I'm pretty sure there are better choice's out there than a Chrysler 200.
Upgrade to Chrysler 200
- Thread starter smc733
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Originally Posted By: mrsilv04
Why is this 200 back on the lot after only 2000 miles?
That's my first concern.
Demo?
Guy leased it and was deployed to Afghanistan?
Repo?
Guy leased it and died?
Dealership selling off their service loaner?
Why is this 200 back on the lot after only 2000 miles?
That's my first concern.
Demo?
Guy leased it and was deployed to Afghanistan?
Repo?
Guy leased it and died?
Dealership selling off their service loaner?
Originally Posted By: smc733
[I do know these depreciate fast, which worries me that this is a far more unsound financial decision... But, any thoughts on what I could haggle them to? If I could get the difference between my trade and this car to $5k, I might be inclined to bite...
I have also been looking at 2013 200s, and there are some great incentives right now ($3250 cash allowance), but my biggest problem with them is that the V6 models cost too much, and the I4 is WAY louder than my Corolla.
If you get a good deal up front and plan to keep the vehicle a while deprecation is not a big deal. On the other hand, If you pay top dollar and are looking to trade a few years down the road then it becomes more of a consideration.
General rule of thumb on used cars; whatever they are asking offer around 20% less and start negotiations there.
Since you're not under pressure to buy now take your time, kick some tires, shop around, go on test drives, see what kind offers are out there. However, play your cards close to the vest, don't reveal too much info about where you what to be on the trade in, etc.
Always focus on the final price of the car first, discuss trade ins after nailing down a firm price.
[I do know these depreciate fast, which worries me that this is a far more unsound financial decision... But, any thoughts on what I could haggle them to? If I could get the difference between my trade and this car to $5k, I might be inclined to bite...
I have also been looking at 2013 200s, and there are some great incentives right now ($3250 cash allowance), but my biggest problem with them is that the V6 models cost too much, and the I4 is WAY louder than my Corolla.
If you get a good deal up front and plan to keep the vehicle a while deprecation is not a big deal. On the other hand, If you pay top dollar and are looking to trade a few years down the road then it becomes more of a consideration.
General rule of thumb on used cars; whatever they are asking offer around 20% less and start negotiations there.
Since you're not under pressure to buy now take your time, kick some tires, shop around, go on test drives, see what kind offers are out there. However, play your cards close to the vest, don't reveal too much info about where you what to be on the trade in, etc.
Always focus on the final price of the car first, discuss trade ins after nailing down a firm price.
Originally Posted By: Jarlaxle
Demo?
Guy leased it and was deployed to Afghanistan?
Repo?
Guy leased it and died?
Dealership selling off their service loaner?
Or the most obvious answer... Hurricane Sandy damaged, seeing how its near the east coast.
Originally Posted By: hypervish
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
I would not trade a Toyota for a Chrysler,NO WAY!
+1, I wouldn't even think of doing that!
+1 here too. I would keep the Corolla, no doubt.
Demo?
Guy leased it and was deployed to Afghanistan?
Repo?
Guy leased it and died?
Dealership selling off their service loaner?
Or the most obvious answer... Hurricane Sandy damaged, seeing how its near the east coast.
Originally Posted By: hypervish
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
I would not trade a Toyota for a Chrysler,NO WAY!
+1, I wouldn't even think of doing that!
+1 here too. I would keep the Corolla, no doubt.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: [email protected]
Or the most obvious answer... Hurricane Sandy damaged, seeing how its near the east coast.
Highly unlikely.
Flood damaged vehicles typically get shipped off to states with lax title laws (Mass. definetly not one of those) and end up on used car lots.
Or the most obvious answer... Hurricane Sandy damaged, seeing how its near the east coast.
Highly unlikely.
Flood damaged vehicles typically get shipped off to states with lax title laws (Mass. definetly not one of those) and end up on used car lots.
Originally Posted By: Rock_Hudstone
Originally Posted By: smc733
[I do know these depreciate fast, which worries me that this is a far more unsound financial decision... But, any thoughts on what I could haggle them to? If I could get the difference between my trade and this car to $5k, I might be inclined to bite...
I have also been looking at 2013 200s, and there are some great incentives right now ($3250 cash allowance), but my biggest problem with them is that the V6 models cost too much, and the I4 is WAY louder than my Corolla.
If you get a good deal up front and plan to keep the vehicle a while deprecation is not a big deal. On the other hand, If you pay top dollar and are looking to trade a few years down the road then it becomes more of a consideration.
General rule of thumb on used cars; whatever they are asking offer around 20% less and start negotiations there.
Since you're not under pressure to buy now take your time, kick some tires, shop around, go on test drives, see what kind offers are out there. However, play your cards close to the vest, don't reveal too much info about where you what to be on the trade in, etc.
Always focus on the final price of the car first, discuss trade ins after nailing down a firm price.
Thanks for this info, this is invaluable, and I can definitely utilize some of these tactics next time I am car hunting (be it for this, or if I give up for now, a few years down the road).
I think I will go on Thursday, and find out the deal. I doubt this was hurricane damaged, as we did not get anything more than a normal rainstorm from Sandy here in MA. The lien on the Autocheck looks to be the suspicious info here...
If the car looks good, and the drive is better than the I-4 I test drove, I'll offer a flat $18k for the car, and try to get $13,500 for my trade (this is the KBB, which I know has more than its fair share of problems, but being still a "buyer's market", I'll try to get them to that). That would leave a difference of $4,500 (probably $5k when they counter 18.5k or so on the sale price), and with my tax refund on the way, I may just pay cash (I own the Corolla outright).
Originally Posted By: smc733
[I do know these depreciate fast, which worries me that this is a far more unsound financial decision... But, any thoughts on what I could haggle them to? If I could get the difference between my trade and this car to $5k, I might be inclined to bite...
I have also been looking at 2013 200s, and there are some great incentives right now ($3250 cash allowance), but my biggest problem with them is that the V6 models cost too much, and the I4 is WAY louder than my Corolla.
If you get a good deal up front and plan to keep the vehicle a while deprecation is not a big deal. On the other hand, If you pay top dollar and are looking to trade a few years down the road then it becomes more of a consideration.
General rule of thumb on used cars; whatever they are asking offer around 20% less and start negotiations there.
Since you're not under pressure to buy now take your time, kick some tires, shop around, go on test drives, see what kind offers are out there. However, play your cards close to the vest, don't reveal too much info about where you what to be on the trade in, etc.
Always focus on the final price of the car first, discuss trade ins after nailing down a firm price.
Thanks for this info, this is invaluable, and I can definitely utilize some of these tactics next time I am car hunting (be it for this, or if I give up for now, a few years down the road).
I think I will go on Thursday, and find out the deal. I doubt this was hurricane damaged, as we did not get anything more than a normal rainstorm from Sandy here in MA. The lien on the Autocheck looks to be the suspicious info here...
If the car looks good, and the drive is better than the I-4 I test drove, I'll offer a flat $18k for the car, and try to get $13,500 for my trade (this is the KBB, which I know has more than its fair share of problems, but being still a "buyer's market", I'll try to get them to that). That would leave a difference of $4,500 (probably $5k when they counter 18.5k or so on the sale price), and with my tax refund on the way, I may just pay cash (I own the Corolla outright).
Trade it in, if you like it. Sometimes you gotta go with the heart.
That and, that generation of Corolla is one of the worst cars I have ever driven. I absolutely hate those cars. Horrible.
(The steering is a huge reason as to why) and the tupperware interior is the 2nd biggest reason.
That and, that generation of Corolla is one of the worst cars I have ever driven. I absolutely hate those cars. Horrible.
(The steering is a huge reason as to why) and the tupperware interior is the 2nd biggest reason.
If the 2011 Corrolla is as bad as the 08 my MIL has, I would dump it too, that 1.8 4AT is one of absolute worst cars I have ever driven and the cheap interior is also a big negative.
Per the 200 I would look at a new one, they are heavily discounted and are on of the nicer values for the money. They upgraded the interior and the 3.6 6spd is a nice combo.
Per the 200 I would look at a new one, they are heavily discounted and are on of the nicer values for the money. They upgraded the interior and the 3.6 6spd is a nice combo.
He mentioned that carfax said it had a lien on it ... probably a report.
Originally Posted By: hypervish
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
I would not trade a Toyota for a Chrysler,NO WAY!
+1, I wouldn't even think of doing that!
+2 I wouldn't
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
I would not trade a Toyota for a Chrysler,NO WAY!
+1, I wouldn't even think of doing that!
+2 I wouldn't
I really can't weigh in on the 3.6 powered 200. I have driven it's predecessor in Convertible 3.5 form and in 2.4 sedan form.
The power retractable hardtop SOHC 3.5 V6 Sebring was good looking and powerful.....and then a corner came and ruined the whole experience. Sloppy, slow steering, tons of body roll and cowl shake. Massive understeer.
The 2.4 Sebring sedan was quiet, really smooth, and sllllooooooowwwwwwwww. I seriously cannot believe that the Optima and Sonata share overall engine design with the Sebring. They are that different. Same body roll and slow steering but it would take you awhile to get up to a speed that a corner could legitimately scare you.
The power retractable hardtop SOHC 3.5 V6 Sebring was good looking and powerful.....and then a corner came and ruined the whole experience. Sloppy, slow steering, tons of body roll and cowl shake. Massive understeer.
The 2.4 Sebring sedan was quiet, really smooth, and sllllooooooowwwwwwwww. I seriously cannot believe that the Optima and Sonata share overall engine design with the Sebring. They are that different. Same body roll and slow steering but it would take you awhile to get up to a speed that a corner could legitimately scare you.
Hi All,
Thanks for all the input, and the review posted above is definitely helpful.
My conclusion is this does not seem like a wise investment, although it is a nicer car. Meaning, I am only going to go for it if I can get an outrageous deal. The price seems a little high compared to Edmunds/KBB/NADA.
I'm planning for low-ball them at 17.5k, accepting up to 18.2k as a counter. I will then settle for no less than 13k, but push for 13.5k on my car. If the numbers align, and the total (pre-tax) comes under $5k, I will bite, otherwise, I will pass.
I plan to use depreciation and the current incentives on new models as my reasoning to get them to come down in price. If they bite, fine, if not, oh well.
Thanks for all the input, and the review posted above is definitely helpful.
My conclusion is this does not seem like a wise investment, although it is a nicer car. Meaning, I am only going to go for it if I can get an outrageous deal. The price seems a little high compared to Edmunds/KBB/NADA.
I'm planning for low-ball them at 17.5k, accepting up to 18.2k as a counter. I will then settle for no less than 13k, but push for 13.5k on my car. If the numbers align, and the total (pre-tax) comes under $5k, I will bite, otherwise, I will pass.
I plan to use depreciation and the current incentives on new models as my reasoning to get them to come down in price. If they bite, fine, if not, oh well.
Got me reconsidering.
I don't think I would buy one new. Not unless I could negotiate a really good price.
The depreciation is just too much. These things stickered for sometimes as much as $35,000 (loaded Power Retracting Hardtop) and I'm seeing them for $20,000 or less.
But I do sometimes miss my old Sebring 2.5 V6. I know it's hard to believe but it was a good convertible. Roomier and better sorted than a 3.8 Mustang Convertible for less money.
I don't think I would buy one new. Not unless I could negotiate a really good price.
The depreciation is just too much. These things stickered for sometimes as much as $35,000 (loaded Power Retracting Hardtop) and I'm seeing them for $20,000 or less.
But I do sometimes miss my old Sebring 2.5 V6. I know it's hard to believe but it was a good convertible. Roomier and better sorted than a 3.8 Mustang Convertible for less money.
Originally Posted By: smc733
I'm planning for low-ball them at 17.5k, accepting up to 18.2k as a counter. I will then settle for no less than 13k, but push for 13.5k on my car. If the numbers align, and the total (pre-tax) comes under $5k, I will bite, otherwise, I will pass.
I plan to use depreciation and the current incentives on new models as my reasoning to get them to come down in price. If they bite, fine, if not, oh well.
I'd keep an open mind, see what kind of deal can be wrangled on a 2013 before making an offer on the 2012, keep that as the fallback position..
Also, see if there are any new 2012 leftovers around the area.
As mentioned, they are supposedly dealing on the '13's and with incentives it could make for an attractive deal on brand new car in your choice of color and options.
I'm planning for low-ball them at 17.5k, accepting up to 18.2k as a counter. I will then settle for no less than 13k, but push for 13.5k on my car. If the numbers align, and the total (pre-tax) comes under $5k, I will bite, otherwise, I will pass.
I plan to use depreciation and the current incentives on new models as my reasoning to get them to come down in price. If they bite, fine, if not, oh well.
I'd keep an open mind, see what kind of deal can be wrangled on a 2013 before making an offer on the 2012, keep that as the fallback position..
Also, see if there are any new 2012 leftovers around the area.
As mentioned, they are supposedly dealing on the '13's and with incentives it could make for an attractive deal on brand new car in your choice of color and options.
1. No way you will get $13,500 for a 2 yr old Corolla on trade. The Corolla is rapidly becoming uncompetitive against much better compact cars. They sell on reputation only. $12-12.5 is about right.
2. The dealer may show you $13k on paper to make you happy, but all that is a trade allowance. They're just shuffling numbers to sell you a car. Be careful.
3. I think the price on the 200 is pretty good. The S model is the most expensive 200 (not incl conv models). I sold them new for $25-26 transaction price. They stickered for close to $30k. There is a little room to move at under $20k.
4. Your plan is worth trying but don't get your hopes up. You're asking $2500 off the car and $1000 over wholesale for the Corolla. No dealer is that desperate to take a $3500 hit just to make a sale. If you get it, good for you.
5. The lien on the AutoCheck is a non issue. All it means is the previous owner got a bank loan to buy the car, and that bank placed a lien on it. Totally normal.
6. Run your own CarFax and AutoCheck. Pay for them yourself. You need both reports. Don't take the reports the dealer gives you. Get your own.
Hope this helps. I think the 200 is an excellent car, esp compared to a Corolla. I've sold lots of them and all my customers are happy, esp those who bought the 200S. Good luck! Let us know what you decide to do.
2. The dealer may show you $13k on paper to make you happy, but all that is a trade allowance. They're just shuffling numbers to sell you a car. Be careful.
3. I think the price on the 200 is pretty good. The S model is the most expensive 200 (not incl conv models). I sold them new for $25-26 transaction price. They stickered for close to $30k. There is a little room to move at under $20k.
4. Your plan is worth trying but don't get your hopes up. You're asking $2500 off the car and $1000 over wholesale for the Corolla. No dealer is that desperate to take a $3500 hit just to make a sale. If you get it, good for you.
5. The lien on the AutoCheck is a non issue. All it means is the previous owner got a bank loan to buy the car, and that bank placed a lien on it. Totally normal.
6. Run your own CarFax and AutoCheck. Pay for them yourself. You need both reports. Don't take the reports the dealer gives you. Get your own.
Hope this helps. I think the 200 is an excellent car, esp compared to a Corolla. I've sold lots of them and all my customers are happy, esp those who bought the 200S. Good luck! Let us know what you decide to do.
Originally Posted By: rjundi
I think just a meh as a Corolla. Its a lateral move IMHO.
Going from a bread and butter Corolla to one that does the quarter mile in 14.2 @ 100+ mph and comfortably delivers 20/31 mpg is a lateral move?
I think just a meh as a Corolla. Its a lateral move IMHO.
Going from a bread and butter Corolla to one that does the quarter mile in 14.2 @ 100+ mph and comfortably delivers 20/31 mpg is a lateral move?
Originally Posted By: Rock_Hudstone
Originally Posted By: rjundi
I think just a meh as a Corolla. Its a lateral move IMHO.
Going from a bread and butter Corolla to one that does the quarter mile in 14.2 @ 100+ mph and comfortably delivers 20/31 mpg is a lateral move?
It's a lot of car for the buck. IMO it is a tremendous upgrade!
The reason they make lots of different cars is we're all different. let the others buy a Corolla, you get what YOU want!
Originally Posted By: rjundi
I think just a meh as a Corolla. Its a lateral move IMHO.
Going from a bread and butter Corolla to one that does the quarter mile in 14.2 @ 100+ mph and comfortably delivers 20/31 mpg is a lateral move?
It's a lot of car for the buck. IMO it is a tremendous upgrade!
The reason they make lots of different cars is we're all different. let the others buy a Corolla, you get what YOU want!
Hi All, thanks for the additional info.
@bretfaz, I don't know if this matters (it sounds like you work at a Chrysler dealership), but this is a Touring with S appearance package, so the original MSRP is $3k less than the "S" model.
My intention was to offer that low-ball figure, but I don't expect to get it for that, rather, my final limits are 12.5k on my trade, 18.5k on their car, for a 6k difference. Any more than that I'm not willing to do, but a 6k loan is 100 a month for 60 months, plus interest.
After sleeping on it, I go with my same contention, that if someone wades through the 30 inches of snow we got here to look at this car between now and Thursday, so be it. If they don't, I'll take a test drive and see whats up, because it would really be awesome to have a lot more power at the pedal than I have now.
For trying other cars, I have tried an Accord (which was very meh to me), not that much else in this segment interests me (no Camry for me).
Hopefully, if I buy this car, it would last.
@bretfaz, I don't know if this matters (it sounds like you work at a Chrysler dealership), but this is a Touring with S appearance package, so the original MSRP is $3k less than the "S" model.
My intention was to offer that low-ball figure, but I don't expect to get it for that, rather, my final limits are 12.5k on my trade, 18.5k on their car, for a 6k difference. Any more than that I'm not willing to do, but a 6k loan is 100 a month for 60 months, plus interest.
After sleeping on it, I go with my same contention, that if someone wades through the 30 inches of snow we got here to look at this car between now and Thursday, so be it. If they don't, I'll take a test drive and see whats up, because it would really be awesome to have a lot more power at the pedal than I have now.
For trying other cars, I have tried an Accord (which was very meh to me), not that much else in this segment interests me (no Camry for me).
Hopefully, if I buy this car, it would last.
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