He probably did just what he said.
A few were a bit tight or loose.
A few were a bit tight or loose.
Valve Adj 2005 2.4L Accord
- Thread starter buster
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I guess buster is keeping this car.
My 1965 beetle that I drive on fairweather days often gets valve adjustments/inspected 1 a month. I typically never touch the adjuster screw.
I like to keep on top of things when it comes to maintenance
On many occasions I find very little to no shift in valve lash on many hondas. Even after 10yrs of service I've seen many that are still within spec.
Always good to check though.
I like to keep on top of things when it comes to maintenance
On many occasions I find very little to no shift in valve lash on many hondas. Even after 10yrs of service I've seen many that are still within spec.
Always good to check though.
My Subaru's clearances increased by 0.001 after 30,000 miles on mostly 5w20. I did half the job one day, adjusting them a bit on the tight side of spec, and the engine idled rough. After doing the other side the same, it was back to smooth idle. I think it can affect emissions if one clearance is off. Too tight is definitely bad for valve cooling.
Q.
Old VWs were air cooled and had problems with valves. They could tighten up and burn. VW changed the heads and rocker shaft studs, and a few other things.
The newer air cooled ones were a lot better than the old ones.
They [along with older BMW horizontally opposed motorcycle engines], were the worst for needing attention to valve adjustments.
The newer air cooled ones were a lot better than the old ones.
They [along with older BMW horizontally opposed motorcycle engines], were the worst for needing attention to valve adjustments.
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Old VWs were air cooled and had problems with valves. They could tighten up and burn. VW changed the heads and rocker shaft studs, and a few other things.
The newer air cooled ones were a lot better than the old ones.
They [along with older BMW horizontally opposed motorcycle engines], were the worst for needing attention to valve adjustments.
Yes, I concur with your understanding RE: air-cooled heads are notorious for burning if they exhibits high thermal stress (load).
It's not meant to be used that way so at the end I would say that liquid-cooled engines are much better in that regards.
Regardless of what type of engine configurations, you still need to check/perform regular valve adjustments/checks to ensure that they are within specifications.
Q.
Old VWs were air cooled and had problems with valves. They could tighten up and burn. VW changed the heads and rocker shaft studs, and a few other things.
The newer air cooled ones were a lot better than the old ones.
They [along with older BMW horizontally opposed motorcycle engines], were the worst for needing attention to valve adjustments.
Yes, I concur with your understanding RE: air-cooled heads are notorious for burning if they exhibits high thermal stress (load).
It's not meant to be used that way so at the end I would say that liquid-cooled engines are much better in that regards.
Regardless of what type of engine configurations, you still need to check/perform regular valve adjustments/checks to ensure that they are within specifications.
Q.
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Old VWs were air cooled and had problems with valves. They could tighten up and burn. VW changed the heads and rocker shaft studs, and a few other things.
The newer air cooled ones were a lot better than the old ones.
A tad off topic:
Late Type 1 beetle went hydraulic lifters so they no longer needed adjustements. The type4 buses went hydraulic aswell. Those have got to be one of the worst designed hydraulic lifters made. They constantly varnished and did not pump up after years of service.
For the flat tappet motors the exhaust valves would burn when they got tight. I run ZERO lash with chromoly pushrods (not aluminum) and seldom ever touch my valve adjustments.
Please note the aircooled VW is one of the longest pushrod engines in the world. Things move around in those primitive things. I can spin upto 8500+ rpms so this is why I check my valve lash. Overhead cams are a joke for high rpms but if you have a long pushrod motor that requires alot of spring pressure and proper geometry to prevent valve float and valve bounce.
Old VWs were air cooled and had problems with valves. They could tighten up and burn. VW changed the heads and rocker shaft studs, and a few other things.
The newer air cooled ones were a lot better than the old ones.
A tad off topic:
Late Type 1 beetle went hydraulic lifters so they no longer needed adjustements. The type4 buses went hydraulic aswell. Those have got to be one of the worst designed hydraulic lifters made. They constantly varnished and did not pump up after years of service.
For the flat tappet motors the exhaust valves would burn when they got tight. I run ZERO lash with chromoly pushrods (not aluminum) and seldom ever touch my valve adjustments.
Please note the aircooled VW is one of the longest pushrod engines in the world. Things move around in those primitive things. I can spin upto 8500+ rpms so this is why I check my valve lash. Overhead cams are a joke for high rpms but if you have a long pushrod motor that requires alot of spring pressure and proper geometry to prevent valve float and valve bounce.
Just to echo on all the good postings so far:
(1) unless yours is fully hydraulically adjusted, otherwise, if your valves call for manual adjustments, please do so on a religious basis. Not hearing tappetty noise doesn't mean that your valves are in good situation and if they ever becomes too tight, they will burn and the fault is always on the owner's end, not the manufacturer's.
(2)I have never have any bad luck with manually adjustable valves (from Datsuns to Suzukis to Hondas, etc.) Only owners that are arrogant/ignorant not to do it on a regular basis would they ever exhibit burnouts or troubles down the road.
(3)Never heard of one single incident of CRV valves burned out even when doing light-towing (collapsable tent trailer around 1400lbs). Whoever "claimed" to have valve burnouts on a water-cooled manually adjustable engines are mostly fall under point (2) of my observations, and not worth spreading the word like urban legends...
Q.
(1) unless yours is fully hydraulically adjusted, otherwise, if your valves call for manual adjustments, please do so on a religious basis. Not hearing tappetty noise doesn't mean that your valves are in good situation and if they ever becomes too tight, they will burn and the fault is always on the owner's end, not the manufacturer's.
(2)I have never have any bad luck with manually adjustable valves (from Datsuns to Suzukis to Hondas, etc.) Only owners that are arrogant/ignorant not to do it on a regular basis would they ever exhibit burnouts or troubles down the road.
(3)Never heard of one single incident of CRV valves burned out even when doing light-towing (collapsable tent trailer around 1400lbs). Whoever "claimed" to have valve burnouts on a water-cooled manually adjustable engines are mostly fall under point (2) of my observations, and not worth spreading the word like urban legends...
Q.
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