. Then for the last 50k it’s been a mix of Valvoline Synthetic or Castrol Edge 0w20 depending on what had the better price, mostly Castrol. Next oil change will be back to Valvoline Synthetic but I plan to run 5w30 now that she’s got some more miles on her. I typically run 7.5k OCI, but in the past I’ve gone closer to 10k OCI. I’ll probably stick to 7.5k OCI as it means about 2 OCI/yr which I think is reasonable.
My last vehicle was a 2001 Saturn. Drank oil like it was going out of style. It’s nice to not have to top off the engine oil all the time with this vehicle.
CraftsmanWhat brand is the 1/4 torque wrench you borrowed?
I had a Pittsburgh torque wrench that size that did the same thing. The other sizes of that brand have been fine. I owned it for several years before I used it. I wound up just using a regular ratchet when installing a dorman transmission pan on my daughter's car. I knew the bolts were getting too tight for what the wrench's setting.Craftsman
Same with BMW inline 6’s. I’d rather do it by feel than crack a $600+ plastic valve cover by trusting some cheap torque wrench.Something that small, I have never used a torque wrench on. When you have been wrenching for awhile you get that "IT'S TIGHT ENOUGH" feeling and STOP!
I have installed BOO KOO SBC valve covers. These are the size/kind of bolts I am referring to.
In situations like this, you BETTER use a torque wrench!Knew a guy who's job in the military was calibrating torque wrenches. I guess it really matter's when you're torquing bolts on jet fighters and nuclear submarines. Personally, I just use my mark I calibrated elbow for most things.
I don't know what you did wrong but that should be an easy job to do; maybe somebody mess it up way before you? likely??
your inch/lbs look good on your torque wrench, within specification
also that torque wrench is more for something like tires not for 8mm screws id say
yet, you haven't screw it that bad, any shop or even yourself you can tap that out
btw, good looking engine on the inside
Tekton is doing great torque wrench for small jobs like that
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looks like I got mine in 2015
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VW made the air cooled VC’s seal with spring steel for 50 years or so. People trying to fix a non existent problem often made them worse too.Old Mopar 2 bolt covers have to be the most over torqued items ever, I cant remember one that wasn't stoved in where the bolts go.
Guys wouldnt believe that just 2 bolts could keep it tight enough for it to seal so they really crank down on them and then they couldn't figure out why its leaking oil all over the place.