I realize that there is a lot of information about 5w20 vs. 5w30 on this website. From another forum where an engine "tick" seems to be a problem (2011-2014 Mustang 5.0 engines), the consensus seems to be that if an engine has a "tick" with 5w20, the solution might be to use a "thicker" oil such as 5w30. From what I have read and understand, 5w30 isn't necessarily "thicker" than 5w20. The difference between the 2 is the lube characteristics and not the thickness. Therefore, I do not agree with the solution. Am I correct or am I FOS?
using 5w30 to cure an engine "tick" problem
- Thread starter OkieHick
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Slight difference in the viscosity, with 5w-30 being slightly thicker at 100*C than 5w-20. At the extremes of both viscosities, a "thin" 5w-30 may well be just thick enough to be considered a 5w-30 since it's just above the cutoff for a 5w-20, while a "thick" 5w-20 might be practically a 5w-30 since it's right below the cutoff for 5w-30.
More info needed is the tick only when hot or cold or all of the time? Is it a tick or could it be a knock or even noisy injectors? How many miles? By The Way I don't agree with the solution either.
Welcome to bitog
Welcome to bitog
Thanks for the welcome! I don't have the tick in my 2014 Mustang 5.0, but there are those who get the tick after their 1st oil change. It happens after warm-up and from what I can tell it doesn't happen at rpm.
In reading all the posts on the Mustang forum, I have yet to see a definitive cause surface which I think is odd. One of the solutions that has been proposed is to go to a "thicker" oil. I was just questioning this solution. I may get the tick after the car's first oil change....who knows. But I don't plan to deviate from the recommended weight of 5w20 and will probably just live with the tick as long as it's confined to idle..
In reading all the posts on the Mustang forum, I have yet to see a definitive cause surface which I think is odd. One of the solutions that has been proposed is to go to a "thicker" oil. I was just questioning this solution. I may get the tick after the car's first oil change....who knows. But I don't plan to deviate from the recommended weight of 5w20 and will probably just live with the tick as long as it's confined to idle..
I found the new PP made my Honda MUCH quieter. Lubricity characteristics can quiet certain noises. I this tick a VVT racket? I thought I read somewhere at the engine introduction thatthe coyote DOHC engine uses a non-hydraulic mechanical VVT(?) VVT engine can have some odd noises, IME.
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
I found the new PP....
What is "PP"?
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
I thought I read somewhere at the engine introduction thatthe coyote DOHC engine uses a non-hydraulic mechanical VVT(?) VVT engine can have some odd noises, IME.
They are NOT quiet engines but can run like a scalded dog....
I found the new PP....
What is "PP"?
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
I thought I read somewhere at the engine introduction thatthe coyote DOHC engine uses a non-hydraulic mechanical VVT(?) VVT engine can have some odd noises, IME.
They are NOT quiet engines but can run like a scalded dog....
Welcome to the board.
PP=Pennzoil Platinum.
You said that the proposed solution is 5w30, has anyone been able to confirm if it works or not?
PP=Pennzoil Platinum.
You said that the proposed solution is 5w30, has anyone been able to confirm if it works or not?
Originally Posted By: cp3
Welcome to the board.
You said that the proposed solution is 5w30, has anyone been able to confirm if it works or not?
No. The ticking issue seems to go in many directions, i.e., what might work, mistakes made, lessons learned, changing oil too soon after car purchase, using the wrong weight of oil at first change, accusing Ford of putting in an undisclosed additive to suppress a problem and it goes on and on. There has been no firm cause/solution advanced which I think might say something in itself. Dealers have gone from stating that the tick is normal to replacing the engine. So who knows.
Frankly, I think we're seeing the result of aftermarket tunes and hard driving prior to engine break-in. Few will admit to that and instead blame the oil. (I hope these words don't get me excommunicated from my Mustang forum...)
Welcome to the board.
You said that the proposed solution is 5w30, has anyone been able to confirm if it works or not?
No. The ticking issue seems to go in many directions, i.e., what might work, mistakes made, lessons learned, changing oil too soon after car purchase, using the wrong weight of oil at first change, accusing Ford of putting in an undisclosed additive to suppress a problem and it goes on and on. There has been no firm cause/solution advanced which I think might say something in itself. Dealers have gone from stating that the tick is normal to replacing the engine. So who knows.
Frankly, I think we're seeing the result of aftermarket tunes and hard driving prior to engine break-in. Few will admit to that and instead blame the oil. (I hope these words don't get me excommunicated from my Mustang forum...)
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In my past experience with a 10 year old BMW and valves ticking, was to use 10w-40 oil. I used 5w-30 before that for many years.
I dont see you mentioning what exactly is causing the tick. So to recommend one brand or weight of oil vs other might be fruitless.
First step should be finding out exactly what is ticking, then applying proper solution.
I dont see you mentioning what exactly is causing the tick. So to recommend one brand or weight of oil vs other might be fruitless.
First step should be finding out exactly what is ticking, then applying proper solution.
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Hey guys, the OP doesn't even have the tick yet. He's just trying to be proactive in case he gets it. I would break the car in as per the OM instructions and I would not change the FF oil early. After that, find something that works and stick with it. The MC 5W-20 semi synthetic is certainly good.
Originally Posted By: bigt61
Hey guys, the OP doesn't even have the tick yet. He's just trying to be proactive in case he gets it. I would break the car in as per the OM instructions and I would not change the FF oil early. After that, find something that works and stick with it. The MC 5W-20 semi synthetic is certainly good.
Thank you! I've been "easy" on the car (4K rpm maybe once, no jackrabbit starts, under 3k rpm 99% of the time) and plan the first oil change at 5K miles using the MC500s filter and MC 5w20 syn blend. We'll see how it goes!
Hey guys, the OP doesn't even have the tick yet. He's just trying to be proactive in case he gets it. I would break the car in as per the OM instructions and I would not change the FF oil early. After that, find something that works and stick with it. The MC 5W-20 semi synthetic is certainly good.
Thank you! I've been "easy" on the car (4K rpm maybe once, no jackrabbit starts, under 3k rpm 99% of the time) and plan the first oil change at 5K miles using the MC500s filter and MC 5w20 syn blend. We'll see how it goes!
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