Vagetable based engine oils better than synthetics

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Originally Posted By: A_Harman
This is an interesting experiment, kembro2012.
Definitely out-of-the-box thinking.

Some simple suggestions:
Have you done any initial bench tests, such as pouring a quart of Canola into three quarts of RT6 to see if it mixes and stays mixed?

Maybe you could do a series of mixes ranging from 10% to 50% Canola and send them out for VOA so that you know what viscosity you have before pouring it into your engine.

It would be good to get TBN, TAN, Oxidation, and Nitration numbers with the VOA's so that you are not shocked when you get an Oxidation number of 110 on your first UOA.

Supplement the zddp to keep it at the SN max of 800ppm Phos when you get to the 50% mix. RT6 has ~1200ppm Phos, so you would get down to 600 in a 50/50 mix.


I'm doing what I can to keep costs down while still providing useful data, so a series of VOAs is probably not going to happen, though I do intend to get a VOA on the canola I decide to use for the 25% and 50% experiments. I haven't run T6 straight in this engine and will not be doing so for reasons already stated (to summarize, I'm not running a 40 weight in an engine notorious for clogged piston oil return holes, where thinner is better), so I won't be able to provide baseline numbers for a 5k or longer run with straight T6. I'm using Canola very conservatively as a top-off for my current OCI (currently at 6.25%, not intending to exceed 10%), so that will be as close to a baseline OUA as I'll be able to get. If things go well enough with this test, I would consider picking up a beater to repeat this experiment, with a proper baseline UOA from the latter of two consecutive OCIs with straight T6.

I do like the idea of the series of VOAs, but it's just not in the budget. I intend to get TBN on all samples I send in and may consider the others on the final samples for the 25% and 50% tests, as well.

The advice to suppliment the zddp is generally good advice, I feel, but it is contrary to the spirit and goal of this experiment, so I will not be ding that initially. One of the goals here is determine whether canola is a viable way to add esters into an off the shelf oil without altering the additive pack in that oil (diluting, of course, bot otherwise not altering). I'm not super attached to this engine, so if things go south, no big deal.

The oil had darkened slightly in the 160 miles before I topped off with canola and has not darkened noticeably in the 200 miles I've driven since then, so I'm going to attribute the initial darkening to the T6 breaking up and dissolving what varnish was left after my last 2 short OCIs with PP and PU+MMO at this point. Obviously I can't be sure without a chemical analysis, but oxidation does not appear to be as severe of an issue as one might think, and I do drive hard, with coolant temps in the 195-205 range for 20-40min runs, so I know I'm getting the oil temps up into the 190F range, as well. On a hotter-running engine, it's quite possible that oxidation may be more severe of an issue. Based solely on coloration, so it's not the most scientific of tests, but canola does darken rapidly when it oxidizes.

I haven't tested full-scale mixing, but I did test 2oz of T6 with several drops of canola, 1.5ox of T6 with 1/2oz of canola, and 1oz to 1oz, for small-scale simulation of my top-off, 25%, and 50% scenarios. I mixed the oils cold and let them sit for a day, then heated them in a small (on-egg sized) throw-away pan, constantly moving the oil and monitoring temperatures, first heating to 180F, then 190F, then 200F, then 220F (yes, I skipped 210F, I got impatient) holding each sample at those temperatures for 5 minutes, then returning the samples to their containers for a full day between tests (one temperature tested per day) and saw no separation. I feel like I should repeat these tests before my next OCI so I can provide pics and better details. I wasn't planning on getting this detailed initially, or I would have started off that way.
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Curious what Canola Oil will do combating varnish. Depending what you find I'd be happy to dump my bottle of "Pure Wesson Canola Oil" in the old Camry's sump for 1k as a cleaner.


Can't hurt, honestly, over the course of 1k. Since, last I checked, you had the Camry running decent, definitely hold off until I get some results, or at least wait until the last 1k of my 25% run and run it alongside me
smile.gif
 
Sorry if I read too much into your posts, I've been reading too many ARX threads and I think seeing all the personal attacks flying around those threads has got me on edge.
laugh.gif


As I mentioned at the end of my last reply to you, I would definitely be interested in hearing about one of the products you've worked on, as I'll be looking for something else to test after this experiment. I figure a "legit" veggie-based PCMO would make an interesting comparison/contrast for the frankenblends I am testing here.
 
Originally Posted By: KeMBro2012
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
This paper makes a Canola based motor oil look very promising.
The reduction in friction looks unreal and the VI is quite high.
The measured improvement in fuel economy as well as reductions in emissions are huge potential benefits.
I wonder why no botique maker has produced one?
Are the adds required to make the oil work in an engine simply too expensive?
Would this stuff be compatible with existing seal and gasket materials?


A company in Michigan did (does?) make one, but stores refused to stock it since it didn't have an API certification, which makes sense since the American Petroleum Institute doesn't certify veggie oils.


API licenses oil blenders to produce oils meeting a given API spec.
It does not certify these oils.
Lack of API licensing does not seem to have hurt RLI, Red Line or Amsoil.
Stores don't generally stock these oils either, not because they're not API licensed, but because they're too expensive.
 
How real are the fuel economy improvements claimed in the Purdue paper?
If one could see a 5% improvement over a 5K OCI, one could break even on a significantly more expensive motor oil, while enjoying the benefits of a high natural VI as well as reduced friction, assuming that those claims are real.
The potential of a canola oil basestock motor oil seems significant.
 
Originally Posted By: stenerson
I always heard the more expensive ester based synthetics were plant based?



They are. Renewable Lubricants is a bio-ester with fantastic specifications.
 
Originally Posted By: jrustles
Using vegetable oil in an engine will coat your internals with a plastic like sludge within a couple thousand... dont ask how i would know


That was my first reaction when I first heard about it.
Please tell us more about it. What oil, what happened?
 
Originally Posted By: dparm
Originally Posted By: stenerson
I always heard the more expensive ester based synthetics were plant based?



They are. Renewable Lubricants is a bio-ester with fantastic specifications.


Sounds like Lubriguard uses bio ester oils too.
 
Originally Posted By: KeMBro2012

I haven't tested full-scale mixing, but I did test 2oz of T6 with several drops of canola, 1.5ox of T6 with 1/2oz of canola, and 1oz to 1oz, for small-scale simulation of my top-off, 25%, and 50% scenarios. I mixed the oils cold and let them sit for a day, then heated them in a small (on-egg sized) throw-away pan, constantly moving the oil and monitoring temperatures, first heating to 180F, then 190F, then 200F, then 220F (yes, I skipped 210F, I got impatient) holding each sample at those temperatures for 5 minutes, then returning the samples to their containers for a full day between tests (one temperature tested per day) and saw no separation. I feel like I should repeat these tests before my next OCI so I can provide pics and better details. I wasn't planning on getting this detailed initially, or I would have started off that way.


Have you considered 400F oven test? This is the temp corolla pistons reach.
 
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek


Sounds like Lubriguard uses bio ester oils too.


Sorry, I meant lubegard: http://www.lubegard.com/LXE.aspx

Quote:
LXE Technology is bio-based, and composed of the fatty acid of a high erucic acid containing seed oil esterified with an expensive and rare alcohol. The process demands that we use the highest purity essential oils, with long fatty chain triglyceride ester groups and with little or no unsaturation (which if present, would lead to oxidative instability).
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
How real are the fuel economy improvements claimed in the Purdue paper?
If one could see a 5% improvement over a 5K OCI, one could break even on a significantly more expensive motor oil, while enjoying the benefits of a high natural VI as well as reduced friction, assuming that those claims are real.
The potential of a canola oil basestock motor oil seems significant.


Fortunately, I should be able to answer that! I just did a full tuneup, including cleaning my MAF and air filter (which was killing me!!!) so I'll have a baseline as soon as my next fillup.
 
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
Originally Posted By: KeMBro2012

I haven't tested full-scale mixing, but I did test 2oz of T6 with several drops of canola, 1.5ox of T6 with 1/2oz of canola, and 1oz to 1oz, for small-scale simulation of my top-off, 25%, and 50% scenarios. I mixed the oils cold and let them sit for a day, then heated them in a small (on-egg sized) throw-away pan, constantly moving the oil and monitoring temperatures, first heating to 180F, then 190F, then 200F, then 220F (yes, I skipped 210F, I got impatient) holding each sample at those temperatures for 5 minutes, then returning the samples to their containers for a full day between tests (one temperature tested per day) and saw no separation. I feel like I should repeat these tests before my next OCI so I can provide pics and better details. I wasn't planning on getting this detailed initially, or I would have started off that way.


Have you considered 400F oven test? This is the temp corolla pistons reach.


Good call. I'll test 100%, 50%, 25%, and 10% in aluminum cups. Can't do it until just before my next OCI, tho, since I don't have any spare T6. I'll test both partially filled cups and barely-coated cups. Thanks for that idea!
 
Quote:
Sounds like Lubriguard uses bio ester oils too.


Indeed they do. Instead of Canola oil (which is low in Erucic acd), they use a GM, high Erucic acid Rapeseed oil. They remove the Erucic acid from the rapeseed oil. Synthesizing is done by reacting the resulting Erucic acid with a specialty alcohol to form a linear liquid wax ester. It's molecular structure is very similar to sperm whale oil.

This is just one of the components in LubeGard.
 
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Originally Posted By: jrustles
Using vegetable oil in an engine will coat your internals with a plastic like sludge within a couple thousand... dont ask how i would know

After some research, it appears the common vegetable oils have very poor oxidative stability. Coconut oil though is very stable, in its raw form and protects very well. But it has a 25 degree Celcius melting point


"vegetable" oils are actually anything but "vegetable" in the common parlance. Seeds and grains, some fruits like olives ...not many carrot oils out there

Linoleum is pretty well the end oxidation product of linseed oil with heat and exposure to oxygen, which is always my first reaction to any oil in a warm, oxidative environment...pretty much why no oil that forms a crust around the cap in the pantry ends up in my pantry.
 
This will be interesting to see, as will your UOA results.
I think you've done your homework and are taking a cautious approach.
 
While you gathering data, you might want to drop a sample of your mixed ratios in the fridge and freezer to eyeball what happens to viscosity. Not sure if you can standardize some sort of test at home to compare to stock rotella or not. drain time of a known volume through a small funnel or something? Time to pour down a 45* slab? Capture test on camera phone and get a time off that?
 
Another bench top test might be to get a couple of test vials you can fit one of those battery powered coffee drink stirrers into. Put one fluid ounce of straight T6 and your mix in each one. Then add a drop or two of water and mix with stirrer for 30 or 60 secs. Remeasure volume to see if any foaming occurs differently between samples. Might try that at a couple of temps? I guess you could just shake a closed vial for a given time as well.
 
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Originally Posted By: jrustles
Using vegetable oil in an engine will coat your internals with a plastic like sludge within a couple thousand... dont ask how i would know


Let me guess. You've got an enameled baking dish that you cook a lot of roast potatoes in, and you don't wash it up properly so it's got a baked on brownish coating.
grin.gif


So on a serious note, this is something I've often wondered about. In a post apocalyptic world, when the aliens have destroyed all the motor oil, and the brain sucking zombies are taking over the city, and I need to escape quickly but I've just drained my motor oil. Would I be better of to fill with peanut oil or extra virgin olive, if they were the only options I had. Also, if I was out of Liqui-Moly MoS, would bacon fat be a suitable replacement to satisfy my OCD craving for using an oil additive. Oh when I said serious question, I lied.
cool.gif
 
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Originally Posted By: uart
Originally Posted By: jrustles
Using vegetable oil in an engine will coat your internals with a plastic like sludge within a couple thousand... dont ask how i would know


Let me guess. You've got an enameled baking dish that you cook a lot of roast potatoes in, and you don't wash it up properly so it's got a baked on brownish coating.
grin.gif


So on a serious note, this is something I've often wondered about. In a post apocalyptic world, when the aliens have destroyed all the motor oil, and the brain sucking zombies are taking over the city, and I need to escape quickly but I've just drained my motor oil. Would I be better of to fill with peanut oil or extra virgin olive, if they were the only options I had. Also, if I was out of Liqui-Moly MoS, would bacon fat be a suitable replacement to satisfy my OCD craving for using an oil additive. Oh when I said serious question, I lied.
cool.gif



I'd run the peanut straight, but if I didn't have enough peanut, I'd run the EVOO and cut the "heathiness" with bacon fat additive, bringing it down to peanut oil "healthiness" levels.
 
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