UPDATE: Electric Vehicle Conversion: Volvo S40 pump to 1984 Jeep CJ-7 stock Saginaw

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I was posting this and the thread closed so as per the last reply, here's the update:

Quick update, it's a good one, got it driving and I assume, given the amount of run time the pump has had, it's running pretty great! Here's a driving video of the first Jeep CJ-7 Fully Electric Conversion:



Listen how good the pump sounded, or rather didn't make ANY sound in the video.

Yes, of course I'm still going to drain and flush the pump (3x), if it works this well all full of crap, imagine how it's run with fresh juice!

Again, thank you guys so much for the help. After I drain and flush, I'll post another update.

- Patrick
 
Interesting approach to stop signs there buddy. But cool conversion! What parts did you use? Do you have a write up? How much did it cost? Do you have DC fast charging or just j1772?

I really wanted to EV swap my GMT400 Yukon but decided to sell it as cost was just too insane.
 
Interesting approach to stop signs there buddy. But cool conversion! What parts did you use? Do you have a write up? How much did it cost? Do you have DC fast charging or just j1772?

I really wanted to EV swap my GMT400 Yukon but decided to sell it as cost was just too insane.
Full build thread here: https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/jeep-cj-7-ev-conversion.4455457/

Basic build specs: Hyper9HV-IS motor, Orion 2 BMS, Hawkeye SCM (LV-JB - Low Voltage Junction Box), 7 Tesla Model S battery modules, bolt in, no weld or cut, 3 custom battery boxes including on the is IP66-ish, J1227 Level 2, all stock, bolt on to existing manual transmission (3rd gear only needed but hay...), fully functional Transfer Case (4-wheel drive fully preserved), manual parking brake, no retromod - just a re-power. 120 mile range, hopefully...

Cost is tricky - I made this to make into a kit to be used by installers to service the approximate 3 million existing Jeeps on the road (CJs and Wranglers ONLY).

I would guess, a couple weeks before I announce it, $42,000. for the Starter Repower Kit. AND, about a month turn around - that's the big one. A typical EVC (Electrical Vehicle Conversion) from a reputable installer shop is 18 months and by DIY is around 3.5 years.

Options will include - P/S (Volvo pump, customers' existing knuckle), Power Brakes - probably going with the iBoost route so I'll be back to hear recommendations on fluids for that as well.

Thanks for asking!
 
Lmao, this guy accelerated through the stop sign

Interesting approach to stop signs there buddy. But cool conversion! What parts did you use? Do you have a write up? How much did it cost? Do you have DC fast charging or just j1772?

I really wanted to EV swap my GMT400 Yukon but decided to sell it as cost was just too insane.

Somebody doesn't observe stop signs I see.

Really - tough crowd, tough crowd.
 
I would have done the gen 2 Prius EPS system swap if it was me. It’s a column-assisted system, and there’s plenty of them in the junkyards, it will involve some custom fabrication(make friends with someone who knows AutoCAD/Rhino and has 3D printers and/or a machine shop) but it’s a seamless experience once it’s all said and done.

But hey, you managed to pull this off with off-the-shelf parts!
 
I would have done the gen 2 Prius EPS system swap if it was me. It’s a column-assisted system, and there’s plenty of them in the junkyards, it will involve some custom fabrication(make friends with someone who knows AutoCAD/Rhino and has 3D printers and/or a machine shop) but it’s a seamless experience once it’s all said and done.

But hey, you managed to pull this off with off-the-shelf parts!
I wish I could agree with any of those points - all sounds good, none are real, never happen, stop, stop, stop.

(most of that was a man flashing back on the past 3 years and making that assumption every four or five seconds)

There are virtually no reusable parts from a junk EV that you can repurpose into your custom 280ZX that's been up on the blocks since the late 80's in your mom's backyard, other then batteries and for that model, you're going to be forced to make custom batteries or configurations anyway.

No, it ain't easy, it's the farthest thing from easy.

That being said, it was, without a doubt, the single most fun I've had with a Jeep when not off-road. I STONGLY recommend you call you mom tonight and give her the good news, you'll be over this weekend to to that 280 to your house to start on your EVC.

NOT kidding, it's a BLAST.

If you got any 'maker' in you at all, this is a test of all your strengths and a HUGE chance to get on on the largest transportation epoch change in over 100 years.

But yeah, freaking hard, very hard.
 
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Oh, A Flushing We Shall Go, A Flushing We Shall Go.... - come on, everyone, join in, you know the lyrics!

Flushed, drained, fill, repeat x 3 - super fun.



I think the biggest surprise was that the blue catch bucket had a crack in it and leaked all over the **** place...

Ok, and maybe that normally clear liquid could be that gunky from a very old knuckle AND STILL WORK.

Runs and sounds amazing now! I'll check it in a week or so but, THANKS ALL!!!

- Patrick
 
I've always tead that anything was posting this and the thread closed so as per the last reply, here's the update:

Quick update, it's a good one, got it driving and I assume, given the amount of run time the pump has had, it's running pretty great! Here's a driving video of the first Jeep CJ-7 Fully Electric Conversion:



Listen how good the pump sounded, or rather didn't make ANY sound in the video.

Yes, of course I'm still going to drain and flush the pump (3x), if it works this well all full of crap, imagine how it's run with fresh juice!

Again, thank you guys so much for the help. After I drain and flush, I'll post another update.

- Patrick

I've always read that anything Tesla doesn't play well with others. Does whatever software/hardware not care that the battery pack is from a tesla? It seems like so many vehicles today the canbus is looking for a token or system check to verify authenticity if you will.
 
I've always read that anything Tesla doesn't play well with others. Does whatever software/hardware not care that the battery pack is from a tesla? It seems like so many vehicles today the canbus is looking for a token or system check to verify authenticity if you will.
Mosltly correct - for example, the battery modules I use are all Tesla but to use them, I remove the Tesla BMS from each module and connect a pass-through connector so I can run all the modules to a central Orion 2 BMS.

As for that, everything you need to know can be dealt with via Orion BMS - cell voltages, cell temps, resistance, cooling info, silly stuff like that.

BUT, I'm also using the Tesla cooling pump - an absolutely fantastically designed pump that's also controllable with PWM so, it has 4 wires coming out of it, the usual, (+) & (-) and two other wires that control the PWM. Well they just won't tell us how to control that. SO, a bunch of like minded nerds take it upon them selves and they black-box the living **** out of it till they have a PWM table. BUT, and this this the cool part, the pump doesn't need anything, it has a fall back mode, the default mode, that just pumps when power is applied after it does a little giggle and starts. Self priming (mostly), auto off if fail BUT tries again at intervals, really, a great design.

Another one is the Octovalve - no kidding, genius engineering at every level. That took the Motivated two years to decode! AND, as cool as it is, it has almost ZERO value to the EVC market because NOBODY can make a DIY cooling system as complete and complex as Tesla.

The thing is, and I alluded to this in another response above by nthach, there is no real way to take say a 2-24 Chevy Bolt and then magically say 'Well, I'll just take everything apart to it's little bitty components and put them in my 1978 Pinto that I've been savin' for just this project and it'll all work because I'll put it in all the same places as the Chevy Bolt - I'm the smartest man ever and I deserve a medal.'.

That was NOT an attack on NTHach! - EVERYONE has that general thought - it's just so logical and 'American'; '...well, it it works in this crappy little Chevy Bolt, I can just buy a junked one and off I go!'.

Nope, not even close.

You gotta' source your entire build so that every thing talks to everything else and you can control ALL that and yes, everything is on a CAN Bus and yes, you can make and learn ALL of that, but it's hard.

BUT, there's good news: the market is really maturing and all vendors are beginning to work on a set of standards that follow OBDII and the like. So, you can buy your OBC (On Board Charger) from Elcon and your BMS from Orion and they know how to talk to each other.

Alright, I'm boring the crap out of most of you, sorry. Hope I answered that somewhere in that rambling.

- Patrick
 
Thought you guys might like to hear how the pump worked out - just listen for yourself, this is my first night drive in my all electric 1984 Jeep CJ-7.


I can barely hear it and I'm SURE, with the hood on, nobody would hear anything.
 
No matter how hard I try I cannot get excited about this sort of thing.

Electric motors just don't have the same soul and character an engine has. And only 100 miles of range?

Can't help but feel this is sacrilege.
 
You mentioned power brakes being a possible future option...

Since you've added the Volvo electric P/S pump, couldn't you just throw on a Hydroboost kit and call it a day?
 
No matter how hard I try I cannot get excited about this sort of thing.

Electric motors just don't have the same soul and character an engine has. And only 100 miles of range?

Can't help but feel this is sacrilege.
First, I'm just a visitor to your site, I always wanted a Scrambler but never wanted to deal with that little motor it came with and they were always more expensive then the CJ's I was buying. So, remember, I'm must a visitor here but, having dealt with this kind of blanket and somewhat troglodyte view of this project before, I can only say, 'ok, thanks for stopping by, please move over and make room for those that can see what's next more clearly then what was.'

Having owned Jeeps my entire adult life, I can tell you without hesitation, the soul of the Jeep most certainly doesn't reside under the hood.

The next decade will bring extradentary changes to the personal transportation sector. Not one of those future decades will see any advancement in internal combustion engines design or manufacturing.

What you, and many others in these sites, consider 'sacrilege' is rooted in fear of change.

NOTHING is more destabilizing then fear, so I get it but, embracing change is the only way to move forward in life.

If you don't get it, aren't excited about it - that's ok.

(in a NON sarcastic way) Thank you for posting!
 
Plus the price of the jeep and electricity, that buys a lot of gas. Interesting project but it doesnt do anything for me.
Really, you're equating the price of a repower to the price of gas at the pump - what?

You know this is a Jeep forum - right??? (joke)

Quick show of hands: who bought their Jeep to get good MPG?

In fact, most if not all the things we can bolt onto or add to or swap into our collective Jeeps is horrible for efficiency. Again, I sure didn't and don't think about that when I'm adding something to my Jeep.

It's impossible for me to convey how much more amazing a Jeep is when it's completely silent running.

The closest thing, and I know this hurts my arguments because it makes it sound like a toy but, imagine a 200++ HP golf cart, going 65 mph on the freeway - it feels like that.

As far as range - don't know about you but, on average, how many miles does an average person drive their rig a day - the national average for all cars is 47 miles per day.

And if you start to talk about off-road, Jeeps travel even less distance.

100 miles is a great starting point. As more of these are made and sold (fingers crossed), I'll be putting newer batteries in and more of them so getting the the low water mark of around 200 mile range (a typical Jeep range) should be an easily attainable goal.

- Patrick
 
I'm going to mention one more thing about a repower to electric that might be the ONLY reason for some of you - torque.

Electric motors generate 100% of their torque at 1 RPM.

That's right, you get to 'live' in your power band at all times, at all speeds, even on Wednesdays.

Let's make a quick list before my appt to get my Jeep registered at CA DMV.

Top reasons to consider a repower kit:
  • Torque
  • Cost per mile ($0.02/mi. vs ~$0.38/mi.)
  • Maintenance costs - going from around 200 moving parts to less then 7 - no brainer.
  • Vacuum hoses - a thing of the past
  • Smog checks - gone
  • Silent running
  • Stronger Winches - higher volts and amps means smaller winch motors and stronger
  • Tune-ups - gone
  • Babe magnet (well, only if you're driveling around Ga Tech or Cal Poly or ANY vo-tech school)
  • Torque

I am not making ANY plea to get converts but, this is a reasonable list of considerations if thinking about a DIY version or buying one.
 
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