1997 Suburban K2500. I have a choise between Neapco, AZ Duralast, and Precision. With the Precision I also have the option of non greasable, greasable via standard fitting at the yoke, or greasable via a needle fitting on one of the caps. Which would you choose?
Grease for u-joints...Is a super tacky grease desireable or any grease OK? Moly fortified, or no moly? I've been using amsoil moly grease, but every time I grease them the seem to take a lot of grease like it is being slung out. Would the tacky grease stop this?
u joints...brands and grease type
- Thread starter another Todd
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Are the ones from A-Zone Chinese? If so I would not even consider those.
Precision U-joints don't seem to hold up for me.
Neapco is a little better IMO.
If you can find Spicer get those.
of all those you listed, Precision and Neapco will do fine. the duralast.. not an option.
Spicer.. much more preferred for me.
get greaseable!!!!!! standard fitting at the yoke.
I use Valvoline synpower grease in my ujoints.
Moly fortified is a plus, the amsoil is perfect.
I've used the Mobil-1 a lot until I ran out and just keep using the Synpower.
See if Fast UnderCar can get you Spicer.
Otherwise I have not had any issues with Duralast or Master Pro (O'reilly) suspension parts, so I'd assume their u-joints are OK as well.
Spicer are good.
Precision Super Strength are good,the greasable ones have a small regular zerk fitting in one of the caps no needle fitting.
Neapco Brute Force are Made in U.S.A. and are good joints,the regular versions are Chinese rubbish.
No Chinese junk for U joints.
I've always gone Spicer when possible and have been satisfied. The NAPA units are OK, but the casting always looked rougher to me. I suspected these were Chinese.
I would go with the unit that has the zerk on the base of the joint itself, make sure to install it so that the grease fitting is being compressed when the driveshaft is loaded. If you clock it wrong, they are prone to failure under heavy load.
When you install them, really clean the bores and grooves in the joint. A bit tedious, but everything will be better - just do it.
Then lube them for assembly.
Once installed , rap around the area with a hammer - it helps seat things perfectly.
You can often have a slightly tight feeling U joint that loosens up after a few hammer taps.
I can't readily find Spicers locally, so the Presision Super Strength gets the nod. A lot of different camps on greasable vs non-greasable.
The super strength is a good joint, I just got some for a F150 and now it now has a needle grease fitting. This means either using a needle adapter for $10 or picking up some small zerks from the hardware store, either is no problem.
M2c on the whole grease/no grease thing.
If you are not big into maintenance just doing OCI and rely on dealers or garages to service the cars other repairs chances are the parts be them U joints, ball joints, tie rods etc will live much longer using non grease type.
These are the reasons IMO
There is a good chance the mechanic will not even see them so they will not get serviced.
Or they will not get serviced every time or they wont find them all.
They won’t bother to wipe of the dirty zerk fitting or the dirty end of their grease gun
You have no idea what quality and type of grease they used.
They will probably use an air powered grease gun and may blow the seals out.
All this is a recipe for short life of the parts.
If you do your own servicing then you have control over all these things and the joints could conceivably last infinitum in the car.
I use a moly content grease for the front end parts and a non moly for U joints, Mobil 1 seems to work great in U joints and is readily available.
I service them at 6 mo intervals and have never had a greasable part fail that had been maintained properly even operating under the most miserable conditions.
The area the vehicle operates in also plays a major roll in the life of parts. In tough climates like the salt belt will lots of salt water from the roads properly greased parts have from my experience a longer life span. In a warmer climate and smooth roads the non greasable part should live a long life and be no trouble at all.
Kestas
Staff member
Kluberplex BEM 34-132
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=212408
Well, I bought the greasable Precision super strength, then returned them for the non-greasable type. The greasable ones have a needle zerk in the center of the cap...which would be covered by the retainer on the transmission side. The rear one would be OK as the cap with the grease fitting would fit into the yoke which does'nt use the retainer, but I don't want one with a fitting and one without.
I was on the spicer site, and they recommend the non-greasable ones unless you are extreemely anal about greasing them every 3,000 miles. They also specifically recommend Chevron Ultra EP #2 grease. So, I bought some...only $3.15 a tube. 70 lb Timekin OK load rating, extreme pressure, slightly tacky. Not recommended for wheel bearing, but it's going in my u-joints.
Originally Posted By: pottymouth
I've always gone Spicer when possible and have been satisfied. The NAPA units are OK, but the casting always looked rougher to me. I suspected these were Chinese.
I would go with the unit that has the zerk on the base of the joint itself, make sure to install it so that the grease fitting is being compressed when the driveshaft is loaded. If you clock it wrong, they are prone to failure under heavy load.
Originally Posted By: another Todd
Well, I bought the greasable Precision super strength, then returned them for the non-greasable type. The greasable ones have a needle zerk in the center of the cap...which would be covered by the retainer on the transmission side. The rear one would be OK as the cap with the grease fitting would fit into the yoke which does'nt use the retainer, but I don't want one with a fitting and one without.
I was on the spicer site, and they recommend the non-greasable ones unless you are extreemely anal about greasing them every 3,000 miles. They also specifically recommend Chevron Ultra EP #2 grease. So, I bought some...only $3.15 a tube. 70 lb Timekin OK load rating, extreme pressure, slightly tacky. Not recommended for wheel bearing, but it's going in my u-joints.
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Originally Posted By: RH+G
I never buy greaseable always non-greasable. The non-greasable ones always last way longer than any of the greaseable ones
Never had a problem with neapco or precision. I dont think u can even find spicers one anymore.
They will be fine.
My dad bought some greasable spicer U-joints for the new driveshaft on the jeep, and to replace the ones on the front also.
Quote:
The greasable ones have a needle zerk in the center of the cap...which would be covered by the retainer on the transmission side
Hmmm, I didn't notice that, neither did the parts counter guy when I showed him the issue. Non greasable joints were installed this morning, and not a month too soon. Of the 8 caps, one was completely dry, and one was dry and completely rusted, although the rollers were intact surprisingly. The other two caps on the same joint had lube, but had grooved the cross bearing surface. The other joint (tranny side) still had lube in all caps and looked OK but was replaced, of course.
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