Uninstalling Remote Start

[JHZR2]

I had an aftermarket remote start installed in my Jeep Grand Cherokee. It would go out of its way to try and lock my out. Get out of the car with engine running to check the mail and it would lock the doors.

I can see how that would be frustrating. I have the Uber simple keyless retrofit into one of my Mercedes diesels, and it has been excellent.

 

[97prizm]

My 96 Ram CTD has a remote start under the dash, and an antenna on the glass.

It’s an MT so I don’t really want remote start. I wouldn’t use it anyway. We have one on our odyssey and have used it maybe three times ever.

I can’t find a manual, and can’t seem to get it to work, so that validates that I’d like to remove it.

The wiring is intense.

View attachment 225128

And has a double relay related with the starter.


View attachment 225129

OK, here are the wiring diagrams. The only thing I could find anywhere:


View attachment 225130View attachment 225131

The good news I guess is that I know the wires that work the locks. And have some power to tap. That will simplify the install of a standard dumb keyless entry.

But is there anything else I should consider, particularly with the removal of those ignition relays, to avoid breaking, or frying, or getting a no-start scenario? I think I’ll need to reconnect OEM wiring to remove the relays. But I think it must also be set up to allow them to be bypassed for normal use.

Any takes based upon these diagrams?

Thanks!

View attachment 225133

Is it connected to its own extra fuse under the hood? If so could you just pull that fuse and render the remote start non-operating while not affecting other systems?

 

[JHZR2]

Is it connected to its own extra fuse under the hood? If so could you just pull that fuse and render the remote start non-operating while not affecting other systems?

That’s not the point though. It’s connected to some of the right stuff. Power and door lock controls to be specific. I want to pull the current system and swap in a proper remote keyless which I’ve done on my older Mercedes before.

 

[mk378]

Unplug all the wires from the "brain" box and remove it. Confirm that the car still works properly; it almost always will. These systems are usually designed so that the likely eventual failure of the "brain" won't disable the car.

Then you can proceed to strip out the extra relays and wiring and tape up or splice the stock wires that have been tapped or cut. In your case make note of which wires are for the locks so you can install the keyless that you want.

 

[Nukeman7]

That’s not the point though. It’s connected to some of the right stuff. Power and door lock controls to be specific. I want to pull the current system and swap in a proper remote keyless which I’ve done on my older Mercedes before.

If you haven't selected the new remote keyless entry system to replace the existing remote start unit, I highly recommend the Avital 2101L system. It is inexpensive, simple to install, and most importantly, reliable as a brick. Avital is a DEI brand and uses high quality transmitter fobs with durable contact button switches that won't wear out easily like the generic no-name systems.

AVITAL 2101L Keyless Entry System

 

[JTK]

I had a parasitic draw on my 2015 Nissan Versa if the vehicle sat for more than a week or two. This is a base model Versa sedan with power nothing, but came with a Nissan dealer installed aftermarket remote start kit when it was purchased new. I didn't even know where the unit lived until I reached up under the dash and felt it. It's a CM7200. I simply unplugged the 6-8 multi-pin connectors off the unit, tucked the harnesses back in the wad they were under the dash and as @mk378 said above, the vehicle functions as normal. I have no more parasitic draw.