Trion Atomizing furnace humidifier

Status
Not open for further replies.
DriveHard

DriveHard

Joined
Nov 24, 2003
Messages
4,556
Location
Middle of Iowa
Hey guys!

Anybody have any experience with one of these?

https://www.trioniaq.com/products/index.aspx?prod=residential_AES_Mister_Mini

It is basically a little box you mount on the furnace outlet to the house and mists fresh water into the duct-work to humidify the house. I am currently using the old fashioned evaporative console type unit that I have to fill from my tap daily (roughly 6 gallons per day to maintain 30%). I would love to be able to get away from having to spend the time to fill this thing daily. Thoughts/experience?
 
it may eat your furnace vents, and leave white dust on everything.

The evaporative kind dont do that because it leaves all the junk behind when it evaporates.

When you have the spraying kind all the minerals etc are still in the water.
 
Originally Posted by Rand
it may eat your furnace vents, and leave white dust on everything.

The evaporative kind dont do that because it leaves all the junk behind when it evaporates.

When you have the spraying kind all the minerals etc are still in the water.


I also have very good rural water, and a high end water softener/filter that will be treating the water sent to the unit.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by DriveHard
I also have very good rural water, and a high end water softener/filter that will be treating the water sent to the unit.


What is your TDS? Unless you are using RO or distilled water there will still be some. It might be ok though.

my city tap water is over 300 most of the year.

I have one of these
https://www.amazon.com/HM-TDS-EZ-Hy...s&qid=1550589675&s=hi&sr=1-8

so I can check on the health of my RO Membrane.
(off topic but it removes well over 90%)

It could be that you wont have issues with the mister. I used an ultrasonic humidifier with tap water and after a week i had white dust on everything.. luckily I was upgrading my under sink filters to the 5 stage with RO Membrane that year anyway.
 
Originally Posted by Rand
Originally Posted by DriveHard
I also have very good rural water, and a high end water softener/filter that will be treating the water sent to the unit.


What is your TDS? Unless you are using RO or distilled water there will still be some. It might be ok though.

my city tap water is over 300 most of the year.

I have one of these
https://www.amazon.com/HM-TDS-EZ-Hy...s&qid=1550589675&s=hi&sr=1-8

so I can check on the health of my RO Membrane.


I have something similar...I want to say I am in the 55 range...will try to remember to take another reading tonight.
 
My dad had a Honeywell one that was similar and found that the misting nozzle kept calcifying up so he changed it over to another Honeywell that takes the pad where it lets the water trickle down the pad. (Bypass type). I have the same one and have been happy with it. The pad is $13 for the season from Amazon here so it should be $10 USD or less there.

These are the ones we are using so you have the info on it: https://www.amazon.ca/Honeywell-HE280C2010-Higher-Capacity-Humidifier/dp/B005UTVJZQ

He has had his 5 years and I'm 2 years.
 
Last edited:
What aspect of these keeps them from breeding mold/mildew/bacteria? Isn't Legionnaires disease a concern as well?
 
Does your state have a utility sponsored program for winterizing? I'm asking because it is air leaks into the house which are the #1 reason for having excessively low interior humidity. Cold air is dry air.

If you seal the exterior air leaks then you probably won't need a humidifier.
 
Last edited:
Something seems wrong, I find it hard to believe you need 6 gallons a day to maintain 30% in Iowa. Plus there are evaporative types that simply use a solenoid with a plumbed water line tapped from (local water heater if present there, etc) so this is not done manually.

There are calcification issues with the atomizing designs if you're putting that much water through daily, of course depending on whether you filter it and how mineralized the water is, but you claim your setup will handle that.

Quote
If you seal the exterior air leaks then you probably won't need a humidifier.


Not quite true, you cannot (should not) have exterior leaks entirely sealed against water vapor because that will cause mold in exterior walls. You should have water vapor loss there to prevent that. It is designed into any remotely modern construction (last few decades though depending on climate, should be in Iowa).
 
Originally Posted by BMWTurboDzl
Does your state have a utility sponsored program for winterizing? I'm asking because it is air leaks into the house which are the #1 reason for having excessively low interior humidity. Cold air is dry air.

If you seal the exterior air leaks then you probably won't need a humidifier.


I have three fire places (two of which run a LOT and don't have outside air supply, so draw air into the house) and the rear and side of my house is literally windows...its never going to be sealed to the point of not needing a humidifier with a winter this cold. (was -19F this morning on my way to work)

I do appreciate the input, and am constantly looking for ways to improve my insulation...but it just won't cut it to the point of not needing a humidifier. I know its not that bad right now, as I am maintaining 30 ish% on only 6 gallons a day.
 
The newer houses here that are super tight and modern construction also have units to exchange the air with the outside while recovering heat/cooling losses. These units are required so the toxins in the house from various things off-gassing don't build up and with this venting going on you are going to loose humidity. (Or they do here anyway)

I'm in a 1940's house with no insulation in the walls. While I do live near a lake and we have sticky humid summers our winters can be brutally dry and although the humidifier I have above rated for 4,000sqft it runs pretty much the whole day in our 1500sqft house with the furnace fan kept on to balance the heating/cooling between the floors due to the lack of insulation. (It has an air pressure sensor that trigger it to allow the water to flow in addition to the humidistat)

This keeps the humidity in the house between 30% on the lower floors to 45% on the higher floor.

It has greatly reduced caulking shrinkage, wood shrinkage and stopped various plaster from brittle dry cracking since we installed it. Not to mention nor more dry noses and dry skin.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Dave9
Something seems wrong, I find it hard to believe you need 6 gallons a day to maintain 30% in Iowa. Plus there are evaporative types that simply use a solenoid with a plumbed water line tapped from (local water heater if present there, etc) so this is not done manually.

There are calcification issues with the atomizing designs if you're putting that much water through daily, of course depending on whether you filter it and how mineralized the water is, but you claim your setup will handle that.

Quote
If you seal the exterior air leaks then you probably won't need a humidifier.


Not quite true, you cannot (should not) have exterior leaks entirely sealed against water vapor because that will cause mold in exterior walls. You should have water vapor loss there to prevent that. It is designed into any remotely modern construction (last few decades though depending on climate, should be in Iowa).


This is absolutely true. Absent a vapor barrier such as sheet poly water vapor will move through the walls/roof of house. There is absolutely no reason to allow air leaks in a house.

If you have water condensing on upstairs sheet rock then you have an insulation problem because the insufficient insulation is cooling the sheet rock to the point where moisture will condense out. Of course having plants and other reservoirs of water can contribute to the problem.

Water vapor moves through wallboard, fiber insulation/open cell spray foam, OSB/plywood sheathing, asphalt felt, brick, and most siding (Doesn't move through vinyl siding, but vinyl is self-venting).
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by StevieC
The newer houses here that are super tight and modern construction also have units to exchange the air with the outside while recovering heat/cooling losses. These units are required so the toxins in the house from various things off-gassing don't build up and with this venting going on you are going to loose humidity. (Or they do here anyway)

I'm in a 1940's house with no insulation in the walls. While I do live near a lake and we have sticky humid summers our winters can be brutally dry and although the humidifier I have above rated for 4,000sqft it runs pretty much the whole day in our 1500sqft house with the furnace fan kept on to balance the heating/cooling between the floors due to the lack of insulation. (It has an air pressure sensor that trigger it to allow the water to flow in addition to the humidistat)

This keeps the humidity in the house between 30% on the lower floors to 45% on the higher floor.

It has greatly reduced caulking shrinkage, wood shrinkage and stopped various plaster from brittle dry cracking since we installed it. Not to mention nor more dry noses and dry skin.


Yep. HRV/ERV's are code required in Canada
 
Originally Posted by DriveHard
Originally Posted by BMWTurboDzl
Does your state have a utility sponsored program for winterizing? I'm asking because it is air leaks into the house which are the #1 reason for having excessively low interior humidity. Cold air is dry air.

If you seal the exterior air leaks then you probably won't need a humidifier.


I have three fire places (two of which run a LOT and don't have outside air supply, so draw air into the house) and the rear and side of my house is literally windows...its never going to be sealed to the point of not needing a humidifier with a winter this cold. (was -19F this morning on my way to work)

I do appreciate the input, and am constantly looking for ways to improve my insulation...but it just won't cut it to the point of not needing a humidifier. I know its not that bad right now, as I am maintaining 30 ish% on only 6 gallons a day.


Fireplaces will do that. Wood must be cheap in your area.
wink.gif


Seriously though, check your state for the free weatherization. https://humanrights.iowa.gov/dcaa/weatherization
 
Originally Posted by BMWTurboDzl
Originally Posted by DriveHard
Originally Posted by BMWTurboDzl
Does your state have a utility sponsored program for winterizing? I'm asking because it is air leaks into the house which are the #1 reason for having excessively low interior humidity. Cold air is dry air.

If you seal the exterior air leaks then you probably won't need a humidifier.


I have three fire places (two of which run a LOT and don't have outside air supply, so draw air into the house) and the rear and side of my house is literally windows...its never going to be sealed to the point of not needing a humidifier with a winter this cold. (was -19F this morning on my way to work)

I do appreciate the input, and am constantly looking for ways to improve my insulation...but it just won't cut it to the point of not needing a humidifier. I know its not that bad right now, as I am maintaining 30 ish% on only 6 gallons a day.


Fireplaces will do that. Wood must be cheap in your area.
wink.gif


Seriously though, check your state for the free weatherization. https://humanrights.iowa.gov/dcaa/weatherization


I live on several acres of forested land...so its free...just takes a little work. I can walk around the house and check windows, doors, etc. Yes, my front door and side windows need some caulk (too cold to do right now, will get in spring), it is the fireplaces that are the major contributor to air leakage.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

B
Case study: Chemical cleaning stuck rings to eliminate oil burning
2
Replies
22
Views
3K
Patman
R
New home build network/Wi-Fi infrastructure
2
Replies
22
Views
4K
meep
P
2015 Kia Optima LX QT/300 Miles Oil Burned Solved/Fixed
2 3
Replies
49
Views
38K
ShermanFirefly
D
  • Locked
Performed the Citric Acid Flush With Great Results
Replies
8
Views
30K
Shannow
D
  • Locked
Easy humidifier
Replies
11
Views
2K
kkreit01
Back
Top Bottom