OK, so the Lexus is suffering from brake squeal - the PBR Metal Masters I have are being more chatty than usual, so I picked up a set of Monroe Ceramics with the complete hardware kit since the shims are shot - but Lexus charges almost $60 for a shim kit, I got the pads for $45. The rotors were turned when the PBRs went in and they were within the machining limit when I pulled them off. Right now, the rotors aren't scored but do I need to have them turned again or no? Can I ask a machine shop to do a light skim on them for me?
Turning rotors when swapping out pads?
- Thread starter nthach
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I don't get rotors turned anymore, I keep using them or replace them. If you have no pedal pulsation, and they are thick enough slap in the new pads, i do sometimes sand them a bit by hand. Even with light grooves i still use them, more surface area !
I would just take of any glaze with emery paper and call them done. Clean with brake cleaner.
Keep an eye out for Advance discount codes and you can obtain some new rotors for a great price.
The minimum thickness is usually stamped right into the rotor so you technically should measure them to determine if they are any good.
If they have no signs of pulsation I'd consider reusing them. Bed them in carefully by following the procedure outlined here:
http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm
If they have no signs of pulsation I'd consider reusing them. Bed them in carefully by following the procedure outlined here:
http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm
i always turn or replace rotors when doing a brake job. the only 2 times i didnt i had pulsating a year later, with pads that still looked amazing
At the shop, I always tell the customer that the rotor/drum should be turned or replaced, depending on condition. That's a matter of covering my [censored].
But on my own vehicles, I just turn rotors based on whether or not I think they need it. If there's a pulsation or the rotor looks real nasty, I have it turned or replace it. If it looks pretty much ok and doesn't pulsate... I just swap the pads. I figure that the worst case scenario is that I'll have to get the rotors turned later. But that's never been a problem so far.
Also I don't 'break in' pads. I don't see the point. I just swap the pads and drive normally. Sometimes if I'm at the shop, I'll take a scotchbrite pad on a die grinder and break up the glaze on the rotors. But I don't think it really matters.
But on my own vehicles, I just turn rotors based on whether or not I think they need it. If there's a pulsation or the rotor looks real nasty, I have it turned or replace it. If it looks pretty much ok and doesn't pulsate... I just swap the pads. I figure that the worst case scenario is that I'll have to get the rotors turned later. But that's never been a problem so far.
Also I don't 'break in' pads. I don't see the point. I just swap the pads and drive normally. Sometimes if I'm at the shop, I'll take a scotchbrite pad on a die grinder and break up the glaze on the rotors. But I don't think it really matters.
Roughen up those rotors.
Get an EVEN finish all over.
Are they still good? Who knows?
For some reason you did not give any mileage data, so we can't tell.
Get an EVEN finish all over.
Are they still good? Who knows?
For some reason you did not give any mileage data, so we can't tell.
I used to have them machined every brake change when rotors had some meat on them.
The two new rotors I put on last didn't even have enough extra material for machining.
If there is pulsing or they are warped - replace.
Grooved - Replace.
Air channels / web full of heavy scale and rust - replace. You need that heat dissipation and having a rotor collapse during a panic stop would be a bad thing.
Signs of hot spots - replace.
Smooth, lightly grooved or pitted - Hit 'em with a medium/coarse belt sander to rough them up.
Always check for frozen caliper pistons, hardware and sleeves. A lot of folks picture stuck calipers as frozen pistons only. The caliper has to be able to slide or the rotors will warp and you will have a spongy brake pedal and uneven pad wear.
Brake dust should be a secondary consideration. Use pads that will STOP the vehicle.
More info than what was asked but other folks read these posts.
The two new rotors I put on last didn't even have enough extra material for machining.
If there is pulsing or they are warped - replace.
Grooved - Replace.
Air channels / web full of heavy scale and rust - replace. You need that heat dissipation and having a rotor collapse during a panic stop would be a bad thing.
Signs of hot spots - replace.
Smooth, lightly grooved or pitted - Hit 'em with a medium/coarse belt sander to rough them up.
Always check for frozen caliper pistons, hardware and sleeves. A lot of folks picture stuck calipers as frozen pistons only. The caliper has to be able to slide or the rotors will warp and you will have a spongy brake pedal and uneven pad wear.
Brake dust should be a secondary consideration. Use pads that will STOP the vehicle.
More info than what was asked but other folks read these posts.
It seems most places want to sell you new rotors rather than turn your old ones.
I just did the brakes on my Sonata. Local places wanted $12 - $18 per rotor to turn them. I ended up getting new Raybestos rotors for the front for $27 shipped each and rear rotors from Advance for $24 each after tax.
If it's a car where rotors are very expensive or hard to get, then turning them would seem feasible.
I just did the brakes on my Sonata. Local places wanted $12 - $18 per rotor to turn them. I ended up getting new Raybestos rotors for the front for $27 shipped each and rear rotors from Advance for $24 each after tax.
If it's a car where rotors are very expensive or hard to get, then turning them would seem feasible.
IMO the replacement rotors have NEVER been as good as the originals
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Originally Posted By: stephen9666
It seems most places want to sell you new rotors rather than turn your old ones.
It may be a little more expensive initially, but I think it's a lot easier to just have the new parts there and ready to install once the old ones are removed. Rather than taking them off, getting yourself cleaned up enough to drive the wife's car to the parts store/machine shop, dropping them off or waiting for them to be turned, etc., the price difference is usually well worth just buying new ones and having them there to swap once the old ones are off.
It seems most places want to sell you new rotors rather than turn your old ones.
It may be a little more expensive initially, but I think it's a lot easier to just have the new parts there and ready to install once the old ones are removed. Rather than taking them off, getting yourself cleaned up enough to drive the wife's car to the parts store/machine shop, dropping them off or waiting for them to be turned, etc., the price difference is usually well worth just buying new ones and having them there to swap once the old ones are off.
How many times can drums be 're-surfaced', or how many times 'should' they be, if they come with enough material?
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
How many times can drums be 're-surfaced', or how many times 'should' they be, if they come with enough material?
You have to have them mic'd of course, but the Toyota counter parts guy told me you can get two cuts with theirs if you get them before they are scored. The VW guy told me not to have theirs cut at all. Hardened steel, according to him, and not to be resurfaced just replaced. FWIW
OOps -my response was for rotors not drums.
How many times can drums be 're-surfaced', or how many times 'should' they be, if they come with enough material?
You have to have them mic'd of course, but the Toyota counter parts guy told me you can get two cuts with theirs if you get them before they are scored. The VW guy told me not to have theirs cut at all. Hardened steel, according to him, and not to be resurfaced just replaced. FWIW
OOps -my response was for rotors not drums.
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