Two years between oil changes

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M1 15w50 is only available in EP now right? That'll last two years easy in your app.
 
You should do a one-time analysis to see if the oil is getting used up. If you are getting lots of condensates then two years might be too much. Ten miles may not be enough to fully heat the oil.

I think two years should be fine if the oil is heated every time the engine is started. Analysis will confirm, otherwise there's just no way to be sure. Sounds like the value of the engine AND the oil would merit the cost of an analysis.

- Glenn
 
I too would vote for the UOA. Without it, we're all just speculating. It would be very cheap info, especially in this case. With a car like this, all the usual arguments about the cost justification (or lack thereof) in normal applications simply don't apply. After a UOA, you will know whether or not you're pushing it with this car-oil combination. You might also, as a bonus, detect some other potentially troublesome problem before it gets out of hand.
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A UOA would be best to know. however, there are a couple of UOAs with a few years posted on them from fellow BITOGers that see similiar service of short mileage.
 
Fuel dilution could be a real issue too. Just a thought, especially since it looks like most of your miles are warm-up and with all the stuff you're cramming into those cylinders I bet you're trying to stay on the rich side.

- Glenn
 
Since yours is a "non standard" type of car, I'd be inclined to do UOA's on general principle.

You also are putting "hard" miles in so called "normal" driving.

Of course your performance driving is probably just this side/short of explosion/implosion.
 
Bigbad bowtie I don't know what hrg is so I don't think it was me.
In response to some of the replies I have a thermostat on the oil cooler and it brings the oil up to 180 pretty fast about 6 mile's of driving at 1500 rpm. After it reaches 180 then it begins circulating through the oil cooler but a short blast through the gears will shoot the temp on the oil to 240. Someone mentioned running rich. Yes in order to keep detonation down it runs at 11:80 afr at 20psi boost but while cruising it is 14:50 afr. Tuning is done with a Accel DFI Gen.7 with wide band option.
Where do I get the UOA I think this would be a good idea. I had to replace the bearing in 5000 miles they were down to the copper. This is a hard working engine and that is why in the past I have changed every year. I think the UOA would help me decide what to do. Thanks everyone for your help it is greatly appreciated.
 
I'm not changing the oil in my mom's car until it's got 2 years on it, and will post the analysis results here next summer (July 2006 will be two years since it was last changed)

She only drives about 3k a year, so I felt it was a waste to change synthetic oil so early. We've seen reports on here which are beyond one year and the oil looked fine, so I'm confident her report will be ok. (probably not stellar, but certainly ok)
 
I have a show car that is only driven in the summer months. Each time that it is started it is driven 10 miles or more. I average about 1500 miles a year and use Mobil-1 15-50 full syn.
I was changing every year but last time went two years or about 3000 miles. Should I go back to changing every year. This engine is a supercharged and Nitrous oxide injected 406 displacement chevy with a 10 quart oil pan and oil cooler and is driven extremely hard
I feel guilty going two years but dropping 10 quarts of full synthetic at 1500 miles seems like a waste. Would like to hear someone else opinion.
 
With the synth., that's totally fine. Yes, you're right it is a total waste dumping it after 1500 miles. I would even try 3 years to be honest with you....
 
Mom's Dodge van only sees 500 miles a year. It gets a Delo 400 change every other year, still a waste of hardly used oil, but it is carbed, not FI, so fuel dilution may be an issue.

BMW currently recommends every two years if the oil monitor has not indicated need for a change.
 
Patman "I'm not changing the oil in my mom's car until it's got 2 years on it, and will post the analysis results here next summer (July 2006 will be two years since it was last changed)

She only drives about 3k a year, so I felt it was a waste to change synthetic oil so early. We've seen reports on here which are beyond one year and the oil looked fine, so I'm confident her report will be ok. (probably not stellar, but certainly ok)"

I can't wait to see it! make sure to get the sample nice and hot before draining, but I don't need to remind ya
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After you do a uoa, if you pass it to Terry Dyson he might suggest using Lube Control for oxidation control in your off-season. It might also help with fuel dilution, too. It sounds like you're on the right track and going three years might work if the uoa number are there.
 
I certainly support the UOA as this is a non standard car.

Might I throw in the suggestion of using Mobil Delvac 1 / T&SUV. 5w-40.

Definately get Terry Dyson to analyse your UOA report. He is a site sponsor as well. He has had a lot of experience with high performance as well as standard vehicles.

Whilst low mileage is a factor in the time between changes I think once you have a vehicle that does very short trips and rarely is warmed up then 2 years is out of the question. Synthetic or not.
From what you have described this is not the case, however, the probable fuel dilution may be a limiting factor.
 
Similar situation with me.......

Am considering using Amsoil full synthetic in a mechanically sound 96 Camry. It sees around 4K highway miles per year and is always thoroughly warm before shut-down. No dilution problem here.

I called Amsoil Tech about the one year drain cycle and they said do it. If not, oxygen will cause the oil to form sludge.

I'am wondering Gents - Seems like a waste.

Knowledgeable replys are very welcome.
 
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