Trans issue not fixed after new torque converter

L

lolford

Joined
Jun 25, 2022
Messages
45
Hi everyone, I have a 2015 Taurus and had an issue where my RPM would have a large dip after coming to a stop. I took the car to a transmission shop and a new torque converter was put in. The issue went away for a bit but it seems to be back.

The shop suggests replacing part of the valvebody (though not the part with the solenoids) I'm wondering would this part fix the issue I've been trying to hunt down?

This is the part they're suggesting I replace. I'm just afraid I'll dump another $1000 after already replacing the TC

https://ford.oempartsonline.com/oem-parts/ford-valve-body-bt4z7a100b
 
Rand said:
Is there any recourse for the previous repair if it didn't fix the problem?

IMO a "transmission shop" shouldn't be a parts cannon.
Click to expand...
Sadly no I paid cash as well. The shop owner believes it's the valvebody now.

I was getting desperate as I paid the dealer to look at it and they couldn't find any issue (despite me bringing scanner data etc) and my trusted mechanic said it was the torque converter but to try a transmission shop since they didn't want to be the one to use the parts canon.
 
Exhaustgases said:
So then a new ford torque converter was installed? If it was my car I'd want to see the proof. Maybe only fluid was changed out and nothing else was done? I personally trust no shops.
Click to expand...
The car definitely shifts different, and I saw the exhaust gaskets were changed
 
Not a lot to go on here, Guess the theory is the converter clutch is dragging?

*Is the symptom transmission fluid temp related....Does it act up at full temp?

A dragging converter clutch is rarely a fault in the converter itself....But a control/pressure issue. Of course the converter clutch can be damaged & require replacement as part of the repair.

DTC's or other data you can provide?

The Linear Solenoids on 6F50's are generally reliable unless contaminated.
 
Are there any adaptations to reset on that car model ?
I had just the fluid flushed on my hyundai and it went worse, till I realised my cheap obd2 with my five bucks copy of Car Scanner for Android can reset adaptations in experimental mode. From there, it was a bit of ai questioning, and a full re-learning procedure (driving in specific ways).
One way or the other - scan for codes. I think there are some known good obd adapter for Fords, as well as some software. ForScan, was it...
 
clinebarger said:
Not a lot to go on here, Guess the theory is the converter clutch is dragging?

*Is the symptom transmission fluid temp related....Does it act up at full temp?

A dragging converter clutch is rarely a fault in the converter itself....But a control/pressure issue. Of course the converter clutch can be damaged & require replacement as part of the repair.

DTC's or other data you can provide?

The Linear Solenoids on 6F50's are generally reliable unless contaminated.
Click to expand...

He said he wants to put in a shift kit since he thinks one of the valves in the valvebody are worn. Zero DTC's when I chcked with forscan.

And bingo! I told him it only acts up when the transmission is fully up to temp! It'll act fine on the first half of a test drive and after we get off the highway it's acting up again.

Weirdly enough it seems to act up most when I coast for a while then come to a stop.

goblin said:
Are there any adaptations to reset on that car model ?
I had just the fluid flushed on my hyundai and it went worse, till I realised my cheap obd2 with my five bucks copy of Car Scanner for Android can reset adaptations in experimental mode. From there, it was a bit of ai questioning, and a full re-learning procedure (driving in specific ways).
One way or the other - scan for codes. I think there are some known good obd adapter for Fords, as well as some software. ForScan, was it...
Click to expand...
I've reset it but no changes sadly.
 
lolford said:
He said he wants to put in a shift kit since he thinks one of the valves in the valvebody are worn. Zero DTC's when I chcked with forscan.

And bingo! I told him it only acts up when the transmission is fully up to temp! It'll act fine on the first half of a test drive and after we get off the highway it's acting up again.

Weirdly enough it seems to act up most when I coast for a while then come to a stop.


I've reset it but no changes sadly.
Click to expand...

The Valves in the Valve Body need to be vacuum tested at known wear areas, Drop-in valves might or might not be a suitable repair depending on how bad the wear is to the valve body casting.
 
clinebarger said:
The Valves in the Valve Body need to be vacuum tested at known wear areas, Drop-in valves might or might not be a suitable repair depending on how bad the wear is to the valve body casting.
Click to expand...
Thank you for explaining! Based on it only happening on full temp after a long highway drive, would replacing the entire valve body most likely fix the issue?

bt4z7a100b

1763932460395.webp
 
Marcozi said:
lolford, ship the transmission to clinebarger so he can fix it properly!!! /s

Drive to Fort Wotrh so clinebarger can fix it properly!!! /s
Click to expand...
Wish I was in the us haha.

Not sure what to do about the car now, I had the water pump fail (again) the day after I did the converter replacement. Massive bill for a car that's still not fixed 100%

I'm ok to spend a bit of money on new valve bodies but if that doesn't fix it not sure what to do
 
lolford said:
Sadly no I paid cash as well. The shop owner believes it's the valvebody now.

I was getting desperate as I paid the dealer to look at it and they couldn't find any issue (despite me bringing scanner data etc) and my trusted mechanic said it was the torque converter but to try a transmission shop since they didn't want to be the one to use the parts canon.
Click to expand...
Always replace the valve body first.
The parts cost more but it's way cheaper labor.
Also it absolutely does not sound like a torque converter problem.
What does it do when you click it in neutral and come to a stop?
 
oil pan 4 said:
Always replace the valve body first.
The parts cost more but it's way cheaper labor.
Also it absolutely does not sound like a torque converter problem.
What does it do when you click it in neutral and come to a stop?
Click to expand...
It just sits at idle no issues! When I put it into drive it thudded and the rpm dipped.
 
lolford said:
It just sits at idle no issues! When I put it into drive it thudded and the rpm dipped.
Click to expand...
That sounds like the lockup is trying to engage. Yes the lockup is in the torque converter but it's being commanded to engage likely by the valve body or some sort of computer or electrical issues.
 
oil pan 4 said:
That sounds like the lockup is trying to engage. Yes the lockup is in the torque converter but it's being commanded to engage likely by the valve body or some sort of computer or electrical issues.
Click to expand...
Thanks! The weird thing is it only happens when fully warmed up! On to of that the converter locks up very quickly during normal driving, and when coasting to a stop it sends the unlock signal several seconds before I actually stop.

I've spent so much I'm thinking to replace both the solenoids and valvebody at this point and call it done
 
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