This is the tool referred to above. It's about $15. Some techs love it. I personally don't care for it at all.
Valve Adjustment at 61k miles?
- Thread starter mosaud1998
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The tool is available on Amazon. Compare prices if you are going to buy one. Some want too much for it.
I had a 1976 Plymouth Volare with the 225 straight slant 6 cylinder with solid lifters that I bought new and changed the oil often like about every 3 K or sooner. You could hear the valves telling you when the oil needed changed. That thing needed the valves adjusted about every 10 K miles. Engine designers have improved the qualities of the metals used so solid lifters do not have to be adjusted anywhere near as often as they use to. I use to do them every summer and replace the valve-cover gasket with a new one and change the oil right after I did them every time.
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I had a 1986 Civic where adjustment was called for every 30,000 miles. The procedure was in the owner's manual. A 4 cylinder with screw adjusters is very easy to adjust. Mostly you have to worry whether the valve cover gasket will seal properly or there will be an oil leak.
Initial wear can be significant. After that first adjustment it tends to be stable for a long time.
Initial wear can be significant. After that first adjustment it tends to be stable for a long time.
So, I guess this is just a Honda thing? I never had to do valve adjustments on my Toyota Camry.
Actually, for the early years the Honda 2.4 Liter had the exhaust towards the rear, and then for later years the exhaust is towards the front. So be sure you know what side of the engine the air intake is plumbed into, and what side the exhaust connects to. They actually do differ depending on the year.
I'm talking about the EarthDreams (??) Honda Accord, which I think came-in in 2013... and I believe was the same until at least 2017.... mebe 2018. At least I think it was the same. In 2017 when I bought my Mazda6 - I noted that both the Accord of that same year and my Mazda - had direct injection... (without a back-up of port injection).... So I figured that 'cause the Mazda had the intake around the front - it'd be easier to de-coke the intake valves. For the Honda, I figured it would be an engine-out proposition 'cuz the intakes were at the firewall. NOT to say, though, that the Accords are/were suffering any intake valve build-up. I KNOW the Mazda's are not, generally.
Now I know we are talking about valve adjustments, not de-coking the intakes... My point only was that I thought the Accord's exhausts are around the back-side.
There are numerous post on the "Honda CR-V forum" about upgrading the battery to a 24F or at least a 35N. The battery tray and cover from a 2013 Odyssey bolts up to a CR-V and provides a larger tray for the larger battery. Advance Auto carries the 24F battery.
Some say the way Honda cuts back on charge to reduce load on the alternator to get better MPGs and the way they load it down wears out batteries fast, and the larger batteries hold up longer to that abuse.
I do not know if the Odyssey tray will bolt up to an Accord. If I owned an Accord I would check the Accord forums.
The Honda part number for the Odyssey box tray is 31521-TK8-A00 and Bernardi wants $10.15 for it.
The Honda part number for the Odyssey battery cover is 31531-TK8-A00 and Bernardi wants $12.04 for it.
There are several other online Honda stores and some may charge a little less, but check the shipping charges to see if the over-all total is lower.
I just put the EP-35 battery on the battery holder. I threw the tray away
I personally wouldn't worry about a valve adjustment until 100K on the K24. Most never have the service done and live long happy lives, that isn't a reason NOT to have it done but rather suggests that you should be fine without having the service done at a mere 61K miles.
Honda only says to have it done if they are noisy, go by that recommendation.
I had my 2006 K24 adjusted at 100K miles.
Honda only says to have it done if they are noisy, go by that recommendation.
I had my 2006 K24 adjusted at 100K miles.
On my 2016 CR-V with the K24W Earthdreams the injector actually sprays on the back side of the intake for a brief part of the time that it sprays, and the way the valve is activated is designed to cause the valve to rotate so all of the back of it gets spray on it sometime.
That is a brilliant way of keeping the build-up on the valves down. It seems to work... from what I can gather.
Yeah when I take mine in for any type of service, usually an oil change and their 'complimentary' multi-point inspection, I make it a point to tell them all I have done myself that isn't in their system. Close to 1 yr. ago they did inform me that the battery failed their test, which I didn't doubt at all. It was the OEM that was about 6.5 yrs. old and I could tell by the onboard charge graph it was likely fading. The replacement wasn't cheap, but it's another OEM with quite good long term coverage, so I'll take that over the typical short lived type sold in most auto parts stores.
It is called book time.
I did our '05 CRV at 105k miles along with spark plug change. Several of the exhaust valves were to the tight side of spec and the same with some intake on the loose side of spec. I adjusted all appropriately and the plugs still looked pretty good. Now with 135k miles and I don't think I'll touch any of this again on this very reliable vehicle.
Was Uncle Fester there turning you upside down trying to drain your pockets? 
A decent service department would have tested the battery and told you what the results were. I didn’t see that on that sheet.
Back in the day I found adjusting the valves one of the more DIY jobs on my 1975 Civic, 1981, 1985, 1988 Accords.
I'd adjust with two feelers. For instance if the spec is 0.005-0.007 I'd adjust until the 005 went through freely and the 007 not at all.
I'd adjust with two feelers. For instance if the spec is 0.005-0.007 I'd adjust until the 005 went through freely and the 007 not at all.
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