Vagetable based engine oils better than synthetics

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If this is an experiment, then you should gather data on your materials and process, make a hypothesis based on previous results and then proceed. Ideally you you would have two or three base line uoa's of your engine with straight Rotella. You simply don't know what the voa for canola oil is until you have it tested. Maybe it has some small amount of Iron or something? I don't know. Flash point for Canola is usually pretty high for cooking oil, so that's good, but still the more you know before hand I think the better the process. I understand that it is money out of pocket, but this is science man!

This would make an awesome science fair project for someone in high school if you have kids.
 
Originally Posted By: 05LGTLtd
If this is an experiment, then you should gather data on your materials and process, make a hypothesis based on previous results and then proceed. Ideally you you would have two or three base line uoa's of your engine with straight Rotella. You simply don't know what the voa for canola oil is until you have it tested. Maybe it has some small amount of Iron or something? I don't know. Flash point for Canola is usually pretty high for cooking oil, so that's good, but still the more you know before hand I think the better the process. I understand that it is money out of pocket, but this is science man!

This would make an awesome science fair project for someone in high school if you have kids.


You raise interesting points and all will be taken into consideration before the experiment begins full-tilt. Unfortunately, driving less than 5k in a year means running Rotella straight for long enough to get 2 or 3 legit OUAs to set a baseline would probably also mean running a different formulation by the time I start adding canola, thereby invalidating the results anyway. It would also add 2-6 years to the experiment, depending on whether I did 2 or 3 OUAs and whether I ran the oil for 5k or 10k miles, or somewhere in between.

I know there are a lot of patient people on this forum, but I'd still rather not push it. If I had a 20 mile one way commute every day, it would totally be a different story.
 
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We'll see what my wallet looks like when I send in the first sample from this OCI (3k). If I can afford to have 2 samples processed without the wife jumping on me, I'll send the canola for a VOA.


Don't let something so insignificant, such as your wife deter you from completing something so significant like a UOA emperiment
 
I have a bunch of MS5K from last year's specials and a few jugs of G-Oil. What do you think of a 50/50 mix of G-Oil 5w30 and MS5K 5w30? What would be the flashpoint of the brew?
 
This paper makes a Canola based motor oil look very promising.
The reduction in friction looks unreal and the VI is quite high.
The measured improvement in fuel economy as well as reductions in emissions are huge potential benefits.
I wonder why no botique maker has produced one?
Are the adds required to make the oil work in an engine simply too expensive?
Would this stuff be compatible with existing seal and gasket materials?
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
This paper makes a Canola based motor oil look very promising.
The reduction in friction looks unreal and the VI is quite high.
The measured improvement in fuel economy as well as reductions in emissions are huge potential benefits.
I wonder why no botique maker has produced one?
Are the adds required to make the oil work in an engine simply too expensive?
Would this stuff be compatible with existing seal and gasket materials?


A company in Michigan did (does?) make one, but stores refused to stock it since it didn't have an API certification, which makes sense since the American Petroleum Institute doesn't certify veggie oils.
 
"Well, depending on what Blackstone has to say about my oil after 5k miles of topping off with canola, I'll consider thinning the T6 with a quart of canola instead M1 AFE next time. If Blackstone approves of a 5k run with that, I'll consider running it 50/50."

A gallon of Canola oil, cooking grade, runs around $10-$12 and it does not contain any additives so why would the ROI be anywhere near positive?

The Canola that is used is not cooking oil but an oil from genetically modified plants. Cooking oils have less oxidation stability. Oils from GM plants yields better oils for lubrication.

"I wonder why no botique maker has produced one?"

There are about three of us making these. Educating the public and trying to lower the cost are two issues.
 
Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Keep in mind that [current] vegetable based oils for MO's are not 100% vegetable base.

Base oils can be a mixture of many types of oils including vegetable based oils.

In many cases, a bio-synthetic oil is a mixture of Group IV and V oils, with the GroupV vegetable based oils being a "co-base."

In fact, the vegetable based oils (and some animal fats) are usually fractionated into their separate acids and alcohols, and then their acids are reacted with special alcohols to yield a vegetable-based ester of high purity.

Few vegetable oils can be used as lubricants in their raw state.


Some hydraulic oils or Food contact oils can be all vegetable base oils.
 
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Are the adds required to make the oil work in an engine simply too expensive?
Would this stuff be compatible with existing seal and gasket materials?


As I said above, some of the veggy oils are rather expensive which raises the per quart price but it is doable because we have done it. There are specific additive packages for veggy oils, but in my experience, most synthetic oil packages work very well. Generally speaking, one has to add some extra anti-oxidant's if you use a large percentage of veggy oils.

So right now, vegetable oils or their esters made from fractionated oils, are mostly used as co-base oils because of price.

Co-base: In other words, you take your favorite base oil and add other "co-base" oils to improve, say friction reduction and VI.

As far as seals and elatomer materials, no problem.
 
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On a side note, canola oil makes a great hand cleaner. Just rub you hands together with a tblspn or two of caonla oil to lift up all the grime then wash hands with dish soap. Really works well if your out of Gojo or just like simple solutions to everyday situations..
 
So molakule, from your last posts, and as a hypothetical in lighr of the thread...

Would the be better picking a highly additised synthetic, then diluting it back to "average" synthetic add levels with the Canola, rather than starting with an EC xW-30 ?

Your statement re economics makes sense, however, down here, Delvac 1 is $90/5 litres, M1 0W-40 $100, so a 30% cut with $3/L canola makes for a $60-65 oil change rather than a $90-$100.

Note "hypothetical"
 
Originally Posted By: MolaKule
The Canola that is used is not cooking oil but an oil from genetically modified plants. Cooking oils have less oxidation stability. Oils from GM plants yields better oils for lubrication.


Canola is made from GM rapeseed. I understand that you're involved in producing a canola-based motor oil, but I call into question your knowledge of your own product when you make statements like the above.

The canola used in cooking is further modified (refined) to supposedly not be toxic, though there is more than one study out there showing it to be one of the more toxic cooking oils on the market. Most of the stability of commercial canola is related to its oleic acid content rather than any genetic modifications to the plant itself. In fact, most industrial canola is simply oil that hasn't been refined enough for cooking use.

I've done my homework over the past few years that I've been tossing this idea around and I don't have a horse in this race as far as having a product to sell, so I have no reason to disseminate misinformation.
 
Using vegetable oil in an engine will coat your internals with a plastic like sludge within a couple thousand... dont ask how i would know

After some research, it appears the common vegetable oils have very poor oxidative stability. Coconut oil though is very stable, in its raw form and protects very well. But it has a 25 degree Celcius melting point
 
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Canola is made from GM rapeseed. I understand that you're involved in producing a canola-based motor oil, but I call into question your knowledge of your own product when you make statements like the above.


No, had you read my earlier post(s), I am involved with the development of vegetable-based and bio-synthetic lubricants which means any and all types of vegetable and other GroupV oils.

On this site, one has to start out with the basics and then later get into the details and maybe even add some chemistry.

Further transgenic varieties of brassic napus have produced better rapeseed varieties with lower Euracic acid content and higher oleic and linoleic acids. Currently, there are 10 different transgenic varieties of brassic napus

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In fact, most industrial canola is simply oil that hasn't been refined enough for cooking use.


The comment I made about cooking oil was to differentiate common cooking oil from that used in lubricants.

Some time ago there was this ridiculous Urban Legend/rumor going around about Canola's toxicity, but genetically modified rapeseed (Canola) has lower Euricic acid than rapeseed.

http://www.mayoclinic.com/health/canola-oil/AN01281

If you have something to add regarding vegatable-based lubricants and the formulation of those lubricants, please elucidate.
 
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Would the be better picking a highly additised synthetic, then diluting it back to "average" synthetic add levels with the Canola, rather than starting with an EC xW-30 ?



No, for many reasons but mostly wrt oxidation problems.
 
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Originally Posted By: MolaKule
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Canola is made from GM rapeseed. I understand that you're involved in producing a canola-based motor oil, but I call into question your knowledge of your own product when you make statements like the above.


No, had you read my earlier post(s), I am involved with the development of vegetable-based and bio-synthetic lubricants which means any and all types of vegetable and other GroupV oils.

On this site, one has to start out with the basics and then later get into the details and maybe even add some chemistry.

Further transgenic varieties of brassic napus have produced better rapeseed varieties with lower Euracic acid content and higher oleic and linoleic acids. Currently, there are 10 different transgenic varieties of brassic napus

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In fact, most industrial canola is simply oil that hasn't been refined enough for cooking use.


The comment I made about cooking oil was to differentiate common cooking oil from that used in lubricants.

Some time ago there was this ridiculous Urban Legend/rumor going around about Canola's toxicity, but genetically modified rapeseed (Canola) has lower Euricic acid than rapeseed.

http://www.mayoclinic.com/health/canola-oil/AN01281

If you have something to add regarding vegatable-based lubricants and the formulation of those lubricants, please elucidate.


The genetic modifications which make oil from the canola-modified strains of Brassica napus produce less erucic acid do so by stimulation the creation of oleic and linoleic acids. Common cooking grade canola is termed "50% oleic" referring to the ratio of oleic acid to other acids present in the oil, rather than the overall amount of oleic acid in the oil. Commonly available "industrial" canola is termed "75% oleic". This is the primary difference between chemically-extracted varieties of canola and the variance is caused by some of the oleic acid being removed by the additional refining, cooking, and bleaching done to chemically-extracted canola oil to remove the toxic hexane that was used to extract the oil form the seed and "enhance" the color of the oil for consumer use (much like yellow dye is used to enhance the color of butter, though the color doesn't affect the quality of the product so much as the perception of quality).

Cold-pressed canola does not introduce hexane into the oil, therefore does not require the same refining process. As a result, cold-pressed cooking-grade canola will commonly contain 75% or more oleic acid, putting it squarely in the realm of "industrial grade". In fact, when compared to "industrial" variants of chemically-extracted canola, "cooking-grade" cold-pressed canola is the preferable preferable industrial lubricant, due to the lack of hexane contamination.

I feel like you're making some unfounded assumptions about me, so allow me to correct them now; I may have joined a little over a year ago, but I've lurked much, much longer, and these forums are not my only exposure to the wonderful world of lubricants, or to the chemistry involved. Specifically, I am quite familiar with the synthesis of esters; mostly vinyl esters used in composites, but we may or may not have made our own air tool lube and mold release coatings with the same "chemistry set" in that shop.

So, why don't I whip up my own brew of esters to add to my oil? Simply put, because that's not the point if my experiment; the point is to determine whether off-the-shelf canola can be a viable source of mix-in esters for those who don't want to spend $100 for a sumpfull of an off-the-shelf ester-based oil, let the additive pack in an off-the-shelf ester-based motor oil battle it out with the additive pack in whatever host oil they choose, or drop $30 for a bottle of ARX.

Am I advocating this for anyone else's engine? No, I have no data to back it up at this point. That's the point of the experiment; to gather that data and present it here. Your word simply isn't going to be good enough here, and you've been here long enough to know that. Since you've stated that you have a horse in this race, your credibility is further placed in question. That said, I'm curious about your product, as I'll need something to move on to once my current experiment is done.
 
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Your word simply isn't going to be good enough here, and you've been here long enough to know that. Since you've stated that you have a horse in this race, your credibility is further placed in question. That said, I'm curious about your product, as I'll need something to move on to once my current experiment is done.


I think your experiment is interesting and I am sure everyone is eagerly awaiting your results.

I don't have a horse in this race and my credibility on this board is well established, so I think you're taking various comments too personal. It's your car, your wallet, and your Canola.

I am independant formulator and consultant who formulates lubricants for investment firms, startups, and other interests. I can make comments and not fear retribution from a corporate structure.
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My main goal since 2002 has been simply to educate people about lubricants and give as much non-IP, non-NDA data as possible. People can take my comments and agree or disagree, or agree to disagree,
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as I am not easily offended. I do not receive nor have ever received any compensation from this board or any of its sponsors.
 
This is an interesting experiment, kembro2012.
Definitely out-of-the-box thinking.

Some simple suggestions:
Have you done any initial bench tests, such as pouring a quart of Canola into three quarts of RT6 to see if it mixes and stays mixed?

Maybe you could do a series of mixes ranging from 10% to 50% Canola and send them out for VOA so that you know what viscosity you have before pouring it into your engine.

It would be good to get TBN, TAN, Oxidation, and Nitration numbers with the VOA's so that you are not shocked when you get an Oxidation number of 110 on your first UOA.

Supplement the zddp to keep it at the SN max of 800ppm Phos when you get to the 50% mix. RT6 has ~1200ppm Phos, so you would get down to 600 in a 50/50 mix.
 
Curious what Canola Oil will do combating varnish. Depending what you find I'd be happy to dump my bottle of "Pure Wesson Canola Oil" in the old Camry's sump for 1k as a cleaner.
 
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