Trans pan rusting through?

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I was doing the oil change on the Durango last week and noticed some wetness on the trans pan. The area around the gasket and mating surface aren't damp, nor is anything above it so I don't think the leak is coming from there.

If it is rusting through, I find it shocking(or should I?), as the truck is only 10 yrs old. Admittedly, it's lived those 10 yrs in the salty upper midwest, and I've only owned it for the past two so I don't know how well the previous owners took care of it or how often they washed it.

But still, I've owned other vehicles that endured the same climate for longer periods and haven't had rusted out trans pans.

I snapped a few pics, and on a related note, the oil pan doesn't look very good either. Is that next? I heard that one is a major PITA.

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I just dealt with a rusted through oil pan on my Aeorstar. Thanks to Eljefino for his idea, lead flashing, and Permatex I fixed it. I was not about to drop the oil pan and replace it, not worth it to me.
 
Originally Posted By: SLCraig
At the very least I'd be covering the oil and trans pans in some sort of rust inhibitor, or even oil. It will at least slow the process down.


It would appear the trans pan has already chosen that route and is self-medicating at this point
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Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I just dealt with a rusted through oil pan on my Aeorstar.


Well, at least your Ford pan lasted 8 yrs longer than this Dodge one did.


Originally Posted By: SS1970chrysler
They don't make 'em like they used to.
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That is kinda my underlying point. This is the first Chysler product I've ever owned and it hasn't made a very good impression on me. Even considering the age and mileage, this thing has issues that pop up on almost a weekly basis. So far this summer I've had to replace the rear speed sensor, fix an A/C line leak, blower motor resistor harness, a rusted front brake splash shield that the was rubbing/squeaking against rotor, and several ongoing intermittent issues. It's been wayyy more trouble prone then any other high mileage car I've ever owned.

To top it off, it seems many parts that I'd normally be able to source cheaper aftermarket replacements are dealer only for this truck. This trans pan is another example.

A shame, as there are some Chrysler products that appeal to me. Like the new Charger and Durango.
 
Originally Posted By: motor_oil_madman
When you get your next vehicle rememberto hose down the undercarriage regularly.


Rust like that is the reason I have oil sprayed the undercarriage of my cars for over 30 years. I never have any rust...
 
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
Originally Posted By: motor_oil_madman
When you get your next vehicle rememberto hose down the undercarriage regularly.


Rust like that is the reason I have oil sprayed the undercarriage of my cars for over 30 years. I never have any rust...


What do you spray and how often? Thanks!

I used Amsoil HD Metal Protectant on my Jeep and am happy with the results. Next new vehicle I'm considering Fluid Film or paint.
 
If I do get a vehicle with rust and peeling paint on the pans, I knock off the loose flakes and wipe it down with a rag either soaked in thick oil or some bearing grease.
 
Thanks, I have no clue where I'd be able to get it here. I'll have to try and hunt it down.
 
When they were replacing the engine in my 2001 Jeep, they found the oil pan pretty far gone and replaced it. Had I known ahead I would have ordered it from RockAuto like I did the engine. Oh well. As they say, whats done is done.

If I was going for a $30 oil change and was told I needed a new oil pan I would not be happy. But when doing an engine change the cost of the oil pan (when compared to the engine & labor cost) did not feel so bad.
 
Originally Posted By: beast3300
Common sight on Dodge trucks here in the rust belt.
Exactly. I had to replace the pan on my 1/2 ton van's 46RE when it was 11 years old (the first eight were in Wisconsin). The rust was much less than meangreen01's, but a pinhole did develop. I used a B&M 10280 aftermarket pan, which is a very nice casting.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Thanks, I have no clue where I'd be able to get it here. I'll have to try and hunt it down.


You can use chain-saw bar oil. (heavy -summer blend) It will drip for a few days, so if you have gravel driveway no worries. It's not perfect and will have to be applies each year but it will work. Spray it in in the doors and rocker panels as well as the hood and trunk..
 
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Thanks, I have no clue where I'd be able to get it here. I'll have to try and hunt it down.


You can use chain-saw bar oil. (heavy -summer blend) It will drip for a few days, so if you have gravel driveway no worries. It's not perfect and will have to be applies each year but it will work. Spray it in in the doors and rocker panels as well as the hood and trunk..


I used that on a Chevy I had it worked OK, a bit messy though. I'll check the body shop supply guy in town and see what he has.

How does primer and paint work? I see a lot of guys are using that too. I prefer something that you can see through, and creeps.
 
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