Tundra tire options

[NHHEMI]

Originally Posted By: supton
It's my first year with a truck, after years of FWD. The FWD were never spectacular in snow, IMO. I could always get them stuck. With this new vehicle that is RWD until I engage 4WD I'm rather concerned about having better traction. Yes, I'll tack in extra weight in the bed, drive slow, all that. But in the end this is a 5,500lb truck replacing a 3,000lb car. I'm expecting it to to scary.

Don't get me wrong, I'd love to have a single set of tires, but with the touchy throttle in this truck I will be in search of traction whenever snow flies. Honestly, I have the wrong vehicle for me, I suspect.


Have had many full sized trucks over the years plus a couple AWD/4WD SUV's and never needed snows. Ran AT's for a lot of years but ran my 1st AS's in 03 when some LTX M+S's came OE on a Ram 1500 I bought. I became a full time AS convert in 07 with my 1st set of Destination LE's I put on a 2007 Silverado( interesting note - they vastly outperformed the OEM GY AT's in all aspects including snow performance ). Honestly, I have never even bothered with weight in the bed on my 4WD's. Just the 2WD truck I had.

When it is really slippery out if you need a little traction to get started just turn the 4WD switch on. Once you are going you can turn it off.

Seriously, if snows will make you feel better by all means do so. It is your vehicle and only you know your driving ability in bad weather. You don't "need" them however is all I am saying. The AS light truck tires I listed above are excellent in the snow. Having a 4WD vehicle will make them even better.

Heck, I tow my duck boat into Feb each year and even towing a boat on slippery roads and launching/pulling out on some nasty ramps( snow/ice )I do just fine with AS's. I have the Destination LE2's on my Jeep right now and they work great.

IF you really want snow's then look at the following. They are highly rated if offered in your size...

Bridgestone Blizzak DM-V1 ( Studless )
Firestone Winterforce( studdable )

 

[IndyIan]

If you look around, its pretty rare for a full size pickup to run snow tires, as they just cost so much. My Dad runs michelin LTX m/s2's on his 4wd F150 all winter with no problems. He doesn't have to venture out after freezing rain being retired, where ice tires would be better. But for whatever reason the big trucks seem to do OK with all season tires, and lots of guys tow big multi sled trailers in my neck of the woods.
If you do feel the need for snows, get smaller P rated ones to minimize the cost unless you overload your truck with firewood often.

 

[supton]

No plans for heavy loads over the winter.

I'll look at the all terrains; Blizzaks will wear too quickly if I use the truck as a daily driver. And not finding much else at the moment that I'd be willing to pay for (not really interested in paying >$250/tire). I've read to avoid BFG in Rugged Trail, and the Rugged Terrain is not much better; but apparently TA/KO are ok? Cooper Discovery A/T3 seem to be recommended in a different thread, so I might look at those. Mastercraft Courser AXT are reputedly the same tire, but since I can easily crank out the miles I'm not sure those are a wise decision (I think I read that Mastercraft uses cheaper rubber?).

Changing tire size would mean new rims, which are generally not that cheap. I'm content with the rims I have now (steel rims). Not a lot it seems in this 255/70R18, and when you jump to a more popular 275 size the prices jump.

If I run the truck as a daily driver for a bit, it will see 25kmiles/year easily. [Before I was going to use something else for all the driving, keeping the truck below 10k, but plans change. Might change back, who knows.]

 

[NHHEMI]

Bridgestone Dueler AT Revo2
Bridgestone Dueler AT D695
Firestone Destination AT

All 3 are excellent AT's in the snow.

 

[ChrisW]

Originally Posted By: supton
...

Changing tire size would mean new rims, which are generally not that cheap. I'm content with the rims I have now (steel rims). Not a lot it seems in this 255/70R18, and when you jump to a more popular 275 size the prices jump.

If I run the truck as a daily driver for a bit, it will see 25kmiles/year easily. [Before I was going to use something else for all the driving, keeping the truck below 10k, but plans change. Might change back, who knows.]...


Changing tire size would not necessarily mean a change in wheel width, providing the same diameters. A 275/65R18 tire has a permitted rim width range of 7.5" to 9.5" (recommended from 8 to 8.5) A 255/70R18 has a range of 6.5" to 8.5" (rec. from 7.5 to 8) I'm not sure what the width is of your current wheels, but you will likely not have issues moving from a 255/70R18 to the 275/65R18. Often on the Toyota steel wheels, the size of the wheel is stamped on the rim flange area visible on the outside; you may have to clean off some brake dust to see it. The prices are fairly close for those sizes, and you have more options in the 275/65R18.

If you're going to be doing 25k miles a year, I'd advocate the Michelin LTX M/S 2 or the LTX A/S 2. The MS2 (about $237/ea in P-Metric or $250 in LT) will be more expensive than the AT2 ($196/ea on Discount Tire for the BSW [black side wall], $256 in LT). The MS2 should provide great tread wear.

Nitto Terra Grappler AT would be an geat all-terrain tire in LT275/65R18 ($240 on Discount Tire) but they're going to be noisier than either of the Michelins and they're an LT tire so the higher pressures could/would contribute to a harsher ride.

 

[supton]

At the moment I am leaning towards burning the money on the LTX M/S2's. I'm dithering (again) about getting rid of the Jetta, so it might drop miles on the truck; OTOH even if I keep the Jetta the truck will see snow, and plenty of miles anyhow.

Lots of guys seem to run 275's on the Tundra rims. I'm not against it, but since I don't care about looks, only mpg and performance, and cost, I'm going to try to avoid 275. Might wind up anyhow though.

I wonder if I can flip the Duelers for reasonable money on CL.

 

[supton]

On the fence still.

LTX M/S2 is 720AA wear rated, but the LE2's are 520AB rated. About $50 cost difference, per tire. Since I am looking at buying 3 sets of tires this year I'm tempted to go cheap.

Question: the "AB" part means it got an "A" rating for traction but a "B" rating for speed/heat? Meaning it is limited to 85-100mph range, while at its 2,469lb rating? I'm a bit confused as to what is being given up.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=48&

 

[Hokiefyd]

The A rating in temperature means that the Michelins have more of a "reserve capacity" to dissipate heat than the Firestones do. Will that ever be an issue for you? Probably not. I live much further south than you do, and both sets of my tires are rated B for temperature.

The UTQG tread life rating is 40% longer on the Michelin tire, and the manufacturer's tread life warranty is about 15% longer on the Michelin tire. It's reasonable to assume that the Michelin would last 15-40% longer than the Firestones. And don't discount the fact that a tire that lasts longer saves you money in more ways than simply the unit price; you also pay less in terms of fewer mounting/balancing jobs, disposal fees, etc. Assuming you're looking at about $600 for the Firestones and about $800 for the Michelins, the Michelins are 30% more expensive. That correlates pretty straight with their longer expected life, so I think in terms of TCO, it's a wash between them.

 

[supton]

Every shop charges differently, of course, but the one quote for LTX MS2 was $241/each, mnt/bal, no alignment, no rotations; vs about $239 from Tirerack. My local garage charges $20/tire to mnt/balance -- BUT -- he won't touch the TPMS sensor, and it seems wise to me to R&R 3 year old sensors. Especially since I did have a bit of a leak this summer. That or remove the blasted sensors, hmmm, that is getting right tempting. My guess is that my shop doesn't do free rotations either (the things I forget when on the phone!).

LE2's: 180-190/each mnt/bal with free rotations, vs about the same $180 from Tirerack.

One nice thing about tirerack would be, if I buy all my tires at once, shipping charges ought to drop down--my prices above assumed a fixed $110 ship charge. Guessing no real win ordering online, not after tossing in mnt/bal charge. It is nice to look though to see if the tire shops are priced high or not; I'm guessing that if they at least match tirerack+ship then the price is "ok".

So, $240 vs $190 (I prefer the slightly more expensive shop), $960 vs $760. So 26% more expensive vs 40% longer tread life, seems like an argument for the more expensive tire. But not a stunning one.

 

[Hokiefyd]

Originally Posted By: supton
So, $240 vs $190 (I prefer the slightly more expensive shop), $960 vs $760. So 26% more expensive vs 40% longer tread life, seems like an argument for the more expensive tire. But not a stunning one.


To me, the performance of the tire outweighs the cost. The Michelins objectively handle heat better than the Firestones. In fact, they're about the only light truck tire with an A temperature rating, so they're a bit in a class of their own there. You have too many excellent experiences to count, and on this forum alone, speaking to the general goodness of Michelin's LTX M/S2.

To me, that's the argument in favor of the Michelins. The fact that they will have a similar cost/mile as the less expensive tire is simply icing on the cake. I'd pay MORE for better performance. But paying the SAME for better performance (on a TCO basis)? You can't beat that with a stick.

The only reason I'm not buying LTX M/S2s this spring for our Acura is because Michelin doesn't make 'em in that size. It's getting Latitude Tours instead.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Supton, be cautious about upsizing if you are concerned about fuel economy. Larger tires can make a noticeable difference on our Silverados. It can be quite significant.

I can't imagine a better choice than the LTX MS2. You may think you bought a new truck!

 

[supton]

Oh, I'm staying stock sized. P255/70R18. I'm hoping there isn't some malarky in speed ratings or load ratings.

Pulled the trigger and called the shop; might pick them up tomorrow afternoon if all goes well. Alignment next week (Toyota dealer does free lifetime inspections, and alignment checks are free--have coupon if it requires adjustment--hence two different places).

 

[Astro14]

Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
Originally Posted By: supton
So, $240 vs $190 (I prefer the slightly more expensive shop), $960 vs $760. So 26% more expensive vs 40% longer tread life, seems like an argument for the more expensive tire. But not a stunning one.


To me, the performance of the tire outweighs the cost. The Michelins objectively handle heat better than the Firestones. In fact, they're about the only light truck tire with an A temperature rating, so they're a bit in a class of their own there. You have too many excellent experiences to count, and on this forum alone, speaking to the general goodness of Michelin's LTX M/S2.

To me, that's the argument in favor of the Michelins. The fact that they will have a similar cost/mile as the less expensive tire is simply icing on the cake. I'd pay MORE for better performance. But paying the SAME for better performance (on a TCO basis)? You can't beat that with a stick.

The only reason I'm not buying LTX M/S2s this spring for our Acura is because Michelin doesn't make 'em in that size. It's getting Latitude Tours instead.


This. If the cost per mile is similar, it's a no-brainer.

Even if the cost for the better tires is higher, spring for them. The first item you're able to stop and avoid an accident that would have happened with less traction, you will be glad you have the best tires you can get.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Originally Posted By: supton
Oh, I'm staying stock sized. P255/70R18. I'm hoping there isn't some malarky in speed ratings or load ratings.

Pulled the trigger and called the shop; might pick them up tomorrow afternoon if all goes well. Alignment next week (Toyota dealer does free lifetime inspections, and alignment checks are free--have coupon if it requires adjustment--hence two different places).


Excellent. I was meaning to convey that the differences can be good AND bad, the handling can improve a lot but the fuel economy can take a hit also with bigger tires.

Please post up your experiences...

 

[meep]

IMO either tire is a good choice. The LE2 has actually out-ranked the MS2 on tirerack surveys. I've owned both and have 10k on the LE2s now, and they have been by all measures an excellent onroad tire for a truck, even one that's light in the tail. The LE2s have had a little bit less road noise than the MS2, and significantly less noise than the original LE.

when my truck was t-bones last month, the offending vehicle's bracing behind its bumper tore into the sidewall of one of my tires. The sidewall was not skimpy on material.... it was interesting to see that there was a lot of rubber/fabric in there, maybe 3/16"?

 

[supton]

Hmm, not sure what my last thread on LTX's were. Found this thread first.

Just measured 5/32 in the rear, 6/32 in front, reasonably even wear (more towards outside of tire, perhaps a bit less in center--I did up the pressure, and it appears to have been bit me). Rotated at 5k or 10k intervals. 41,799 miles. Am guessing there is what, another 10k in the tires? Not sure where I want the tires off--4/32 is the usual measurement, maybe 3/32's.

If I was daily driving this I'd be looking to put the Bridgestones back on next summer--I never did sell those Duelers, they are still in the shed, with 8 or 9/32's on them, date code of late 2012. Honestly, I think the Bridgestones rode better, even with the same pressure. They certainly balanced better (or road forced better)--but that is probably the tire shop's fault.

Maybe when I put the snows on I should flip the tires for what I can get, and start the process over again--bunch of Tundra steelies on CL.