Value of occassional starts on parked/stored cars?

[addyguy]

I know this has been covered here a million times, but I still don't entirely believe the logic behind it.

If you have to park or store a vehicle for an extended period of time, the advice usually given is don't start the car periodically, as short periods of combustion produce condensation that are harmful.

When you park a car, the oil in the engine drains off all the parts and into the pan. I know there is still a film of oil on the parts, but it is very little oil, and given enough time, even that little bit of oil will gravitate off the parts, leaving them for all intents, 'dry'.

However, when you start a car, oil is circulated around the engine over all the parts and seals. I would think that the benefit of coating metal parts in a nice oily cover and keeping them 'lubed' would outweight a bit of condensation geting in with the oil - the oil coating will protect the parts from any moisture.

But, if you don't circulate oil around the parts, they get 'dry-ish', and moisture in the air gets in and can cause small amounts of rust and sticking. No, you're not getting combustion condensation, but there isa still moisture in regular air, and it does get in.

Reason I bring this up is I am being forced to park my Tribute for the next 3-4 months as it needs extensive work that I just can't afford, so it will be parked in my outdorr spot, not moving for that time. It has a sump full of AFE 0W-20 in with 6k miles on it, and AFE is a very thin oil that doesn't have much coating ability to it.

I have half a quart of a cheap oil stabilizer I bought. I'm thinking of adding it to the sump, and running the car a couple of times for 2-3 mins to circulate it around the engine and 'coat' the parts better than AFE can, and ALSO to add TBN to the oil to protect against corrosion.

Thoughts on this topic/situation?

 

[SteveSRT8]

I worked for years as a mechanic for a gentleman with a HUGE car collection.

His one ironclad rule was NEVER start the cars unless you were prepared to drive it around for at least 20-30 minutes minimum.

Where and how you store it is huge. Be cautious.

 

[raffy]

It might be better to start it and either drive it for 20 minutes or more or let it idle for that long till it gets up to operating temperature. That should eliminate condensation and also circulate the oil. I don't think you need an oil stabilizer; if I were you I would get a fuel stabilizer and add that to your gas, since it will be sitting around for several months.

 

[Dave Sherman]

I wouldn't start it unless you plan to drive it. Don't forget to disconnect the battery, lest it go dead in that time. Put a trickle charger on it occasionally. Since you'll be storing it outdoors, I'd be more worried about rodents making nests or chewing on wires.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8


His one ironclad rule was NEVER start the cars unless you were prepared to drive it around for at least 20-30 minutes minimum.



+1 I've parked vehicles I've owned over the years for sometimes several months at a time. They always had fuel stabilizer, MMO in the gas, and a full tank of gas. I never had a problem not starting them, and if I did start them I made sure I drove at least 30 minutes if not longer. Condensation and fuel dilution is not good, running an engine a few minutes causes it.

 

[Win]

3-4 months is nothing.

Other than disconnecting the battery, and overinflating the tires to minimize flat spotting, I wouldn't worry about it.

However, being outdoors, make sure rodents and vermin don't get under the hood. They can do a lot of damage in a hurry.

You might want to consider renting some indoor storage space.

 

[SS1970chrysler]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8


His one ironclad rule was NEVER start the cars unless you were prepared to drive it around for at least 20-30 minutes minimum.



+1 I've parked vehicles I've owned over the years for sometimes several months at a time. They always had fuel stabilizer, MMO in the gas, and a full tank of gas. I never had a problem not starting them, and if I did start them I made sure I drove at least 30 minutes if not longer. Condensation and fuel dilution is not good, running an engine a few minutes causes it.


Agreed.

 

[Maxima97]

You need to start the engine periodically. The moving parts need oil between. Under high contact, two metal part might cold fusion together which is not good. Let the oil diluted with fule cause you are going to change it anyway.

 

[eljefino]

Dip a bolt in motor oil (heck-- AFE 0w20) and put it in a tupperware. Three months later it won't be corroded and will still be oily.

Think of all the collector cars that are parked all winter... or sno-cats parked all summer. They do okay.

Your question boils down to, is your situation radically different from everyone elses because of your "runny" 0w20. No.

 

[Artem]

Originally Posted By: Win
3-4 months is nothing.


x2. How often do you plan to start the engine up to lubricate things? Once a week? Every two weeks? Once a month?

I think the excess wear caused by the 4 "dry" starts (1x a month for 4 months) is worse then finally starting the engine when you're done with the repairs and she's good to go.

I would pull the spark plugs, or disconnect the fuel injector connections and crank the engine for 5-10 seconds before starting it up when it's ready to hit the road again.

At the end of the day though, even if you don't do anything, don't add any additives and simple start the engine when it's ready to drive, any extra wear caused by the "dry" start will be so small that you'll only take off a few miles worth of life off the engine in a worst case scenario. How long do you plan on keeping the car anyway?

 

[NateDN10]

I was going to say exactly what eljefino just said.

In a few months, the engine will still have a thin coat of oil everywhere, plenty to not allow corrosion. And since that is the case, you gain nothing from starting it up.

 

[jimbrewer]

Check your manual. It probably prescribes an oil change before long term storage. Since you have 6K on the oil anyway, you probably ought to go ahead and do that.

 

[addyguy]

Appreciate the responses. It's an awkward situation, one I have little control over, so whatever I do will be imperfect...

The alternator has quit on the car, and it needs brakes and front-end work. I had it towed the other night and dumped in my condo parking spot.

As of now, battery is dead, but I'm planning on picking up a trickle charger and hooking it to the battery. Car will be able to start and run, but not for long periods.

Also, it only has a tiny amount of gas in it, less than an 1/8th of a tank. On Thursday or Friday I'm planning on using my gas can and putting 5L or so of gas into it with some fuel stabilizer in it to protect the fuel system.

I was planning on charging the battery for a while, putting the gas and stabilizer in it, and putting the OS in the oil, then starting and running it for 5 mins or so to circulate stuff, and then leaving it and maybe starting it once a month just to keep stuff circulating.

When I do get the money together and fix it, it will get an oil change before it goes back to regular service.

 

[Danh]

Originally Posted By: addyguy
Appreciate the responses. It's an awkward situation, one I have little control over, so whatever I do will be imperfect...

The alternator has quit on the car, and it needs brakes and front-end work. I had it towed the other night and dumped in my condo parking spot.

As of now, battery is dead, but I'm planning on picking up a trickle charger and hooking it to the battery. Car will be able to start and run, but not for long periods.

Also, it only has a tiny amount of gas in it, less than an 1/8th of a tank. On Thursday or Friday I'm planning on using my gas can and putting 5L or so of gas into it with some fuel stabilizer in it to protect the fuel system.

I was planning on charging the battery for a while, putting the gas and stabilizer in it, and putting the OS in the oil, then starting and running it for 5 mins or so to circulate stuff, and then leaving it and maybe starting it once a month just to keep stuff circulating.

When I do get the money together and fix it, it will get an oil change before it goes back to regular service.


IIRC, the right front driveshaft has to be removed to replace the alternator, which makes it a bigger deal than it should be. I regularly store a car for 6 months in the winter; I don't touch it during that period so I don't think 3 or 4 months should be a problem for you. I suppose it wouldn't be a bad idea to try to run it for 30 minutes to circulate gas stabilizer, but I don't think it's necessary.

One thing you could do is roll it a foot or so every month or so to place the load on a different part of the tires and bearings, but even this is optional.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: Maxima97
You need to start the engine periodically. The moving parts need oil between. Under high contact, two metal part might cold fusion together which is not good. Let the oil diluted with fule cause you are going to change it anyway.


No they won't, that's complete and utter baloney. I've stored engines for YEARS and had no issues with priming the oil pump and then firing it up.

I've torn into boat engines that have sat for a decade and still had an oil film on everything.

 

[JHZR2]

What good is turning it on if the tires are flatspotted, rotors rusted and wheel bearing grease all migrated to the bottom?

My biggest concern with a sitting car isnt the engine, it is the air conditioner. Those seals dry out, the oils migrate and stop acting like a barrier in the hoses, and the refrigerant leaks out.

If youre so concerned about oil coatings, go buy a pre-oiler, dont start the car.

But IMO you should really strive for 30+ miles, as close to non-stop as possible, around once a month to keep the AC on, fluids flowing, without the corrosives.

I dont buy that a ton of moisture will build up from sitting, or even from idling, but to me it is a waste, and doesnt get you where you need to be, which is ALL systems hot and flowing.

 

[Astro14]

I agree - don't start unless you're going to drive it until it warms up and runs warm for a while...

But, in lieu of starting, I will pull the plugs on the Packard, pour a few OZs of oil in each cylinder, and turn the engine over by hand (and yes, I can turn the straight 8 over by hand...roller cam...precision machine...) to keep the cylinder walls oiled...

 

[eagle23]

IMO putting any "oil stabilizer" in there is a huge mistake.

M1 can handle months of no movement all by itself. Pedestrian conventionals can do that, so M1 won't notice.

Looks like the experienced consensus is leave it alone, other than adding some extra fuel and fuel stabilizer, and keeping the battery charged. In this case, benign neglect is just fine.

 

[addyguy]

...not trying to start a fight here, just curious...

Oil stabilizer products, like the Canadian Tire on I'm thinking of using, and classic car oils, like Z-Rod, all say that they benefit stored vehicles by having more anti-corrosion additives than 'regular' oil....so a bit of this (half a quart) will help somewhat, won't it? It WILL boost the TBN of the oil, so that is good....?

 

[Quattro Pete]

If it's only 3-4 months, I wouldn't bother at all with any oil stabilizers.