Tuned Accord 2.0T - First Oil Change Choices?

[tolian21]

Why not use what Honda says in the owners manual.....I have always followed the manufacturers owners book and never since 1970 had any oil related problems including my last 2007 Honda Accord woth a 2,4 and had 386000 on it before I traded it in....

Because your old accord is not GDI turbo like this engine. 2.0t engine will dilute your oil with gas and your viscosity will drop substantially. Check out some UOA on this engine

 

[TomYoung]

Yes. Its hot garbage and the fact that it comes mounted ONLY to a CVT makes it worse. Funny enough, the 2023 accord no longer offers the K20 motor and 10 speed auto which are known to be reliable. 1.5 or hybrid

Attached to manual in Civic Si

 

[singular9]

Attached to manual in Civic Si

Not quite the same engine. The SI has a stronger crank, more balancing weights, stronger rods, higher pressure pistons and rings as well as a whole different cam lobe size. The changes are small, but they add up to being a much more robust version of the L15. The SI is the only one that does this as well, since the Accord 1.5 is a higher boost (2psi more) version of the civic hatch. Oddly enough, the civic sedan gets a slightly different version as well, slightly more robust rods afaik.

I did weeks of research before buying, now its all stuck in my head. Still, all the 1.5's have weak headgaskets and the intercooler issue.

Unfortunately although only 0.1 Liters difference, the L15 will never be something like the good ol' B16

 

[LineArrayNut]

Tl/dr porsche a40 mb229.5

 

[singular9]

Tl/dr porsche a40 mb229.5

Looks like a crazy good oil....where on earth do you get it state side though

 

[aquariuscsm]

A tuned turbo 4 cylinder would be a good candidate for M1 0W40. Cheap and easily available and has tons of stringent approvals

 

[kschachn]

Looks like a crazy good oil....where on earth do you get it state side though

Anything from Walmart with either of those approvals will do.

 

[tolian21]

AHA Found it. The 2017 Civic Type R manual from the UK says what I wanted it to say:

Civic TypeR owners manuals

Don’t get caught out with out of date information on your Honda Civic Type-R's navigation system. Download guides, or find the updates you need here.

www.honda.co.uk

This is for same 2.0t Honda engine that is used in US accord? Good find. That is why US manuals only say "Recommend 0w-20", they do not say "require".
I've been monitoring my 2.0T Honda engine (Acura RDX 2020), and it deletes oil with fuel to 4-5% even with 90% highway driving.
I dont even think I need 0W, winters here are on average 30-40F, so 5W-30 should be perfectly fine

 

[wemay]

Looks like a crazy good oil....where on earth do you get it state side though

Same approvals I was referring to. Check the beck labels. Most 40s and some euro 30s will carry said mfc approvals.

 

[singular9]

This is for same 2.0t Honda engine that is used in US accord? Good find. That is why US manuals only say "Recommend 0w-20", they do not say "require".
I've been monitoring my 2.0T Honda engine (Acura RDX 2020), and it deletes oil with fuel to 4-5% even with 90% highway driving.
I dont even think I need 0W, winters here are on average 30-40F, so 5W-30 should be perfectly fine

Yes, this is the same K20 (difference being the valves and turbocharger) but if you tune up your accord even by 25hp you are right at the type r as far as power. Difference is the type R has 1000RPM higher red line.

But the rest is the same, so yes, 5w30 is actually GOOD for this motor.

 

[singular9]

This is probably my favorite chart. At least from what I took away from it, is that 0W weight oil is really only good for -10C climates (and the lowest recorded in my area is probably -15C which happened ONCE). The 5W is good for -10 down to -35. And 30 is good for +5 up to +30. Its usually averaging 30-35C. For Reference 100F is 37C. If you combined SAE 5 and SAE 30 you can the lower and upper bounds of 5w30. But if you look at 0w20 it tops out at 20C, which is 68F. Its January and this whole week I am reaching 60F during the day and no lower than 35F with mostly 40-45F.

So unless you live in freaking Canada, don't see the point in using any 0 weight oil, ever.

 

[kschachn]

This is probably my favorite chart. At least from what I took away from it, is that 0W weight oil is really only good for -10C climates (and the lowest recorded in my area is probably -15C which happened ONCE). The 5W is good for -10 down to -35. And 30 is good for +5 up to +30. Its usually averaging 30-35C. For Reference 100F is 37C. If you combined SAE 5 and SAE 30 you can the lower and upper bounds of 5w30. But if you look at 0w20 it tops out at 20C, which is 68F. Its January and this whole week I am reaching 60F during the day and no lower than 35F with mostly 40-45F.

So unless you live in freaking Canada, don't see the point in using any 0 weight oil, ever.

There is no "0W weight oil", that's not how the winter rating works nor is it what it means.

 

[singular9]

There is no "0W weight oil", that's not how the winter rating works nor is it what it means.

You are correct! No such thing as SAE 0 Oil for SALE but the standard and therefore the definition (and therefore the testing) does.
The whole W (winter rating) is literally just conversion, its not actually 0 weight, it "acts" like 0 weight. Again, these are all definitions by SAE

 

[Shel_B]

God ****, checked my toyota manuals in the UK. 5w30 and 91 octane fuel, not 87 and 0w20. Same engines.

Is the same method used for determining octane in the UK as in the US?

 

[singular9]

Is the same method used for determining octane in the UK as in the US?

No its different. The UK manual asks for RON 95 fuel which in the US is 91 octane or higher. I would check UK manuals. I did that yesterday and pretty much ever toyota engine in my garage should be using 5w30 and 91 octane fuel instead of 0w20/0w16 and 87 octane. But then again, its the 2GR engine and it lasts a very long time, but at least for the lexus Im switching where as the camry which is a work beater is gonna use what ever is cheapest since its racking up miles.

 

[Greasymechtech]

 

[double vanos]

Ill change every 5k regardless of what oil it is.

Or in the case of a Kia engine every 3750 miles which is their severe duty interval. Just firing off your Kia constituents severe duty.

 

[Revving2Redline]

Intro:

Bought my first turbo car in my life. Pretty much lived in toyota land like a monk and never left for 20 years. Still have an 05 with 300k miles that doesn't have a leak or a burn in sight for another 300k with pretty much no maintenance. Also had plenty of cars after, 07 avalon made it 80k miles before I traded it for an 2015 ES350 and it has 80k on it now. Had several 4 cylinder camry's from 2011-present, all serviced with valvoline 0w20, some were totaled, but my last one made it to 80k miles without an issue using toyota genuine oil 0w16 without an issue. Oil tests came back flawless on all the cars.

But, toyota land is different, I can probably put water into my 2019 A25A motor and it will still run simply because anything that required oil pressure is now long gone (electronic vvti and electric water pump and the works). I stay away from german cars period, so I have zero experience with those, and decided to pick up a good deal on this 2022 accord 2.0 turbo. I hear the 1.5 is a piece of aluminum foil with a honda badge and isn't worth having past 50k miles due to various failures of all sorts of parts and the 2.0 K series is the way to go. I have heard the K series is just as robust as the toyota 2AR and 2GR motors but this one is GDI only and a turbo at that.

I didn't do the first oil change at 5k, had honda do it. But now I am getting close to 10k, so getting ready.

Filter:

Picked up a filter from a company called Hengst. Seemed to be the closest to the OEM without buying OEM at least from the tear downs I have seen. I normally use OEM filters but these were on sale so...oh well bought 3.

Driving Habits:

I drive about 20k miles a year, give or take a few depending on life events. 90% highway miles since I live in the rural south east with lots of open road, heck, even our back roads have 55mph speed limits. I don't think I ever idle at a red light for more than 15 seconds a day, which is probably why my cars last so long. I do have a Ktuner Stage 2 dual tune, eco is factory. Car is garage kept.

My process from what I have read: warm up in eco mode for 2 minutes, start driving, don't go over 2000 RPM until the engine temp gauge is warmed up to normal temps, then I switch to normal mode which has the stage 2 tune (about 4PSI more boost over factory and with early spool enabled for faster turbo response). When I get close to my destination I switch back to eco, run the car real easy or coast without throttle to cool down if needed, let the engine idle in park for 30 seconds to a minute. At home I leave the hood open to let the heat evacuate.

Weather Temps:

The weather here is very strange but I am used to it. In the winter its usually around 32F during the night and 50-60F during the day. Some times when a winter spell comes over it can get as low as 10F at night and 25 during the day (like it was 3 weeks ago). The summers are really long, between April and September it is normal to see 75-80 at night and 95+ during the day for weeks on end with no rain. If the car sits out in the sun it can get to 150+ in the car even in the shade.

5w30:

I know pretty much everyone here agrees that 5w30 or heavier is the way to go, but I have been using 0w20 since it came out over a decade ago and have yet to have an issue. You could say I have a heavy foot sometimes, but thats probably like 2-5% of my yearly driving at best. I avg higher MPG than advertised on all my cars and do like 80+ on the highway every day.

After doing some research royal purple seemed like a great option, but then I dug into additives and stuff and pretty much came to the conclusion that my valvoline is the most balanced one out of what I looked at locally for a reasonable price. Heck, walmart sells it for 25-27$ for 5qts!

So would you say its worth bothering to go heavier weight oil?

Those of you who run 5w30 on your accord 2.0 (if there are some of you like that here) how has at been over the long term?

I running the 0w30 M1 during cooler weather and will go back to 5w30 in summer.

 

[Revving2Redline]

A tuned turbo 4 cylinder would be a good candidate for M1 0W40. Cheap and easily available and has tons of stringent approvals

Maybe. Could run Redline 5w30 with a 3.7hths. I'm sure HPL has a similar oil/rating. I did like the Royal Purple HMX 5w30 Synerlec with 3.3hths. 0w40 in Amsoil SS is my pick, but only in Uber high temperature/track. I would probably assume they are running a oil cooler which then a staunch premium boutique 5w30 would be okay.

 

[nicholas]

Yes. Its hot garbage and the fact that it comes mounted ONLY to a CVT makes it worse. Funny enough, the 2023 accord no longer offers the K20 motor and 10 speed auto which are known to be reliable. 1.5 or hybrid.

What about the standard trans Integra?