Valentine's Tools

[nfs480]

My girlfriend has offered to buy me a toolset of my choice for valentine's day but I didn't know what i wanted. My number one problem when working on my car (a 1989 Honda Accord with 220k miles) is the fear of breaking stuff as i'm taking things apart. (Had to replace the thermostat housing when the heads of the bolts holding the thermostat in broke off).

I was wondering what tools you guys would recommend for extracting frozen and broken bolts as i'm planning on replacing struts myself this spring (have never replaced struts before). I'm sure they're going to be a pain to remove as i've been made aware that they are the originals from the factory in 1988.

Any advice you guys can give me would be very helpful.

 

[wavinwayne]

Can't recommend a tool, but sounds like you've got a good woman there. Hang on to her.

 

[oilcoholic]

Get you a good torque wrench. Before you start on the strut job, spray all the bolts and nuts with some good penetrating oil. I like PB Blaster but there are other good ones too. Look @ Craftsman Mechanics Tool Sets. A lot of times you can get these on sale @ Sears. Craftsman offers a Lifetime Warranty that is great.

Tip. If your bolts are frozen, you can always use a Dremel tool to cut the bolt, just make sure you can get access to the same grade new bolts. Also, once you get the nut started,sometimes you may need to tap the bolt out. You can tap the bolt out by loosening the nut all the way to the end of the threads and then tap the nut and the butt of the bolt at the same time. That way you will not "bugger" up the bolt threads. Once the bolt moves, take the nut off then tap the bolt out with a punch. good luck & KEEP THE GIRL!

 

[Scienceman]

Originally Posted By: wavinwayne
Can't recommend a tool, but sounds like you've got a good woman there. Hang on to her.


+1

 

[AcuraTech]

When bolts break, you have two choices. Bolt extractors (not much use when the bolt is corroded/seized/frozen) or drill it out. When a bolt is so rusty that it breaks off penetrating oil is not of much use.

The last and final option (which often comes up) is to melt out the remainder of the bolt with an oxyacetylene torch.

Rust never sleeps.

 

[nfs480]

So it sounds like the best way to go would be to get a quality drill and some quality drill bits to remove the seized bolts if they break. Any tips on what to look for in a drill and quality bits?

EDIT: I do already own a torque wrench, it has come in handy many times.

 

[eljefino]

Good news is the structural fasteners on the struts will be a better grade steel and are VERY unlikely to snap. (OTOH you probably had steel bolts in aluminum for the thermostat, a mismatch that causes corrosion.)

I would get a good cheater bar and some pipe though. The longer the bar, the less side-to-side force is applied compared to rotational torque. This makes it less likely to shear stuff clean off. (But if it's going to happen it still will.)

 

[morris]

i have two radio controled trucks, some times the head of small 3mm dia screws breaks off. i have automatic center punch from sears. if you put it at the outside dia and push it hammers the screw not un like impact wrench, after a few hits the screw is loosed so a pair of pliers will finish the job.

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

Several answers for your questions:

1) Use Kroil or a homemade solution of Acetone/ATF fluid at a 1:1 ratio for the best penetrant to break the bolts loose.

2) Try putting some heat on the bolt first. A good MAP torch is your best friend if you do not have a Oxy/Acet torch.

3) If the bolt is broken off flush or below the surface, use a multi-splined screw extractor. They are a LOT better than a straight flute or normal spiral flute extractor. I happen to use this set from Snap-on but the same style is also sold by Hanson/Irwin as individual pieces.

Snap-on multi-spline extractor

4) If the bolt is snapped off but still exposed enough to grab, this style of bolt extractor will usually work well:

Hanson bolt extractor

5) If you have a welder, and enough of the bolt is exposed, weld a nut to the stub and use it to remove the stud that is left

6) Worst case is to be very careful, center punch the bolt, drill it out to the inner diameter and tap out the threads.

I have cut bolts out with a Oxy/Acet torch but that is in VERY limited cases. If you are working with cast iron and a steel bolt, it can be done if you are very careful. Other than that single case, you will generally ruin a LOT more than you will fix.

There are other things that can be done if the above doesn't work but they are best left to someone that does it for a living. All of them involve welding, drilling and tapping

Edit: For drill bits, by the best American made HSS bits that you can afford. They will last a LONG time if you drill at a slow speed and use drill/tap oil to prevent burning the tip. A low speed drill turning 200 to 250 rpm will cut faster than you might think.

 

[nfs480]

Thanks for the ideas, that's exactly the kind of stuff i've been looking for. Are there any good how-to's/explanations for drilling and tapping bolts and when that method should/shouldn't be used?

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

I have seen very few bolts that wouldn't come out fairly easy after the head was snapped off. This will usually release the tension on the bolt to allow it to back out if you use a good penetrant and then drill it for one of the multi-spline extractors. Each extractor will have the drill size that is required to use it printed on the surface of the extractor. Drill to the depth of the extractor, start the extractor in the hole (left hand thread) and the remainder of the bolt should back out.

If you use a left handed drill bit, the bolt might back out of the hole while being drilled and save you some time. The tools I noted above are not cheap but will last a lifetime (the Snap-on's anyway) and will always be needed if you work on old rusty cars and machinery.

I will say one other thing about any set of extractors. If you buy the long straight or spiral extractors and you pay for a cheap set, be prepared for a lot of pain. You will understand why when the first one breaks off down in the hole.....

If that does happen to you, take a good, hard punch and break the rest of the extractor into pieces that can be removed and then go buy a good set...

Edit: If you have any friends that work in a machine shop, aviation, farm equipment or a 4x4 shop, they will be used to dealing with the problem and can get you started in the right direction. This is one of those things that a little help from someone can go a long way.

 

[labman]

I have seen very few bolts that weren't easier to get out before you break them off. Most bolts won't move due to rust, not from being excessively tight. Often applying a little penetrating oil and a hammer will be all it takes to avoid the problem. Breaking off a few so you know how it feels helps. That is called experience, or the school of hard knocks. So once you know when a longer pipe becomes the problem, not the answer, work it over good. If it still doesn't come, heat and quench it. Repeat as needed.

Drilling a hole for a screw extractor subjects the bolt to heat and vibration loosening it. A welder is a good source of heat too. A hammer or a torch do so quicker. They never break off in the bolt.