Turkey baster method

[KlubMarcus]

TB flushes are great. Clean and simple.
They do a LOT of good, even in brake/clutch systems.

Especially for P/S where you get thorough circulation it makes a lot of sense. I like the idea of gently refreshing the fluid rather than abruptly purging everything out (and disturbing a hose connection) and filling fresh.

Here's my turkey baster change of the Power Steering Fluid in a 2008 Nissan Altima 2.5 S. I empty and re-fill the reservoir 3x within a week of driving. The PS pump keeps the fluid mixed when the engine is on, you can see this at the end of the video. This is how I get rid of the odd bottle of Dexron VI compatible ATF.

 

[demarpaint]

Every two years I use a turkey baster to get most of the brake fluid out of the master cylinder and then fill it. Then I follow the order in the shop manual for bleeding each caliper. I drain about 8+/- ounces of brake fluid from each caliper and call it a day.

 

[Tikka]

Hi.
I use the turkey baster to empty the power steering reservoir on my Jeep. I do not have the confidence to go removing power steering lines to thoroughly change the fluid. I guess that periodically emptying the reservoir and replacing with clean fluid is better than nothing.

I am not sure how hydraulic fluid in a system holds up over time. Mine operates the cooling fan as well as the steering. I have never seen it mentioned in a service schedule - for my jeep at least.

 

[vwmaniaman]

When I bleed brakes I have learned to never go beyond my normal pedal height on a already used master cylinder. Otherwise you take a chance at tearing the seals on the ridges that have developed in the master cylinder. Works good for me.

 

[Ihatetochangeoil]

I do not touch the brake pedal when bleeding brakes by myself. I use a Motive power bleeder; use a new washer on the MC cap every time and don't exceed 20 psi on a plastic reservoir. The 1st time you use the power bleeder it has paid for itself; with 4 vehicles I've lost count of how many times I've used it...Speed bleeders on the wheel cylinders are awesome.

 

[Shel_B]

I did it often with new cars. With older cars that were purchased used, a full flush was in order then followed by the baster method at somewhat regular intervals, about 2X per year. Since all the used fluid isn't removed with this method, frequent partial changes seemed appropriate.

 

[himemsys]

I don't use a literal turkey baster. I bought an oil extracting pump from Blackstone. Sadly, the hose won't fit in any of my dipsticks, but I ended up repurposing the pump by buying a bunch of hose, cutting short lengths, putting them in labeled ziplock gallon bags (CRV Brake, Civic PSF, etc) and use them for periodic extraction and replacement of brake and power steering fluids. Having a specific hose for each application keeps away the cross contamination.

 

[Snagglefoot]

Hi.
I use the turkey baster to empty the power steering reservoir on my Jeep. I do not have the confidence to go removing power steering lines to thoroughly change the fluid. I guess that periodically emptying the reservoir and replacing with clean fluid is better than nothing.

I am not sure how hydraulic fluid in a system holds up over time. Mine operates the cooling fan as well as the steering. I have never seen it mentioned in a service schedule - for my jeep at least.

I understand your point. Lots of people are hesitant to crack a bleeder screw. I was using the baster method for 12 years with my Chevy truck. I found the fluid was getting darker quicker with time. It would turn a dark green color. Finally, one day I lost 1/2 of the brake circuit and the brake peddle went soft. First I bled all four corners. The fluid coming out of the calipers was the same dark green. I bled it until clear brake fluid came out, then changed the master brake cylinder. I then bled the bubbles out and now I have a brake reservoir with clear fluid which looks strange on a thirteen year old vehicle. The old reservoir had bits of rubber residue probably from the worn cups. I probably left it too long and should have replaced the master brake cylinder when the fluid was turning green every 6 months. Here is what the brake fluid looked like, coming out of the bleeder before the fresh brake fluid reached it.

 

[wpod]

Brake fluid doesn't circulate and for P/S it dilutes the wear products and refreshes the oil .

 

[CheezWhiz]

We went with missionary for our first but I was pretty tired for our second and the turkey baster worked just fine. Boy and a girl, respectively.

 

[JeffKeryk]

The MityVac is great for emptying reservoirs.
For P/S, I MityVac out the return line until it sucks air. Then add fluid to the reservoir and suck it through.
When almost done, let the reservoir level drop low, that way replacing return line is less messy.
Easy peasey.


I flush brake systems the old fashioned way. The Motive Bleeder is amazing. Corvette C2 and C3 disc brakes are notoriously impossible to bleed; the Motive Bleeder will give you a rock hard pedal.

 

[BHopkins]

I can't state strongly enough how much I dislike using a turkey baster to extract brake fluid and p/s fluid. to say that a turkey baster drips too much is a huge understatement. The fluid runs out . I have to use my fingertip to plug the end, between the reservoir that is being emptied and the waste container.

A much, much better choice is a 60 ml veterinary syringe with a short length of tubing on the end. They are so much less prone to dripping. It is easier to control the amount of fluid being extracted. Unlike a turkey baster, there is no bulb that comes off when it is squeezed too much. By using different lengths of tubing on the end, I can get down lower into a reservoir than can be done with a turkey baster.

I keep a few of them in my toolbox, one for brake fluid, one for p/s fluid, and another for flushing our sunroof drains. I buy them at the local Cal Ranch store. When I lived in Kentucky I got them at Rural King. They can also be found at Tractor Supply, IFA, or any other farm and ranch supply store. And of course Amazon.

 

[NitroM3]

Its not a bad idea if you started to do it sooner in the service. But the only way to see if you are wasting your time is pull and test a sample at the furthest caliper and compare it with the master cylinder reservoir.
I suppose anything is better then nothing , but please dont throw up the dilution formula because when it comes to brake fluid because moisture pressures and vacuum is not part of the formula .

BTW I do FREE brake fluid testing and a cup of fresh brew of coffee ... just pop on over to my house anytime. LOL

I went out to do a test and pictures to post and got a surprise. You can see that I check the brake fluid regularly. So I am going to do the reservoir fluid replacement only. For the fun of it. And test the results in a month. I would do a complete proper fluid replacement but I am getting ready for a complete brake upgrade and the fluid I use is Amzoil so sorta pricey for using it as an experiment replacing only the reservoir fluid. . I will even use my Turkey baster instead of the tool in the picture.


Although I have a MityVac I now use a Phoenix Max Pro Brake bleeder. Although not in any Factory service manual nor All-Data or for that matter any service manual that I am aware of, since I first tried it I now always use it as I personally have found it to be the best system ever!
Some of you other mechanics and Auto Tech should check it out and maybe try it?

 

[Shel_B]

Although I have a MityVac I now use a Phoenix Max Pro Brake bleeder. Although not in any Factory service manual nor All-Data or for that matter any service manual that I am aware of, since I first tried it I now always use it as I personally have found it to be the best system ever!
Some of you other mechanics and Auto Tech should check it out and maybe try it?

I've been using a system similar to the one you've pictured for about a year.

 

[Ihatetochangeoil]

Its not a bad idea if you started to do it sooner in the service. But the only way to see if you are wasting your time is pull and test a sample at the furthest caliper and compare it with the master cylinder reservoir.
I suppose anything is better then nothing , but please dont throw up the dilution formula because when it comes to brake fluid because moisture pressures and vacuum is not part of the formula .

BTW I do FREE brake fluid testing and a cup of fresh brew of coffee ... just pop on over to my house anytime. LOL

I went out to do a test and pictures to post and got a surprise. You can see that I check the brake fluid regularly. So I am going to do the reservoir fluid replacement only. For the fun of it. And test the results in a month. I would do a complete proper fluid replacement but I am getting ready for a complete brake upgrade and the fluid I use is Amzoil so sorta pricey for using it as an experiment replacing only the reservoir fluid. . I will even use my Turkey baster instead of the tool in the picture.


Although I have a MityVac I now use a Phoenix Max Pro Brake bleeder. Although not in any Factory service manual nor All-Data or for that matter any service manual that I am aware of, since I first tried it I now always use it as I personally have found it to be the best system ever!
Some of you other mechanics and Auto Tech should check it out and maybe try it?

I would NOT use a Phoenix (or any other brand) reverse bleeder on any vehicle with ABS. You can clog up and block unserviceable filters in the ABS module: https://www.brakebleeder.com/preventing-damage-abs-modulators-brake-pad-replacement/ I find it absolutely incredulous that the same company who has on their website a tech blog warning about depressing a caliper piston too quickly so as not to send dirty fluid back thru the ABS module actually sells a reverse bleeder which will do just what they advise against.
What I do when using my Motive bleeder is 1) Use a veterinary syringe to suck all fluid (that can be reached) out of the MC and replace with new brake fluid completely full to nearly overflowing, then 2) Jack the vehicle at all 4 corners to access the bleeder screws. Starting at the right rear, take plastic radiator hose clamp pliers https://www.amazon.com/Juvale-Pack-...words=Hose+Clamp+Pliers&qid=1629660023&sr=8-9 and pinch shut the rubber line going to the wheel cylinder. This blocks contaminated old fluid from going up the line to the ABS module and the master cylinder. 3) THEN attach a bleeder hose to the bleeder, open the bleeder and take a pry bar, big screwdriver or C clamp and force the wheel cylinder to seat. I do this fast and hard, so hopefully, the contaminants don't just "settle" to the bottom. Close the bleeder screw and repeat at the other three corners. Now you have most all the contaminated fluid out of the wheel cylinders and the master cylinder full of clean fluid. 4) Fill the Motive power bleeder with whatever fluid you're going to use and connect it to the master cylinder. (BTW, I used to use Amsoil fluid, but it's kind of pricey, I found Bosch Esi6 to be better fluid (if you compare specs, and less expensive). Pump the Motive bleeder to 15-18 psi (do NOT exceed 20 psi on a plastic MC) and again, start at the right rear and open the bleeder screw again (with a bleeder hose connected). The only dirty fluid left in the system is in the lines themselves, so it shouldn't take more than 4-6-8 ounces drained to get to clear fluid. Repeat at all 4 corners to your heart's content.
Tech tip: I have followed Trav's advice. The first time you bleed brakes on any vehicle that is new or new to you, when you have the rubber hose to the wheel cylinder clamped off, completely remove the bleeder screw and carefully apply anti-seize to the threads. Next time you bleed, you will thank yourself.

 

[NitroM3]

Well that would be you ^^^
What appears another report from a member that has apparently NOT used a product but knows all about it?

However why not call them (you) direct with what you posted or better yet email it to them so you can post up their reply!

If I respond again today I am sure I will get a time out from the moderators...

https://www.brakebleeder.com/

Contact Information​

https://www.brakebleeder.com/company/contact/​

Phoenix Systems​

1076 East Commerce Dr #400​

St. George, UT 84790​

888-749-7977​

*Our Business Hours are Monday through Friday 8 am – 5 pm Mountain Time

*Our Technical Support Hours are Monday through Friday 9 am to 12 pm and 2 pm to 4 pm Mountain Time

 

[Ihatetochangeoil]

Well that would be you ^^^
What appears another report from a member that has apparently NOT used a product but knows all about it?

However why not call them (you) direct with what you posted or better yet email it to them so you can post up their reply!

If I respond again today I am sure I will get a time out from the moderators...

https://www.brakebleeder.com/

Contact Information​

https://www.brakebleeder.com/company/contact/​

Phoenix Systems​

1076 East Commerce Dr #400​

St. George, UT 84790​

888-749-7977​

*Our Business Hours are Monday through Friday 8 am – 5 pm Mountain Time

*Our Technical Support Hours are Monday through Friday 9 am to 12 pm and 2 pm to 4 pm Mountain Time

I didn't say "I know all about it" anywhere, and no, I've never used a reverse bleeder; nor do I have any desire to do so. I do not appreciate you putting words in my mouth, or claiming I said something I did not say. What I said was "I find it absolutely incredulous that the same company who has on their website a tech blog warning about depressing a caliper piston too quickly so as not to send dirty fluid back thru the ABS module actually sells a reverse bleeder which will do just what they advise against."
There was nothing I said personally directed toward you, and if you took anything I said as a personal attack, I can assure you that was not my intention at all. The closest I came to being personal with you was stating that I would not use a reverse bleeder on any vehicle with ABS, and I stand by what I said. I referenced the manufacturing company of said product, and quoted from their tech blog.

I just sent an email to [email protected] which reads as follows:
Gentlemen,
As an avid user of some of your products, I'm confused by what I see as conflicting information on your website. You have a tech blog which cautions against reverse flowing of brake fluid from the wheel cylinders to the master cylinder on vehicles with ABS, pointing out that the ABS module has unserviceable filters which can become clogged: https://www.brakebleeder.com/preventing-damage-abs-modulators-brake-pad-replacement/
Yet you sell and market reverse bleeders: https://www.brakebleeder.com/product-category/best-sellers/
Why? I look forward to your response.
Thanks,

I will be more than happy to share their response publicly, if I get a response. I, too, regularly use their test strips.

 

[NitroM3]

I will be more than happy to share their response publicly, if I get a response. I, too, regularly use their test strips.

On that part ^^^^^ I
Why do you and so many people feel they can respond to things they have not first tried themselves??? Yet post as if authoritive and experienced on the subject material? I am not just sayin this thread but in general. I read it on forums not only this one but many almost everyday??
I never respond to anything unless I have first personally used or have some real world experience regarding it or the subject material being discussed and if I do not have that I state upfront having no personal experience.
So you send an email to them using their products but it is only the "TEST STRIPS". auh ok!

The rest you ask why, I responded its simple.....

Then you should not have quoted me! You could have simply posted your information without quoting me. Now we will both see how they respond to both our emails

I invited them to join this forum I doubt they will.

I got to take a picture BRB
It not the service shop unit but it is my personal garage unit.

I am back here you go

 

[CheezWhiz]

We went with missionary for our first but I was pretty tired for our second and the turkey baster worked just fine. Boy and a girl, respectively.

tmi?

 

[OppositeLocK]

Doing a "change" via a syringe/baster seems like a lazy way to do it. Doesn't that just introduce air into the system?

I only use that to get some of the old fluid out prior to refilling it and flushing all four corners.