Valve adjustment tool vs end wrench vs crows foot

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I'm hoping to do a valve adjustment on my Civic this weekend. It should be pretty straightforward given it has the simple screw/locknut style adjusters, but I've never done this on my own before. There are a few different types of valve adjustment tools out there but it seems nearly impossible to find them at stores -- and anyway they're all variations on a wrench-screwdriver combination.

I realize I'm being overly cautious but I'd like to use a torque wrench on the locknuts if possible (spec is 10 ft*lbs). Has anyone ever used a crows foot adapter to do this?

Any other options or should I just be prepared to use an end wrench and keep a close eye on the position of the nuts? I've still got a couple places to check for a tool but I'm not holding out too much hope.
 
I can't remember exactly what I did on this job, but I certainly didn't use any special tools. I think maybe I tightened down with the combination wrench and did final torque with the torque wrench. And the double-checked the clearance.
 
Originally Posted By: rationull
I'm hoping to do a valve adjustment on my Civic this weekend. It should be pretty straightforward given it has the simple screw/locknut style adjusters, but I've never done this on my own before. There are a few different types of valve adjustment tools out there but it seems nearly impossible to find them at stores -- and anyway they're all variations on a wrench-screwdriver combination.

I realize I'm being overly cautious but I'd like to use a torque wrench on the locknuts if possible (spec is 10 ft*lbs). Has anyone ever used a crows foot adapter to do this?

Any other options or should I just be prepared to use an end wrench and keep a close eye on the position of the nuts? I've still got a couple places to check for a tool but I'm not holding out too much hope.


I don't know about the Civic, but on a K24 engine, you can't access a couple of the nuts with a wrench, you need something deeper (like a deep socket.

I actually made my own "tool" with a deep socket a screw driver and some vise grips, to mimic this.

As far as the torque wrench?? Short answer: don't bother. Longer answer: the accuracy of a torque wrench to actually predict bolt tension is questionable anyway; adding a crow's foot extension into the mix?? IMO, at this point, you're doing more harm than good by giving your self a false sense of accuracy.
 
Which engine do you have? for the non VTEC one, just a box wrench (10mm), a feeler gauge ($6 Craftsman), and a screw driver will be sufficient.

The VTEC B series will need a bent feeler gauge. You can buy the special tool one or just bent the normal one if you want to.

Not sure about the K series engine, but as far as I know unless you have a Civic Si, Type R, or JDM, you won't have it and will not need to worry about the $12 or $67 tool, and even if you do, you are not doing it frequently enough to spend $67 over $12 for that.

I wouldn't worry about a torque wrench, as long as you don't over tighten it too much you'll be fine.
 
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This is an R18 which has a 16 valve SOHC VTEC head. No deep socket necessary I don't think -- the adjusters look pretty accessible based on pictures. A bent set of feeler gauges is a good idea but I've got a straight set I can just bend if needed.

Definitely not gonna spend $70 on a tool because I think cheaper options will work.

JOD: Fair point about the torque wrench accuracy. Putting the crows foot on at 90 deg to the wrench handle should have a minimal effect on the torque applied but it's probably not worth it, you're right.

A deep socket and vise-grips does sound like a good workaround if some of the nuts can't be accessed easily w/ a box wrench.
 
With a crow's foot on the torque wrench, you will be applying MORE torque than what is registered.
Not huge, but in that direction. How oily the threads are will change things , also.
An inch lb torque wrench should be more accurate to set or read.
But what is this torque? It's a 10 pound weight at the end of a 1 foot lever. That's all.
A common wrench of the size you need would need 15 lbs or so at it's end. And 20+ when grabbing it in the middle, as you normally would do. This job normally is done by feel.
 
Yes, but I haven't developed that feel
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I was planning to use my beam style wrench which should be accurate enough at the low end. I realize it doesn't matter that much and if the answer is just to forget it and use an end wrench (and it sounds like that is the answer) then that's what I'll do.
 
There are different techniques to tightening those little lock nuts.
One is to allow some turning of the actual screw when you tighten the lock nut. It will tighten and reduce the clearance, but this is readily anticipated and compensated for.
 
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