using 0w40 in stuff that doesn't need it?

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Plan on using 0W-40 in spring. 5w-30 is the recommended grade for the 5.7L. As my 4.6L ages I just might use the 0w-40 in that as well.
 
All the time, in everything in my sig except the (air cooled) motorcycle, and have been doing it for more than a decade with the 0W-40. (The Ram has different oil because I changed it while vacationing in British Columbia, where I couldn't find Mobil1 0W-40 on the shelf).

Before that used whatever 0W-xx was available (the technology has been evolving for quite some time), starting with 0W-30 Semi-Synthetic when it first became available here in Canada, in the mid 80's (Esso ArticLube) in my 1967 283-V8 Impala, which I drove all through college. Well over 200K miles, ran like a top, on that motor when I sold the car five years later.

Works very well, thank you.
 
I owned a 1990 Ford Tempo that called for 5-30. When it had about 140K I tried one change of M1 15-50. Big mistake. Engine became noticeably sluggish.
 
Ford went beyond that on thousands of newer 5.0 Mustangs. They spec Motorcraft 5w50 and 5w20 for the same engine. Only difference being if your ordered a car with a "track pack."
 
Originally Posted By: Gasbuggy
Ford went beyond that on thousands of newer 5.0 Mustangs. They spec Motorcraft 5w50 and 5w20 for the same engine. Only difference being if your ordered a car with a "track pack."



Yes because the track pack equipped car will never pull power even if you over heat it.
 
0w40 is the closest thing Ive found to a "universal oil"

I have one engine that calls for it specifically - my V10 and it has a 12 quart sump. I run wix non bypass filter in this engine.

So I buy it in bulk then run it in-

my lexus rx400H which calls for a range of 5w20 to 10w-30 and go about 7500K per change, and change out a fram ultra every other oil change (will switch to microgreen when I use up my supply of ultras)

my titan which calls for "x"w30 and typically go 7500 with 50% towing duty cycle. VK56 shears oil hard. - I have a microgreen and gold plug.

my diesel genset which calls for 10w-30 every 250 hours - and I change at about 350 hours I use a microgreen in it.

I run it in my cat 3126 with a 19 quart sump for about 10K.
I run it in my Yamaha 3000iseb
Ive run it in Honda eu2000's


Ive never had a single issue with any of these engines running it.
 
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Originally Posted By: Bluestream
Originally Posted By: Kuato
I will be soon.

In the F150 (specified 5w20), I'm planning a test. 0w40, 5w30 and 0/5w20 will all be run to 10k using Amsoil SS. I'll use the same brand filter each OCI.

MPG will be tracked for the entire OCI, and UOAs will be performed. Once complete I'll be posting the results.

Should be interesting.


There are SO many variables in real world fuel economy testing that it is just about impossible to do. Seriously. You can try as hard as you want but there are just too many variables and too many things that you cannot control. It is hard to even repeat fuel economy testing on the EPA test on emission rolls inside a building where there is no wind and the temperature, humidity, barometric pressure, etc. is all controlled. For the kind of difference you would be looking for it is pointless to even consider real world fuel economy testing. You just cannot find it.


You are correct. But since I don't own a dynamometer to run it on, in a chamber with a controlled environment,
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then I'll just do the best I can to keep my driving consistent.
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If I win tonight's 900 million lottery, I'll build such a facility, buy some cars and oil, and ask you to supervise the proceedings to make sure it is done to the correct standards.
smirk.gif
 
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Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Originally Posted By: Gasbuggy
Ford went beyond that on thousands of newer 5.0 Mustangs. They spec Motorcraft 5w50 and 5w20 for the same engine. Only difference being if your ordered a car with a "track pack."



Yes because the track pack equipped car will never pull power even if you over heat it.



???
 
Originally Posted By: Gasbuggy
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Originally Posted By: Gasbuggy
Ford went beyond that on thousands of newer 5.0 Mustangs. They spec Motorcraft 5w50 and 5w20 for the same engine. Only difference being if your ordered a car with a "track pack."



Yes because the track pack equipped car will never pull power even if you over heat it.


???



One of the "features" of the Mustang is that with the recommended 5W20 oil is you drive it within the cpabilities and the chassis, as it comes from the factory, you can get the oil temperatures to the point that to protect the engine, the Ford Engineers programmed the PCU to pull power down to reduce the risk of problems.

Get the track pack, and this feature doesn't exist, and you get 5W50 oil as a recommendation.
 
I am using 0w40 ultra in a mid 90s small block chevy. It seams to like just as fine as they like 10w40 in winter.

The engine is speced for 5w30 or 10w30.
 
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Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: Gasbuggy
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Originally Posted By: Gasbuggy
Ford went beyond that on thousands of newer 5.0 Mustangs. They spec Motorcraft 5w50 and 5w20 for the same engine. Only difference being if your ordered a car with a "track pack."



Yes because the track pack equipped car will never pull power even if you over heat it.


???



One of the "features" of the Mustang is that with the recommended 5W20 oil is you drive it within the cpabilities and the chassis, as it comes from the factory, you can get the oil temperatures to the point that to protect the engine, the Ford Engineers programmed the PCU to pull power down to reduce the risk of problems.

Get the track pack, and this feature doesn't exist, and you get 5W50 oil as a recommendation.


I believe that is a myth that exists only on this forum. No information on any of the sites where people who actually own and track these cars exists, only information to contrary about the track/non track packs running identical tunes/tables.
 
I'm using M1 0w40 in my girlfriends Volvo S60 2.4t. The OM specs 5w30 or 10w30 in anything above 90*F. I read here that Volvo (or someone else) had a TSB for this engine saying it needed an A3/B3 synthetic though.
 
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
There are SO many variables in real world fuel economy testing that it is just about impossible to do.

Yes. Given the variables and the margin of error, trying to demonstrate differences between a 0w-20 and just about any other grade of oil with respect to fuel economy outside of a lab is going to be an exercise in frustration, at the very least.
 
It's in my 96 civic hx and it still has great mpg. Hasn't seemed to use any in the 2k miles since I put it in. Was running 5w20 synthetic before and would use about a quart by 5k miles. And change it then.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Originally Posted By: car51
901Memphis: I'm following your UOA's and you may benefit from it.


Yes I'm hoping the extra HTHSV will improve my lead. I'm starting to think that the oem radiator isn't cooling like it's supposed to especially since it's so thin to begin with its got no reserve capacity I'm guessing.

I have rather high lead readings from my UOA with 0W-40 and 5W-40, you mean if I go to 20W-50 , my lead numbers will drop ?
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
As far as I've seen, no one here on BITOG has ever shown that running 0W-40 in any car has caused viscosity-related problems, ever. No matter what grade is specified for the engine.
What are viscosity related problems?
 
Originally Posted By: walterjay
Seems like in Europe they often spec heavier oil for the same engines used in US. I would say no problem.

Very true. In the manual for my 2003 Saab with the 2.3L turbo it specifies 5W-30. The same car sold in Europe specified 0W-40. Most of my Saab buddies use either M1 0W-40 or Rotella T6 5W-40 or 0W-40.
 
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