I'm trying to track down and confirm a potential rear main seal leak. I bought a 1 oz bottle of Tracer Products LeakFinder leak detection dye for oil-based systems (Link) and added it to the engine oil. After cleaning the area really good with engine degreaser, letting it dry, and taking the car for a drive, I can see the area starting to darken as if some oil is seeping. However, when shining a UV LED flashlight that I bought from Amazon (Link) on the area, I don't see it glow fluorescent yellow/green as expected. Shining the light in the empty bottle doesn't glow either. I don't need some kind of special light, do I?
Using Leak Detection Dye
- Thread starter barlowc
- Start date
What do the directions for LeakFinder say?
It sound like either the dye is no good or the light isn't strong enough. I use this product and light and the stuff glows like crazy.
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-10-5...ds=gm+oil+leak+detector&qid=1664142940&sr=8-5
For coolant.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008I2VOC...utomotive&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWwy
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A5KLUG...36a58&s=hi&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-10-5...ds=gm+oil+leak+detector&qid=1664142940&sr=8-5
For coolant.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008I2VOC...utomotive&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWwy
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A5KLUG...36a58&s=hi&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw
"Scan the system with a fluorescent leak inspection lamp. Leak glows bright fluorescent yellow-green."
I initially wondered if the dye just hasn't made its way through the system yet. But I'd think that when I shine the light on the remnants of fluid in the bottle, I'd get some glow.
A 12 LED light is too weak. Use a 100 LED light, and use it after dark.
Look at the contents of the bottle with your LED light in a dark room.
You can get a cheap incandescent UV light bulb at Home Depot and screw it into a work light.
The UV light needs to be the correct wavelength for the dye. The manufacturer of the dye can tell you what you need.
David
David
I picked up the leak dye manufacturer's kit containing a UV leak detector and protective glasses. No difference. Their light contains 9 LED bulbs whereas the one I'd already bought has 12. At this point in time, I have to suspect that either a) the dye is defective, or b) the dye has not mixed and made its way though the engine yet. I'm going to drive the car some more and continue to examine the area where there are signs of a suspected leak.
Just because it comes as a kit, doesn't mean it's good. 12 LED's isn't enough.
I think you're using leak dye that really isn't very good. I've been using Bright Solutions 4-in-1 dye for a long while now.
https://brightsol.com/products/
This is what it looks like with the lights on the far side of the garage on:
The above image was illuminated with a 2-cell, AAA penlight that has one UV LED. IIRC, the penlight came with an AC leak detection dye kit. It's plenty "bright" enough.
https://brightsol.com/products/
This is what it looks like with the lights on the far side of the garage on:
The above image was illuminated with a 2-cell, AAA penlight that has one UV LED. IIRC, the penlight came with an AC leak detection dye kit. It's plenty "bright" enough.
I realize I'm reviving an old thread but it makes sense to keep like info consolidated in a single location rather than spread out across 15 threads.
I recently went down this rabbit hole a little. I initially had the basic kit of a small pen light and the crappy yellow glasses they give you. I was using whatever dye O'Reilly sells for oils (not a/c).
For me I found the provided glasses made this dye appear milky white. If you knew what you were looking for, it was just ok. Eventually (early) the crappy glasses just fell apart because my head is huge (to accommodate the big brain and all) and on a whim I decided to try some yellow Jackson Nemesis safety eyes I had. These made the dye appear mustard yellow, which I found infinitely easier to locate than a weak white. The white could almost be mistaken for raw aluminum in low light, but there's surprisingly little mustard yellow in most engine bays. Jackson Nemesis on right
I have also picked up the bigger light. Autozone sells one as SureBilt that uses three AAAs (vs two for the penlight) and looks very similar to what @Trav reco'd in post #3. The 3-battery version is way brighter:
That said, I have also ordered EVERYTHING Trav linked in Post #3. Even if I wind up with duplicate lights, they're inexpensive.
Finally, I don't know ANYTHING about light wavelengths or refraction or the human eye, but I think this is a HUGE YMMV. Firstly, we all know we interpret colors differently. And I know from welding typically those with lighter color eyes need darker shades while dark eye colors can get away with lighter shades. Some people prefer a gold, blue or green tint lens while welding. This is not welding but some of the principles may still apply.
I recently went down this rabbit hole a little. I initially had the basic kit of a small pen light and the crappy yellow glasses they give you. I was using whatever dye O'Reilly sells for oils (not a/c).
For me I found the provided glasses made this dye appear milky white. If you knew what you were looking for, it was just ok. Eventually (early) the crappy glasses just fell apart because my head is huge (to accommodate the big brain and all) and on a whim I decided to try some yellow Jackson Nemesis safety eyes I had. These made the dye appear mustard yellow, which I found infinitely easier to locate than a weak white. The white could almost be mistaken for raw aluminum in low light, but there's surprisingly little mustard yellow in most engine bays. Jackson Nemesis on right
I have also picked up the bigger light. Autozone sells one as SureBilt that uses three AAAs (vs two for the penlight) and looks very similar to what @Trav reco'd in post #3. The 3-battery version is way brighter:
That said, I have also ordered EVERYTHING Trav linked in Post #3. Even if I wind up with duplicate lights, they're inexpensive.
Finally, I don't know ANYTHING about light wavelengths or refraction or the human eye, but I think this is a HUGE YMMV. Firstly, we all know we interpret colors differently. And I know from welding typically those with lighter color eyes need darker shades while dark eye colors can get away with lighter shades. Some people prefer a gold, blue or green tint lens while welding. This is not welding but some of the principles may still apply.
# of LEDs isn't necessarily telling, one light could have ~100mW LEDs and another, fewer but higher powered LEDs. You could have a decent light (for pocket sized at least) with a single 3W LED, and similarly, grab a 3W UV LED off an electronics supplier site and swap it into any light using a single white LED with current regulation.
It is somewhat safe to assume an upper limit on light performance based in the type of battery. 1 x AAA really weak, 2 x AAA or 1 x AA, also weak. 3 x AAA or 2 x AA, or 1 x 18650 should be a starting point. The most relevant wavelength people get is 365nm but any light near this will have some spread into that spectrum.
It is somewhat safe to assume an upper limit on light performance based in the type of battery. 1 x AAA really weak, 2 x AAA or 1 x AA, also weak. 3 x AAA or 2 x AA, or 1 x 18650 should be a starting point. The most relevant wavelength people get is 365nm but any light near this will have some spread into that spectrum.
Further follow-up: received my light from Amazon reco'd by @Trav earlier in the thread. It is considerably larger than the SureBilt from AutoZone I reference above. It takes three AAs rather than AAAs.
I don't have any dyed fluid to look at ATM so can't provide performance reviews.
On the upside, it would appear the new light is good for locating your Golden Retriever
I don't have any dyed fluid to look at ATM so can't provide performance reviews.
On the upside, it would appear the new light is good for locating your Golden Retriever
