Urgent help needed. Best battery jumper box advic
- Thread starter M1Accord
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We are not telling you a new battery will solve the battery drain problem, that will have to be fixed sometime, perhaps after your trip.
What we are telling you is that you will get most boosting power from another battery as opposed to a jump box.
What we are telling you is that you will get most boosting power from another battery as opposed to a jump box.
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Those cheap jumpers just have, at the best, little lawnmower batteries inside. Go to walmart and look at their cheapest 12 volt lawnmower battery, it's $15-20, and weigh it. It's lead that makes this stuff work; the more weight, the more zip you have.
I agree with the above posts that say just get a new car battery; it'll be half the price because it doesn't have all that plastic junk surrounding it. Jumpers like that sold in Target etc are designed to be "friendly" towards women. I had a friend who detailed used cars at an auction; they had a handcart with two normal batteries wired together in parallel and beefy cables. They'd jump car after car in rows without exhausting their homemade remedy.
Part of the price of these things comes from the package, the electronics (incl the charging system), circuit breaker, switches, and/or lights. These jump starting units also have sealed lead-acid batteries, so there isn't quite the risk you'd get from a standard lead-acid battery that could leak if tipped over.
I'm sure the homemade starter rig works well, but it would require separate chargers, jumper cables, etc as well as the cart to haul it around in. Sometimes a ready-made package is ideal. Something with a handle and a self-contained charging system works quite well. I think a couple of Group 35 batteries at Costco would go for $120. Not sure about a cart. Toss in some jumper cables and a charging system, and we're talking about a nice chunk of change.
I think anything rated at 1200 amps is probably going to be huge, and he's doesn't sound too keen about lugging it around on a trip to Florida.
I do remember when there were dual-battery systems out there. I remember a Champion-branded battery that had a secondary battery. I think it was normally charged via a power diode. It would normally be disconnected. When needed to start, it would be strapped to the main battery via a switch.
Those cheap jumpers just have, at the best, little lawnmower batteries inside. Go to walmart and look at their cheapest 12 volt lawnmower battery, it's $15-20, and weigh it. It's lead that makes this stuff work; the more weight, the more zip you have.
I agree with the above posts that say just get a new car battery; it'll be half the price because it doesn't have all that plastic junk surrounding it. Jumpers like that sold in Target etc are designed to be "friendly" towards women. I had a friend who detailed used cars at an auction; they had a handcart with two normal batteries wired together in parallel and beefy cables. They'd jump car after car in rows without exhausting their homemade remedy.
Part of the price of these things comes from the package, the electronics (incl the charging system), circuit breaker, switches, and/or lights. These jump starting units also have sealed lead-acid batteries, so there isn't quite the risk you'd get from a standard lead-acid battery that could leak if tipped over.
I'm sure the homemade starter rig works well, but it would require separate chargers, jumper cables, etc as well as the cart to haul it around in. Sometimes a ready-made package is ideal. Something with a handle and a self-contained charging system works quite well. I think a couple of Group 35 batteries at Costco would go for $120. Not sure about a cart. Toss in some jumper cables and a charging system, and we're talking about a nice chunk of change.
I think anything rated at 1200 amps is probably going to be huge, and he's doesn't sound too keen about lugging it around on a trip to Florida.
I do remember when there were dual-battery systems out there. I remember a Champion-branded battery that had a secondary battery. I think it was normally charged via a power diode. It would normally be disconnected. When needed to start, it would be strapped to the main battery via a switch.
Originally Posted By: George7941
We are not telling you a new battery will solve the battery drain problem, that will have to be fixed sometime, perhaps after your trip.
What we are telling you is that you will get most boosting power from another battery as opposed to a jump box.
It might be a matter of convenience and safety. I know when I'm going on a long trip, I don't particularly want to haul around another battery and the other stuff needed to tap into that battery. I mentioned earlier that these things have sealed batteries.
I think I know which one the OP has. Seems a little bit heavy at 25 lbs. It weighs almost as much as a Group 51 battery. If the original poster already has one of these, I don't see why not just take it along. One like this wouldn't have been my first choice (it looks almost like every other one made in China) but it should work just fine.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40615
My personal preference is for Schumacher. They actually design their units themselves, and have them made to a fairly high manufacturing standard. Most of what you find on the market is probably ordered from a catalog, with different labels slapped on for the reseller. I don't think Vector (incl Black & Decker) is that bad either, but their output ratings seem way too generous. Their entry level one is just too light. Perhaps the VEC012 (or larger) would be a better choice. The quality of construction seems to be really good, but to start a car requires something that weighs more than a VEC010.
We are not telling you a new battery will solve the battery drain problem, that will have to be fixed sometime, perhaps after your trip.
What we are telling you is that you will get most boosting power from another battery as opposed to a jump box.
It might be a matter of convenience and safety. I know when I'm going on a long trip, I don't particularly want to haul around another battery and the other stuff needed to tap into that battery. I mentioned earlier that these things have sealed batteries.
I think I know which one the OP has. Seems a little bit heavy at 25 lbs. It weighs almost as much as a Group 51 battery. If the original poster already has one of these, I don't see why not just take it along. One like this wouldn't have been my first choice (it looks almost like every other one made in China) but it should work just fine.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40615
My personal preference is for Schumacher. They actually design their units themselves, and have them made to a fairly high manufacturing standard. Most of what you find on the market is probably ordered from a catalog, with different labels slapped on for the reseller. I don't think Vector (incl Black & Decker) is that bad either, but their output ratings seem way too generous. Their entry level one is just too light. Perhaps the VEC012 (or larger) would be a better choice. The quality of construction seems to be really good, but to start a car requires something that weighs more than a VEC010.
The snap on jump boxes where at one time made by dewalt, you should be able to find one at any Menards or Lowes. The dewalt jumper, not the snap on unit, but the same thing. But any of these jump units will have a hard time starting a completely depleted battery. If money where no object, I would buy a set of jumper cables, one of the sealed lead acid gel batteries available at red rooster, napa or carquest. I can't remember the name they are marketed under, but it's a sealed air craft battery for use in cars. To charge it on the road, wire it to a cigarette ligher plug and plug it in. That is not the best way to charge it, not very safe. Safer way is to use a 110v trickle charger plugged into a 12v inverter, this should give you three fuses for protection against a fault. But any short that can drain a battery by steeping on the brake pedal that fast, is a fire waiting to happend. Fix the problem first.
Originally Posted By: y_p_w
Originally Posted By: George7941
We are not telling you a new battery will solve the battery drain problem, that will have to be fixed sometime, perhaps after your trip.
What we are telling you is that you will get most boosting power from another battery as opposed to a jump box.
It might be a matter of convenience and safety. I know when I'm going on a long trip, I don't particularly want to haul around another battery and the other stuff needed to tap into that battery. I mentioned earlier that these things have sealed batteries.
I think I know which one the OP has. Seems a little bit heavy at 25 lbs. It weighs almost as much as a Group 51 battery. If the original poster already has one of these, I don't see why not just take it along. One like this wouldn't have been my first choice (it looks almost like every other one made in China) but it should work just fine.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40615
My personal preference is for Schumacher. They actually design their units themselves, and have them made to a fairly high manufacturing standard. Most of what you find on the market is probably ordered from a catalog, with different labels slapped on for the reseller. I don't think Vector (incl Black & Decker) is that bad either, but their output ratings seem way too generous. Their entry level one is just too light. Perhaps the VEC012 (or larger) would be a better choice. The quality of construction seems to be really good, but to start a car requires something that weighs more than a VEC010.
This is the one I bought. I bought it because it is very heavy and has the industrial look to it. I wouldn't mind getting a Snap-On if there is one available for sale around here but there isn't and I can't sit at home to wait for it to arrive. I am sure buying it online will requires signature as it is a $280 jump box.
I can't find any information on Chicago Electric Power Tools jump box beside what is posted at the store's website. I want to see if it is a good bet and not junk like B&D, which can't hold charge no matter how long I charge it. I just recharged the B&D again for 15 hrs to get a green light. The light went red again after being unplugged for 15 minutes. Even at red, I still think it should jump a small car but it didn't when I needed it West Virginia. I am going to try my best to return it to Walmart for store credit.
I am taking the car to a DIY shop in 5 minutes and get the help from the manager there. He knows a lot of stuffs and hopefully he can figure out where the short is to help me fix this.
The reason I still keep this vehicle is that I got 36 mpg driving around West Virginia high altitude road with the windows down (to not have to use AC to prevent battery drain.) For typical nice long drive from Virginia to Florida, I usually get 40 mpg dong 70 mph. That beats the [censored] out of most hybrids.
Originally Posted By: George7941
We are not telling you a new battery will solve the battery drain problem, that will have to be fixed sometime, perhaps after your trip.
What we are telling you is that you will get most boosting power from another battery as opposed to a jump box.
It might be a matter of convenience and safety. I know when I'm going on a long trip, I don't particularly want to haul around another battery and the other stuff needed to tap into that battery. I mentioned earlier that these things have sealed batteries.
I think I know which one the OP has. Seems a little bit heavy at 25 lbs. It weighs almost as much as a Group 51 battery. If the original poster already has one of these, I don't see why not just take it along. One like this wouldn't have been my first choice (it looks almost like every other one made in China) but it should work just fine.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40615
My personal preference is for Schumacher. They actually design their units themselves, and have them made to a fairly high manufacturing standard. Most of what you find on the market is probably ordered from a catalog, with different labels slapped on for the reseller. I don't think Vector (incl Black & Decker) is that bad either, but their output ratings seem way too generous. Their entry level one is just too light. Perhaps the VEC012 (or larger) would be a better choice. The quality of construction seems to be really good, but to start a car requires something that weighs more than a VEC010.
This is the one I bought. I bought it because it is very heavy and has the industrial look to it. I wouldn't mind getting a Snap-On if there is one available for sale around here but there isn't and I can't sit at home to wait for it to arrive. I am sure buying it online will requires signature as it is a $280 jump box.
I can't find any information on Chicago Electric Power Tools jump box beside what is posted at the store's website. I want to see if it is a good bet and not junk like B&D, which can't hold charge no matter how long I charge it. I just recharged the B&D again for 15 hrs to get a green light. The light went red again after being unplugged for 15 minutes. Even at red, I still think it should jump a small car but it didn't when I needed it West Virginia. I am going to try my best to return it to Walmart for store credit.
I am taking the car to a DIY shop in 5 minutes and get the help from the manager there. He knows a lot of stuffs and hopefully he can figure out where the short is to help me fix this.
The reason I still keep this vehicle is that I got 36 mpg driving around West Virginia high altitude road with the windows down (to not have to use AC to prevent battery drain.) For typical nice long drive from Virginia to Florida, I usually get 40 mpg dong 70 mph. That beats the [censored] out of most hybrids.
Originally Posted By: 03cvpi
The snap on jump boxes where at one time made by dewalt, you should be able to find one at any Menards or Lowes. The dewalt jumper, not the snap on unit, but the same thing. But any of these jump units will have a hard time starting a completely depleted battery. If money where no object, I would buy a set of jumper cables, one of the sealed lead acid gel batteries available at red rooster, napa or carquest. I can't remember the name they are marketed under, but it's a sealed air craft battery for use in cars. To charge it on the road, wire it to a cigarette ligher plug and plug it in. That is not the best way to charge it, not very safe. Safer way is to use a 110v trickle charger plugged into a 12v inverter, this should give you three fuses for protection against a fault. But any short that can drain a battery by steeping on the brake pedal that fast, is a fire waiting to happend. Fix the problem first.
Many things caused the car not to start. We were using the A/C to the max with the fan on at max as well in city driving. I also had the headlight on and actually forgot to turn it off when we went inside the Walmart for 30 minutes. The car had failed to start in the past when it rained very hard. Usually, I just leave it sitting there for 2-5 hrs and try again. I do know stepping on the brake drain the battery a lot because it acts as if I leave the car in Accessary Mode and I can hear the severe strain when I roll the windows up doing so.
I had gotten into a bad habbit of using the brake as a way to control the windows because I didn't feel putting the key back in. The car only fails to started 3 times in the last 4 months, one time during heavy rain, one for no reason after getting gas from a 200 miles run, and this last time in WV. I am going to try my best to tackle the problem today and tomorrow. Otherwise, I'll live with it for the trip there because it is a problem that a good jump box can cure. Battery, alternator, and charging system are fine.
The reason I am taking this car instead of my 02 Accord, which has no problem, is simply that I can be careful about parking it in strange place. If it does breakdown and repair bills seem too high, I can simply junk it and take a bus back home. The car runs fine if it didn't have this seasonal problem, which really [censored] me off.
The snap on jump boxes where at one time made by dewalt, you should be able to find one at any Menards or Lowes. The dewalt jumper, not the snap on unit, but the same thing. But any of these jump units will have a hard time starting a completely depleted battery. If money where no object, I would buy a set of jumper cables, one of the sealed lead acid gel batteries available at red rooster, napa or carquest. I can't remember the name they are marketed under, but it's a sealed air craft battery for use in cars. To charge it on the road, wire it to a cigarette ligher plug and plug it in. That is not the best way to charge it, not very safe. Safer way is to use a 110v trickle charger plugged into a 12v inverter, this should give you three fuses for protection against a fault. But any short that can drain a battery by steeping on the brake pedal that fast, is a fire waiting to happend. Fix the problem first.
Many things caused the car not to start. We were using the A/C to the max with the fan on at max as well in city driving. I also had the headlight on and actually forgot to turn it off when we went inside the Walmart for 30 minutes. The car had failed to start in the past when it rained very hard. Usually, I just leave it sitting there for 2-5 hrs and try again. I do know stepping on the brake drain the battery a lot because it acts as if I leave the car in Accessary Mode and I can hear the severe strain when I roll the windows up doing so.
I had gotten into a bad habbit of using the brake as a way to control the windows because I didn't feel putting the key back in. The car only fails to started 3 times in the last 4 months, one time during heavy rain, one for no reason after getting gas from a 200 miles run, and this last time in WV. I am going to try my best to tackle the problem today and tomorrow. Otherwise, I'll live with it for the trip there because it is a problem that a good jump box can cure. Battery, alternator, and charging system are fine.
The reason I am taking this car instead of my 02 Accord, which has no problem, is simply that I can be careful about parking it in strange place. If it does breakdown and repair bills seem too high, I can simply junk it and take a bus back home. The car runs fine if it didn't have this seasonal problem, which really [censored] me off.
Originally Posted By: George7941
We are not telling you a new battery will solve the battery drain problem, that will have to be fixed sometime, perhaps after your trip.
What we are telling you is that you will get most boosting power from another battery as opposed to a jump box.
I do agree with using a battery to boost a battery but I think a lot of people were telling me to just replace the battery, which doesn't help since I'll end up with just one battery in the car.
It is actually a cheaper method to have a used battery as a booster because a used battery, in good condition, is $12 when trading in. It can be used as a jump box using a good jump cable. I wonder if I can leave the car running for may be 5 minutes after the car is jumped to fully charge the jump battery (good) back up so that I can reuse it again with confident if needed on the same trip. That would save me from having to charge it from camp site or hotel, either being a desirable or safe place to bring a battery in to charge.
Wish me luck, I am heading to the shop.
By the way, I did sound like a [censored] when criticizing the community for provide strang advice. I just thought that a lot of people tend to put more thoughts into answering silly questions such as 5W20, 5W30, and 10W30 mixed usage than actually a question that is quite important for many people to know about. I take back my rude ranting.
We are not telling you a new battery will solve the battery drain problem, that will have to be fixed sometime, perhaps after your trip.
What we are telling you is that you will get most boosting power from another battery as opposed to a jump box.
I do agree with using a battery to boost a battery but I think a lot of people were telling me to just replace the battery, which doesn't help since I'll end up with just one battery in the car.
It is actually a cheaper method to have a used battery as a booster because a used battery, in good condition, is $12 when trading in. It can be used as a jump box using a good jump cable. I wonder if I can leave the car running for may be 5 minutes after the car is jumped to fully charge the jump battery (good) back up so that I can reuse it again with confident if needed on the same trip. That would save me from having to charge it from camp site or hotel, either being a desirable or safe place to bring a battery in to charge.
Wish me luck, I am heading to the shop.
By the way, I did sound like a [censored] when criticizing the community for provide strang advice. I just thought that a lot of people tend to put more thoughts into answering silly questions such as 5W20, 5W30, and 10W30 mixed usage than actually a question that is quite important for many people to know about. I take back my rude ranting.
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Originally Posted By: M1Accord
This is the one I bought. I bought it because it is very heavy and has the industrial look to it. I wouldn't mind getting a Snap-On if there is one available for sale around here but there isn't and I can't sit at home to wait for it to arrive. I am sure buying it online will requires signature as it is a $280 jump box.
I can't find any information on Chicago Electric Power Tools jump box beside what is posted at the store's website. I want to see if it is a good bet and not junk like B&D, which can't hold charge no matter how long I charge it. I just recharged the B&D again for 15 hrs to get a green light. The light went red again after being unplugged for 15 minutes. Even at red, I still think it should jump a small car but it didn't when I needed it West Virginia. I am going to try my best to return it to Walmart for store credit.
Really - they don't make it. As far as I can tell, "Chicago Electric Power Tools" is just some sort of small company that imports products that they neither design nor build. There are a bunch of similar jump starters with similar thermoplastic housing/handles, switches, and meters. I think the reseller has a choice of colors, switch/meter types, and locations, but they're effectively the same thing. Typically the plastic looks like the stuff used to make toys like a Big Wheel. They might also have options for lights and air compressors, but those seem to just be attachments to the main mold. I wouldn't be surprised if there are other ones made in the same factory out of the same molds. For instance, this one looks to have the identical housing:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RRRLGC
That doesn't mean it won't be acceptable for the job it was intended to do. If it is indeed 25 lbs, I wouldn't bother to get another one. With these things, the ability to start is almost universally about how much it weighs.
This is the one I bought. I bought it because it is very heavy and has the industrial look to it. I wouldn't mind getting a Snap-On if there is one available for sale around here but there isn't and I can't sit at home to wait for it to arrive. I am sure buying it online will requires signature as it is a $280 jump box.
I can't find any information on Chicago Electric Power Tools jump box beside what is posted at the store's website. I want to see if it is a good bet and not junk like B&D, which can't hold charge no matter how long I charge it. I just recharged the B&D again for 15 hrs to get a green light. The light went red again after being unplugged for 15 minutes. Even at red, I still think it should jump a small car but it didn't when I needed it West Virginia. I am going to try my best to return it to Walmart for store credit.
Really - they don't make it. As far as I can tell, "Chicago Electric Power Tools" is just some sort of small company that imports products that they neither design nor build. There are a bunch of similar jump starters with similar thermoplastic housing/handles, switches, and meters. I think the reseller has a choice of colors, switch/meter types, and locations, but they're effectively the same thing. Typically the plastic looks like the stuff used to make toys like a Big Wheel. They might also have options for lights and air compressors, but those seem to just be attachments to the main mold. I wouldn't be surprised if there are other ones made in the same factory out of the same molds. For instance, this one looks to have the identical housing:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RRRLGC
That doesn't mean it won't be acceptable for the job it was intended to do. If it is indeed 25 lbs, I wouldn't bother to get another one. With these things, the ability to start is almost universally about how much it weighs.
You should get a battery cutoff switch if not to save your battery, but to make sure you're at least around the car when it catches fire. An amp draw that's enough to slow your windows will make a lot of heat in some wire probably under your dash, enough to melt insulation and go crazy.
Originally Posted By: eljefino
You should get a battery cutoff switch if not to save your battery, but to make sure you're at least around the car when it catches fire. An amp draw that's enough to slow your windows will make a lot of heat in some wire probably under your dash, enough to melt insulation and go crazy.
This problem has been going on fro 6-7 years from the previous owner. I just never thought that it would cause starting problem. Sears thinks it is the culprit but I just got back from the DIY shop and believe I have fixed the starting problem. The positive terminal post had slight corrosion so I attempted to clean if off by taking it off. The screw was actually corroded through and just snapped off. Even though the clamp was still on very tight, the car wouldn't start even with the jump box assistant. I found a replacement screw and everything runs great. The brake problem isn't fix but at least I think I solved the starting problem. It does make sense now that I think about it. The starting problem very rarely occurs and a quick jump solves it right away. Sometime it would solve itself if I wait long enough. I believe that the corroded nut and bolt was what keeping it from delevering enough juice to start the car.
I think I will keep the jump box and try to maintain it. It seems heavy and industrial looking enough. I would love to be able to help jump a few cars to prove it can actually work and not have to work to find out a year or so later like I did with that stupid B&D junk.
I did take the opportunity to change the oil and filter as well and found a new problem. My left CV Boot is ripped open and the grease spilled out. AAP supplier doesn't have one in stock and can't order it for it. I'll need to run to Peps Boys, Napa, or Auto Zone and see which one carry one. I'll replace both side as well before heading out for my trip. I can probably make it without replacement until I come back but I don't like going far with a know mechanical problem.
Thank you everyone for your help.
By the way, the shop manager also recommended a cut-off switch and I had to explain to him that it is the brake that drain the battery only when it is depressed. The battery isn't drained when no one press the brake; therefore, the cut-off switch would be a rather dumb idea because I would have to open my hood each time I want to start the car and when I turn off the car. He agrees it is a dumb idea and stated that he thought the drainage continues after the brake pedal is let off.
You should get a battery cutoff switch if not to save your battery, but to make sure you're at least around the car when it catches fire. An amp draw that's enough to slow your windows will make a lot of heat in some wire probably under your dash, enough to melt insulation and go crazy.
This problem has been going on fro 6-7 years from the previous owner. I just never thought that it would cause starting problem. Sears thinks it is the culprit but I just got back from the DIY shop and believe I have fixed the starting problem. The positive terminal post had slight corrosion so I attempted to clean if off by taking it off. The screw was actually corroded through and just snapped off. Even though the clamp was still on very tight, the car wouldn't start even with the jump box assistant. I found a replacement screw and everything runs great. The brake problem isn't fix but at least I think I solved the starting problem. It does make sense now that I think about it. The starting problem very rarely occurs and a quick jump solves it right away. Sometime it would solve itself if I wait long enough. I believe that the corroded nut and bolt was what keeping it from delevering enough juice to start the car.
I think I will keep the jump box and try to maintain it. It seems heavy and industrial looking enough. I would love to be able to help jump a few cars to prove it can actually work and not have to work to find out a year or so later like I did with that stupid B&D junk.
I did take the opportunity to change the oil and filter as well and found a new problem. My left CV Boot is ripped open and the grease spilled out. AAP supplier doesn't have one in stock and can't order it for it. I'll need to run to Peps Boys, Napa, or Auto Zone and see which one carry one. I'll replace both side as well before heading out for my trip. I can probably make it without replacement until I come back but I don't like going far with a know mechanical problem.
Thank you everyone for your help.
By the way, the shop manager also recommended a cut-off switch and I had to explain to him that it is the brake that drain the battery only when it is depressed. The battery isn't drained when no one press the brake; therefore, the cut-off switch would be a rather dumb idea because I would have to open my hood each time I want to start the car and when I turn off the car. He agrees it is a dumb idea and stated that he thought the drainage continues after the brake pedal is let off.
Originally Posted By: eljefino
If it's a true short then your brake light fuse would blow. If it's a weak return spring or bad switch then your lights would be on all the time, which I think you'd notice.
I have been wondering the same thing. Everything functions fine, it is just that depressing the brake has the same effect as if I have the key in the ignition and in Accessary mode.
If it's a true short then your brake light fuse would blow. If it's a weak return spring or bad switch then your lights would be on all the time, which I think you'd notice.
I have been wondering the same thing. Everything functions fine, it is just that depressing the brake has the same effect as if I have the key in the ignition and in Accessary mode.
Originally Posted By: M1Accord
I just got back from the DIY shop and believe I have fixed the starting problem. The positive terminal post had slight corrosion so I attempted to clean if off by taking it off. The screw was actually corroded through and just snapped off. Even though the clamp was still on very tight, the car wouldn't start even with the jump box assistant. I found a replacement screw and everything runs great.
There you go. If you had arcing between your battery post and terminal from a lose connection, that makes a high-resistance burn spot that won't let any current through at all. You have to take it all apart and put it back together- usually this scrapes the burn off and all is well again.
A sure sign of this is your dome light and gauges work before you try and start the car, it goes pfft, then the dome and gauges are all completely dead.
I just got back from the DIY shop and believe I have fixed the starting problem. The positive terminal post had slight corrosion so I attempted to clean if off by taking it off. The screw was actually corroded through and just snapped off. Even though the clamp was still on very tight, the car wouldn't start even with the jump box assistant. I found a replacement screw and everything runs great.
There you go. If you had arcing between your battery post and terminal from a lose connection, that makes a high-resistance burn spot that won't let any current through at all. You have to take it all apart and put it back together- usually this scrapes the burn off and all is well again.
A sure sign of this is your dome light and gauges work before you try and start the car, it goes pfft, then the dome and gauges are all completely dead.
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Originally Posted By: M1Accord
I just got back from the DIY shop and believe I have fixed the starting problem. The positive terminal post had slight corrosion so I attempted to clean if off by taking it off. The screw was actually corroded through and just snapped off. Even though the clamp was still on very tight, the car wouldn't start even with the jump box assistant. I found a replacement screw and everything runs great.
There you go. If you had arcing between your battery post and terminal from a lose connection, that makes a high-resistance burn spot that won't let any current through at all. You have to take it all apart and put it back together- usually this scrapes the burn off and all is well again.
A sure sign of this is your dome light and gauges work before you try and start the car, it goes pfft, then the dome and gauges are all completely dead.
I took both terminal posts off and clean them really good. I also replaced the anti-corrosion pads. This still doesn't fix the brake problem but I think I can leave with it as long as it doesn't leave me stranded. The shop manager thinks this is a mater of either old wire or something loose that rubs together. He thinks I am lucky that the short isn't bad enough where the car would start by depressing the brake as this is also possible the same way thieves steal older cars by shorting the wires.
Originally Posted By: M1Accord
I just got back from the DIY shop and believe I have fixed the starting problem. The positive terminal post had slight corrosion so I attempted to clean if off by taking it off. The screw was actually corroded through and just snapped off. Even though the clamp was still on very tight, the car wouldn't start even with the jump box assistant. I found a replacement screw and everything runs great.
There you go. If you had arcing between your battery post and terminal from a lose connection, that makes a high-resistance burn spot that won't let any current through at all. You have to take it all apart and put it back together- usually this scrapes the burn off and all is well again.
A sure sign of this is your dome light and gauges work before you try and start the car, it goes pfft, then the dome and gauges are all completely dead.
I took both terminal posts off and clean them really good. I also replaced the anti-corrosion pads. This still doesn't fix the brake problem but I think I can leave with it as long as it doesn't leave me stranded. The shop manager thinks this is a mater of either old wire or something loose that rubs together. He thinks I am lucky that the short isn't bad enough where the car would start by depressing the brake as this is also possible the same way thieves steal older cars by shorting the wires.
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