Tuned Accord 2.0T - First Oil Change Choices?

[hrv]

Thank your government then for reducing your engine lifespan from 300k to 100k.

Listen, if people did as they are told we would all live in the gulag of the USSR at this point. People who blindly follow the rules without quesitoning their reasoning are stupid. Yes. Stupid. Even engineers KNOWINGLY will tell you to do something if held at gun point or the risk of LOSING THEIR JOB

If its a naturally aspirated dual injected old school motor, I am sure 0w20 would be fine, but on a turbocharged GDI engine? The germans already went through that and I refuse to lose money on honda's behalf.

My 07 Accord said to use 5w20 in the 2.4. I had 386000 when I traded it in....I would say I got good use out of that engine....

 

[singular9]

(edit - Mod) checked my toyota manuals in the UK. 5w30 and 91 octane fuel, not 87 and 0w20. Same engines.

 

[wemay]

With a tuned Accord like yours, i'd go 3.5HT/HS. There are Euro oils in 0W30, 5W30, 0W40 and 5W40 with that HT/HS number or similar.

I'd try Quaker State 5W40 from Walmart that is also API SP. But there are others.

 

[singular9]

My 07 Accord said to use 5w20 in the 2.4. I had 386000 when I traded it in....I would say I got good use out of that engine....

Yes, my buddy has the k24 motor accord. Its very old school and will run on mineral oil for all we care, its too robust to be bothered by an engine oil. But modern engines with tigher tolerances and lighter weight parts and weaker cylinder walls, and everything made out of aluminium are designed for efficiency above all else, at the cost of reliability. Turbos were invented for power, and ended up being used to sabotage good reliable v6 engines by replacing them with turbo 4 bangers.

 

[singular9]

With a tuned Accord like yours, i'd go 3.5HT/HS. There are Euro oils in 0W30, 5W30, 0W40 and 5W40 with that HT/HS number or similar.

I'd try Quaker State 5W40 from Walmart that is also API SP. But there are others.

Thanks for the suggestion, where can I find this HT HS number?

 

[kschachn]

Thank your government then for reducing your engine lifespan from 300k to 100k.

Listen, if people did as they are told we would all live in the gulag of the USSR at this point. People who blindly follow the rules without quesitoning their reasoning are stupid. Yes. Stupid. Even engineers KNOWINGLY will tell you to do something if held at gun point or the risk of LOSING THEIR JOB

If its a naturally aspirated dual injected old school motor, I am sure 0w20 would be fine, but on a turbocharged GDI engine? The germans already went through that and I refuse to lose money on honda's behalf.

Let’s not turn this into yet another anti-CAFE rant that will get the thread locked.

 

[singular9]

Let’s not turn this into yet another anti-CAFE rant that will get the thread locked.

Affirmative.
Now about funding those HTHS numbers? Should they be held to a higher standard than the actual oil weight?

 

[kschachn]

Yes HT/HS is a better indicator of performance rather than grade. Any manufacturer approval and all the licenses have HT/HS limits as the determining factor.

 

[hrv]

Yes, my buddy has the k24 motor accord. Its very old school and will run on mineral oil for all we care, its too robust to be bothered by an engine oil. But modern engines with tigher tolerances and lighter weight parts and weaker cylinder walls, and everything made out of aluminium are designed for efficiency above all else, at the cost of reliability. Turbos were invented for power, and ended up being used to sabotage good reliable v6 engines by replacing them with turbo 4 bangers.

I had a 2.2 turbo chrysler lebaron in 1987 and a 2.5 1989 Plymouth Acclaim with a turbo.. Ran what Chrysler said in the owners book and never had a engine or turbo issue...both cars had over 190000 on them

 

[The Critic]

Thank your government then for reducing your engine lifespan from 300k to 100k.

Listen, if people did as they are told we would all live in the gulag of the USSR at this point. People who blindly follow the rules without quesitoning their reasoning are stupid. Yes. Stupid. Even engineers KNOWINGLY will tell you to do something if held at gun point or the risk of LOSING THEIR JOB

If its a naturally aspirated dual injected old school motor, I am sure 0w20 would be fine, but on a turbocharged GDI engine? The germans already went through that and I refuse to lose money on honda's behalf.

I don't think it is that bad. There are plenty of TGDI's running 0W20 that have lasted over 100K. In fact, I am personally aware of one 1.5T.

 

[singular9]

I had a 2.2 turbo chrysler lebaron in 1987 and a 2.5 1989 Plymouth Acclaim with a turbo.. Ran what Chrysler said in the owners book and never had a engine or turbo issue...both cars had over 190000 on them

Okay man, good for you. You got lucky. Not doubting what you say, but it really seems like you are on the wrong website to begin with if all you do is read owners manuals.

 

[TomYoung]

No engine is harmed by an oil with a somewhat higher HT/HS. A higher MOFT protects, not harms. And if you’re attempting to limit any effect of fuel dilution in the oil then it’s simple mechanical dilution, so the only way to mitigate it is though viscosity.

Or shorter oil change intervals.

 

[hrv]

Okay man, good for you. You got lucky. Not doubting what you say, but it really seems like you are on the wrong website to begin with if all you do is read owners manuals.

Not really they should know what is best...You will find many many opinions on this site...You will see 5 pages talking about a crush washer on a oil drain bolt ect...I am just saying what I have done and I dont think it was luck...This goes over many cars since my first 1968 Dodge Charger with a 440. Not to argue with you...Use what you feel best...

 

[singular9]

Or shorter oil change intervals.

Ill change every 5k regardless of what oil it is.

 

[wemay]

Yes, my buddy has the k24 motor accord. Its very old school and will run on mineral oil for all we care, its too robust to be bothered by an engine oil. But modern engines with tigher tolerances and lighter weight parts and weaker cylinder walls, and everything made out of aluminium are designed for efficiency above all else, at the cost of reliability. Turbos were invented for power, and ended up being used to sabotage good reliable v6 engines by replacing them with turbo 4 bangers.

Sometimes you can find it on the brands website where the PDS are located, but many don't post that information anymore. Another way to know is to check the manufacturer approvals on the back of the bottle.

For instance, if the oil has VW504 approval listed on the back label, you can go this site to see what HT/HS is required to obtain said approval....

https://360.lubrizol.com/Categories/Specifications

click on Specification until you see a drop down box. Then select from lower portion where daimler, BMW, Porsche and VW are located.

Then click on VW 504

Here you'll get the HTHS. (also important, the lower the NOACK, the better).

This is what you see when you click on Specifications. (drop down)

 

[kschachn]

Not really they should know what is best...You will find many many opinions on this site...You will see 5 pages talking about a crush washer on a oil drain bolt ect...I am just saying what I have done and I dont think it was luck...This goes over many cars since my first 1968 Dodge Charger with a 440. Not to argue with you...Use what you feel best...

They do know what's best but that is not what is the motivation here. It is economic.

Best is relative to what you're trying to make best.

 

[singular9]

Not really they should know what is best...You will find many many opinions on this site...You will see 5 pages talking about a crush washer on a oil drain bolt ect...I am just saying what I have done and I dont think it was luck...This goes over many cars since my first 1968 Dodge Charger with a 440. Not to argue with you...Use what you feel best...

Sometimes you can find it on the brands website where the PDS are located, but many don't post that information anymore. Another way to know is to check the manufacturer approvals on the back of the bottle.

For instance, if the oil has VW504 approval listed on the back label, you can go this site to see what HT/HS is required to obtain said approval....

https://360.lubrizol.com/Categories/Specifications

View attachment 135088

click on Specification until you see a drop down box. Then select from lower portion where daimler, BMW, Porsche and VW are located.

Then click on VW 504

View attachment 135090

Here you'll get the HTHS. (also important, the lower the NOACK, the better).

View attachment 135091

View attachment 135089

I pretty much run valvoline in all my engines except the one time where I had the toyota running 0w16 and no one had a 0w16 out in the states yet so I bought OEM oil from the dealer. Engine ran pretty good all the way to 82k miles, no idea if it would keep going though, that oil felt like water and not oil. Honda only says "premium 0w20" which god knows what that could possibly mean because they really want you to buy dealership oil (and if you look at the original post, i did the digging and its nowhere near as a robust package as other brands).

As far as I can tell - turbo + gdi = API SP and ILSAC GF6 is the way to go

 

[singular9]

honda obviously thinks that their "oil 2.0" (which is 0w20) is better than normal 0w20 because they pretty much require 0w30 or thicker outside the US

 

[wemay]

I pretty much run valvoline in all my engines except the one time where I had the toyota running 0w16 and no one had a 0w16 out in the states yet so I bought OEM oil from the dealer. Engine ran pretty good all the way to 82k miles, no idea if it would keep going though, that oil felt like water and not oil. Honda only says "premium 0w20" which god knows what that could possibly mean because they really want you to buy dealership oil (and if you look at the original post, i did the digging and its nowhere near as a robust package as other brands).

As far as I can tell - turbo + gdi = API SP and ILSAC GF6 is the way to go

Advance Auto carries Valvoline 5W40.

SP and GF-6 are fine but they allow for a NOAK of 15%. The euro approvals usually allow for 11% or lower. SP and GF-6 are more interested in MPG and turbo protection from LSPI with more valvetrain protection than SN and GF-5. They protect against LSPI by limiting Calcium and increasing Magnesium, plus other particulars. The vast majority of SP/GF-6 motor oils only go up to 3.0HT/HS. Quaker State 5W40 being the one i remember that has both, API SP and euro approvals.


Back to NOACK

SP / GF-6 - allow up to 15% evaporation of the oil at 250 degrees (good)
dexos1 Gen3 - allows up to 13% (better)
Many Euro approvals- allow up to 10 - 11% (best)

If you didn't have a tuned vehicle, this info might be mute. But not while tuned.

 

[singular9]

Advance Auto carries Valvoline 5W40.

SP and GF-6 are fine but they allow for a NOAK of 15%. The euro approvals usually allow for 11% or lower. SP and GF-6 are more interested in MPG and turbo protection from LSPI with more valvetrain protection than SN and GF-5. They protect against LSPI by limiting Calcium and increasing Magnesium, plus other particulars. The vast majority of SP/GF-6 motor oils only go up to 3.0HT/HS. Quaker State 5W40 being the one i remember that has both, API SP and euro approvals.


Back to NOACK

SP / GF-6 - allow up to 15% evaporation of the oil at 250 degrees (good)
dexos1 Gen3 - allows up to 13% (better)
Many Euro approvals- allow up to 10 - 11% (best)

If you didn't have a tuned vehicle, this info might be mute. But not while tuned.

Interesting good to know.

Heres the Valvoline I use https://sharena21.springcm.com/Publ...3793b338/31d6eae3-48fd-ea11-b7fc-48df3793b338

and in independent testing it passed the astm d5800 with 8.9% evaporative loss at 250 degrees C (and according to my K tuner, my engine doesn't exceed 200-220 degrees F in the coolant department so the oil isn't anywhere near 500F).