Transmission drain and fill

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Oct 11, 2002
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Im about to do a 3rd trans drain and fill on my 16 Mazda CX-5.

I always do 3 drain and fills since you can’t get all the fluid out with just 1.

Question: I know the pump in the trans circulates the fluid…. Is it sufficient to just drain, refill, start the vehicle and cycle the gears, and repeat? Or does it actually need to be driven to circulate more fluid through the trans?!? It would be a lot easier to do just keep it on the ramps and cycle through the gears!

Thanks for any input!
 
I have always drove it enough to get it up to normal operating temperature. I guess I am OCD and believe that warm lube will drain better.
 
I did a little of both. flushed and filled first, then cycle through the gears while at a stand still then drive it a bit around town at slower speeds.. then drained and filled and added the lubegard. drove is around town but included some higher speed on the interstate.
 
i’ve always drained and refilled but before starting the car i take a cooler line loose and let it pump out while i cycle through the gears until the stream slows down. then refill and be done with it.
 
Drain down will provide you a measurement of how much to put back in, right?
Put it in gear while still up, fill up once up to temperature
 
@Drew99GT, good question, I've wondered the same. I suspect leaving it on ramps or jack stands, running the engine for a few minutes between drains-and-fills, and shifting through the gears, would be enough to circulate the fluid. That's my opinion only; I hope a transmission expert will confirm one way or another.

On our '07 Dodge Grand Caravan, I swapped out the transmission pan for one with a drain plug. I changed the filter at that time, but now simply do a drain-and-fill (about 2.5 quarts) annually. Some 70,000 km (43,000 miles) later, it's probably time to change the filter again.

Does the CX-5 have a drain plug on the transmission pan? If not, do you drop the pan, or drain fluid via one of the hoses to the radiator?

Does it have a real filter, or a "rock catcher" screen?
 
It has a drain plug. Pretty easy to do.

I decided to do the cycle through the gears technique instead of driving it between drains. Worked good. 2nd drain came out as dirty as the first but the 3rd was fairly clear. Lots quicker this way.
 
made an interesting discovery yesterday. We had the trans drain and filled Sat morning and I felt like the tech may not have added the correct about. even after I added the lubegard shudder fix, I still felt the correct fluid level wasn't achieved. I've heard great things about the number one selling Valvoline Dexron VI/Mercon LV ATF is a full-synthetic automatic transmission fluid. So ran to walmart found one on the shelf and returned home. In the knowing how easy adding fluid to the trans, I added approx. 1/4 of the valvoline Dex/Mer fluid and what a difference.. it's reduce the hard shifting and eliminated the shuddering. The BG products doesn't seem to doing the job anymore, so between now and then, I'll be making the switch to the Valvoline Dex/Mec fluid.
 
I really wanted to try the Valvoline EP but went with Aisin FZ. I ain’t paying $25/ quart! Seems to shift and drive just fine, but it always has.
Good call on the Aisin! I used Ravenol in our CX-9 30k miles ago. May use the Aisin next time though, seems to be a great value.
 
You're taking much better care of your transmission than many others would (including careful people) and I respect that. I think cycling through the gears is a good choice while keeping it in place. Me personally... I would just do it once at a time, but do it more frequently. Like.... much more frequently than what the owner's manual would say.
 
I've done drain (I use a pneumatic MityVac fluid evacuator since my Rav4 has a dipstick) and fills every 30-40,000 miles. At 208,000 it still shifts fine. When I dropped the pan out at about 170,000 the filter still looked good (I replaced it) and the trans pan had very little gunk on the magnets.
 
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