Transmission Woes...

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I'm the second owner since 50k Miles.

Around 70k miles I noticed my transmission fluid was getting brown althought it didn't smell burnt or have any particles in it. I used the pan drop and filter change method and replaced about 40% of the liquid in the transmission. (I used Dexron VI for this). Since then ,if the vehicle speed is over 30mph, when she's slowing down she slips a little bit at 25mph (Revolutions go up by about 200) and you feel a slight movement of the vehicle.

This problem does not happen if I press the brakes or press the gas a bit near the 25mph mark. 3 days ago I changed the fluid via the cooler lines method using 2 gallons of Valvoline's Max Life Dex/Merc ATF. Have run her for about 25 miles. I am still having my issue. And I am a college student, sadly I can't afford a rebuild.

After much research here in BITOG I've rounded my solutions to...
1)The thick Lucas Transmission Additive
2)Auto RX
3)lubegard either red or black.
 
What transmission fluid does the owners manual call for ?

Do they specify Dexron VI ?

Did you have any transmission slippage issues prior to the first fluid change ?

Keith
 
It is very important that you use the correct ATF. This Aisin-Warner automatic specs Mobil 3309 ATF or Toyota T-IV. Any version of Dexron or Mercon is NOT a suitable substitute.

There are some people who use Dexron 6 successfully ,but I think you are not one of them.

Have a full fluid exchange done by someone who know what they are doing or learn how yourself , using the proper fluid , or prepare for a $1500 rebuild. I have an aerio. Suzuki's are decent vehicles , but they are very picky on fluids.
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Forget the additives especially the Lucas. I would do a complete fluid exchange using the proper ATF (Amsoil ATF is speced). Change the filter also. But do a cooler line flush yourself or have a shop exchange all the ATF. If you have the $$ the Amsoil is worth it.

47K miles from now you can add Auto-Rx and again do a complete fluid exchange.

Was the Valvoline ATF speced for your vehicle?

What does the owners manual call for?
 
Ouch, if you used the incorrect fluid. If the AT is speced for T-IV/3309 then Castrol Import ATF meets that spec and can be purchased at WalMarts.
 
@ Keith
Owners Manual calls for Dexron III.
So no, they don't specify Dexron III, I used VI the first time because I thought VI was better than III lol.
Prior to the first fluid change I had no concern at all, transmission behaved like new.

@chad8
Yeah, Dexron VI didn't do it, so I used the Valvoline MaxLife Dex/Merc but that didn't seem to help at all.
A question, so the transmission in my 2003 Vitara is a Aisin-Warner? And yes, I think I will have to buy new ATF again and do a cooler line flush, it isn't hard at all.

@ Donald
I think the Valvoline ATF is speced for my Vitara since the manual asked for Dexron III and the only thing I could find was this fluid since it was Dexron/Mercon.

@Eddie
I was GOING to grab the Castrol Import ATF!!!!!!! But I was sold over the promises in Valvoline's MaxLife.


To all.... I know Amsoil is good (Some say the best) but considering the fact that it seems I have been running the wrong ATF is my vehicle I want it changed ASAP!

The only one I can get locally is the Castrol Transmax Import Multi-Vehicle fluid, so I think I will change fluid and use that until next year and save up for the Amsoil or Mobil 1.

I'm crossing my fingers....
 
If you need something NOW, there's a Universal super synthetic by Wolf's Head. They are usually 6$/qt, but have worked great in place of the harder to find trans fluids.
 
IIRC the MaxLife should meet his spec. Guessing it may be something else, not a fluid incompatability. But it's just that my friend, a guess.
 
I spent 3 hours reading and some people have had luck using MaxLife... Castrol Import Multi isn't synt and Mobil 1 and Amsoil are pretty costly...

I think I will buy Lubegard RED, add the bottle and hope for the best, if it doesn't work I will buy the Castrol Import Multi.

Man had I known I think I would have not touched the transmission!
 
BumpLover, this won’t make you feel any better at this point, but if the manual calls for Dexron III, and there wasn’t any to be found, which I’m sure is the case, then Dexron VI would be the logical choice. I, and many others would have done the same thing, and been right in doing so.

However, your problem is that the original fluid had almost 90,000 miles on it. Right ? When you changed it at 89,278 miles it was the first time the fluid had been changed. The issue you are having now is a result of previous, poor maintenance. The damage was already done before you changed the fluid. Replacing nasty, brown transmission fluid with clean, red fluid simply accelerates the occurrence of the slipping issues you’re now experiencing. It would have happened anyhow, but you may have gotten more use out of that transmission if you had left it alone. But, you didn’t know that so don’t kick yourself.

The time to have used an additive was when you first changed the fluid. You would have had more of the brown fluid that had lots of grit in it, that the trans now needs, than you have now. Many of the aftermarket transmission additives are designed to work with the old brown fluid, but at this point there is little of it left. So, you’re pretty much screwed.

The time to change the transmission fluid is before it gets brown. If it had 50,000 on it when you bought it should have been changed right then. The previous owner(s) should have changed it at 30,000 something miles and you wouldn’t have this problem.

In the future change your transmission fluid and filter at 30,000 miles and don’t use these equivalent fluids like the Valvoline’s Dexron/Mercon or any of the various Multi-Vehicle fluid. Those are fools bargains. Use exactly what the vehicle manufacturer specified for use. There are multiple reasons they specified that exact fluid.

I don’t think you’ll gain anything by changing the fluid again. I believe you’re just wasting your money, money that you’ll need to get a rebuilt transmission or another car. There is no fluid or additive that will magically fix the damage that has been done. However, if you insist on throwing more good money after bad, the Trans-X line of products by K&W is the way to go. Get their Slip Stop & Leak Sealer and their High-Mileage Treatment. If it works go buy some lottery tickets, too.

Keith
 
possibility--- pressures are low inside due to wear/damage/rubber seals. dex VI is slightly thinner, meaning pressures will drop even more, resulting in incomplete clutch engagement. so... if the next fluid is a bit thicker then that might work.

OTOH, Dex is a slightly grippier fluid, and the multi-vehicle atfs, especially if they claim Z1, ATF+4, may promote softer engagement feel, which may not be helpful here.

So--- the viscosity thickener he mentioned about might be worth a shot.

It's also possible that something as simple as a new pressure control solenoid or other valving could be all that's needed. have a shop check it before giving up on it.

my lunch money says LG red will be a waste of $12 in this case.

M
 
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This is only happening when coasting with the throttle closed, correct? I just looked up the shift chart on mitchell ondemand. 23mph is the speed the transmission should down shift from OD to 3rd with the throttle closed. So it may be normal operation.
 
Originally Posted By: AVB
This is only happening when coasting with the throttle closed, correct? I just looked up the shift chart on mitchell ondemand. 23mph is the speed the transmission should down shift from OD to 3rd with the throttle closed. So it may be normal operation.


Drive it in power mode and see if the same thing happens at a slightly higher speed. The chart shows OD to 3rd at 27mph in power mode.
 
Thank you for your post AVB, if it's normal oeration I would laugh to death... Tommorrow morning after driving her for a bit I will check if it does that with Power mode. Let's hope for the best... If not I will check out the Trans-X additive. I was going to order Lubegard but it seems a general consensus that in MY case it's not going to do anything. Fingers crossed, I think I won't be able to sleep tonight haha.
 
On a positive thought... I did a filter/pan drop on my work car... after I was done, I had a bit of slippage... once one day, once the next day... just a little.

Then it all stopped. Maybe just had to get all the air bubbles out.

I know i was using the right trans fluid, and filter... so I had a big giant [censored] moment when I felt the slip...
 
Strangely enough the symptoms have seemed to go away I put the transmission in power mode and in normal mode and didn't feel the engagement at 25mph when coasting from 30+mph...

I think I will add Lubegard Red just in case, but im happy she's working good!

Maybe the additives in MaxLife took that long to soak in the transmission?
 
Sometimes when you do an ATF change, it takes a bit to get the air out of the system.

I try not to panic if I get a few odd shifts right after service.. if it's not right in a few hours, then I concern a bit.
 
So not so good news
frown.gif

Today I took several trips of about 8 miles each...

AVB, happened exactly as you said... I put power mode on... and from Overdrive to 3rd that happened, and yes, at a bit more MPH than without power mode on...
So that means this is normal?? In the past it didn't happen...
Is there anything I can do to not feel that?
Thanks!
 
I am not familiar with your vehicle, I have never driven one to compare it to. It is possible that it is normal and that the old fluid was preventing you from noticing. The new fluid could have restored it back to normal. If the transmission was slipping when coasting the rpm should drop not rise. That transmission is designed to have engine braking, but the only test I see are for 2nd and L gear.
 
Did we ever determine what the OEM Spec is for the Trans fluid? I think we should look to have the right transmission fluid before goofing around with band-aid fixes.
 
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