Under 6 Volts on my VW GTI Battery

Joined
Oct 28, 2008
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I went out to start my car this morning and got some strange error messages. No start.

Put my meter on the battery and it was 5 Volts and change. I have it on my CTEK charger now.

But 5 Volts? Is the battery internally damaged?
 
If it fell that much from when it last started the day before or even a whole month ago it's no good. Get a new battery. If you have a costco membership get an interstate battery. If not the everstart platinum and diehard platinums are great. I'm done with duralast those expensive batteries last just months after the warranty ends and are a scam. Happened two times in a row, spent over 200 on each just for them to last only months after the warranty ended, never again. Have an interstate now since I have a membership.
 
The car is about a year old and under warranty. Unfortunately, I think I will have to have it towed to the dealer.
 
The car is about a year old and under warranty. Unfortunately, I think I will have to have it towed to the dealer.
That's good, free battery. When the battery failed on my escalade under warranty they came out and changed it and they came in under an hour. Just call the dealer directly it's what I did. Oddly enough the roadside assistance vehicle from the dealer was also a current gen escalade esv.
 
When the battery “failed” on my Tiguan a couple of weeks ago it generated about eight DTC, some pending and a couple causing an actual MIL. Mostly were low voltage at this module or that, it also said the right rear corner lamp was out (it wasn’t). I replaced the battery and all is well again.

But what was interesting was that VCDS showed the battery at 13.8 volts with the engine running and 12.5 with it off. Now it is up to something like 14.5 volts running. I was a bit surprised at how early the vehicle flagged the battery as failed. It started okay and the lights didn’t dim or anything. I’m a little shocked yours let it degrade down that far and left you stranded. Maybe it was something catastrophic. Is it an EFB or AGM?
 
I went out to start my car this morning and got some strange error messages. No start.

Put my meter on the battery and it was 5 Volts and change. I have it on my CTEK charger now.

But 5 Volts? Is the battery internally damaged?
I’m curious but do you do a lot of short trips with the car? I feel like short trips (and very hot climates) contribute to a lot of premature battery failures (although this is extremely premature!)
Both of my cars are still on their original battery and my Civic is 9 years old and my Corvette is 7 years old. I usually get about 7-9 years out of my batteries but I also don’t short trip them at all so every time I drive the battery should be getting a full charge from the alternator.
 
When the battery “failed” on my Tiguan a couple of weeks ago it generated about eight DTC, some pending and a couple causing an actual MIL.

Yup it is going to be lit up like a Christmas tree with everything for ESP to Tire pressure, but the cool thing is turning it lock to lock a could of times will clear it all...

My EFB went form basically fine to NOT fine in a day of two..
 
I’m curious but do you do a lot of short trips with the car? I feel like short trips (and very hot climates) contribute to a lot of premature battery failures (although this is extremely premature!)
Both of my cars are still on their original battery and my Civic is 9 years old and my Corvette is 7 years old. I usually get about 7-9 years out of my batteries but I also don’t short trip them at all so every time I drive the battery should be getting a full charge from the alternator.
No, not a lot of short trips, per se. I have had issues with the infotainment system, etc. Maybe I have a parasitic draw somewhere.
 
When the battery “failed” on my Tiguan a couple of weeks ago it generated about eight DTC, some pending and a couple causing an actual MIL. Mostly were low voltage at this module or that, it also said the right rear corner lamp was out (it wasn’t). I replaced the battery and all is well again.

But what was interesting was that VCDS showed the battery at 13.8 volts with the engine running and 12.5 with it off. Now it is up to something like 14.5 volts running. I was a bit surprised at how early the vehicle flagged the battery as failed. It started okay and the lights didn’t dim or anything. I’m a little shocked yours let it degrade down that far and left you stranded. Maybe it was something catastrophic. Is it an EFB or AGM?
Looks like an AGM
 
Will it start with a jump? Towing it would be my last resort. Great way to have your car damaged.
Flat bed. It is likely better than jump starting a totally dead battery and then have the alternator running at 100% trying to charge a completely flat battery. That could damage the alternator. Alternators are to supply power to the car, and maintain a charged battery. Making it charge a flat battery puts additional stress on the alternator. My mechanic/technician tells me he often gets collector cars in for alternator replacement because the owners often jump start their infrequently driven cars with flat batteries. Wears out the alternator after a few times. He tells them to buy a battery tender. :)
 
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I may take a battery from another car, so that I can drive to the dealer. I'd put the bad battery back in before leaving.
 
Have you called the dealer to see if they can send someone to you with a new battery? Sounds like something internal failed in the battery, I had a similar battery voltage issue with my old Mazda3. I jumped it a couple times and drove it like that and the alternator failed a couple weeks later, so don't drive it like that! Lesson learned.
 
I may take a battery from another car, so that I can drive to the dealer. I'd put the bad battery back in before leaving.
Did the dealer you called tell you there's no roadside assistance available? Most will send a vehicle out for a simple battery change unless a battery change requires too much disassembly or it's in an unsafe place. If not they'd always have to pay for a tow and that's far more expensive.
 
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