Transmission and Engine Mounts, Solid vs Hydraulic

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Feb 6, 2025
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What is your opinion between solid vs hydraulic? I imagine most cars won't offer you both. In my case it's a GM 3800 application and apparently the aftermarket companies give you a choice. The factory mounts were all hydraulic except for the rear mount which has always been a solid block of rubber. My left transmission mount has leaked out all of its hydraulic fluid which is why I hear a clunk when pulling into the driveway in reverse. The hydraulic fluid is the same exact color as PAG refrigerant oil which was throwing me for a loop for about a week.
 
Elroy the Brave: The vibration from solid mounts would be at idle speeds I assume, correct?

Clinebarger: Where do you get OE mounts for a 26 year old car?
 
Always use what the factory recommends. Going solid can create a trickle effect. For example, on my BMW, I have polyurethane bushings in the rear subframe, but that requires a polyurethane bushing or an M3 bushing on the differential. That is not a problem when you want to upgrade components for various purposes, but I am not sure you are doing that.
 
I would also go hydraulic, but with the expectation that it's a normal wear item that needs to be changed out periodically. Also, if the only thing available is new old stock (is this for an older vehicle?) then I would get the solid ones.
 
What is your opinion between solid vs hydraulic? I imagine most cars won't offer you both. In my case it's a GM 3800 application and apparently the aftermarket companies give you a choice. The factory mounts were all hydraulic except for the rear mount which has always been a solid block of rubber. My left transmission mount has leaked out all of its hydraulic fluid which is why I hear a clunk when pulling into the driveway in reverse. The hydraulic fluid is the same exact color as PAG refrigerant oil which was throwing me for a loop for about a week.
Buy OEM if you can get it.. From my experience the aftermarkets cause vibrations and do not last long.
 
Get OEM or a quality equivalent. You'll rattle your teeth out with solid mounts.

I put a used engine in a 1993 Jeep Cherokee once. The engine mounts were trashed and the transmission mount was old so I put polyurethane mounts in there. I was into off-roading and these types of mounts hold up to the abuse better. Similar story for high performance engines so the engine mounts don't flex much.

The vibrations at idle were crazy. You could barely see out the rear view mirror it was vibrating so bad. At speed it was fine though. Unless you are building a race car and don't care about comfort...go OEM style.
 
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