Estimate my repair bill - torque converter r&r

[Bailey28]

I am at the point to where I believe the NAG1 in my Dodge Charger needs a torque converter. I have changed the TCC lockup solenoid to eliminate the code P0741, changed the conductor plate and cycled multiple quarts of new ATF+4 fluid through the transmission. Hot fluid level correct. I still have mild torque converter shudder in higher gears at part throttle. Sometimes a dead pedal when I attempt to accelerate harder through it as well. The transmission shifts great up and down, no delay going into any gear, no clunks or bangs, no more code. Found no trash or shiny debris in the pan after the filter change. Magnet was fairly clean with no shiny metal.

I am brining the car to an indy mechanic that handles transmissionmission work this Monday. I discussed with him what I have found and have done so far and he seems to think I may be correct.

Can anyone add to: Diagnostic with HP Tuner software to data log his test drive. Unbolt and pull back transmissionmission, replace torque converter, also the price of what he might sell the converter to me for. Approximately 7-9 quarts of ATF+4. Shop supplies, labor, tax. disposal fee etc.

Also thinking of replacing transmission front pump seal at the same time, and entertaining replacing the engine rear main seal as a 'while you are in there' thing. Neither seal is leaking at this time.

 

[Chris142]

$3500

 

[Astro14]

Absolutely replace the pump seal - it’s what the converter slides into. New wear surface, new seal. No way I would ever re-use the old seal there. Crank seal is probably fine if it isn’t leaking, but it is such a pain, that I would do it as well.

I’m surprised that your NAG-1 needs a converter. My NAG-1 in the S600 needed a conductor plate, but it has lived behind a 600 ftlb torque monster for nearly 140,000 miles needing nothing more than that conductor plate.

 

[Bailey28]

$3500

That's nuts! Can you tell me more about how you came up with that, is that 'California pricing'? I was thinking: Converter $500, Input shaft seal $25, Fluid $135(9x$15), Rear main seal, $75, Labor 6 hours x $175/hr = $1,050, Tax $100, Fees, disposal, supplies = $75. Total $1,960. <<< This is my pre visit guess.

I watched a guy at a shop pull a NAG1 from a Charger in an hour from start to finish. He even screws around a little and had it out pretty quickly. I was generous with 6 hours of labor above including the rear main and pump seal.

 

[Bailey28]

Absolutely replace the pump seal - it’s what the converter slides into. New wear surface, new seal. No way I would ever re-use the old seal there. Crank seal is probably fine if it isn’t leaking, but it is such a pain, that I would do it as well.

I’m surprised that your NAG-1 needs a converter. My NAG-1 in the S600 needed a conductor plate, but it has lived behind a 600 ftlb torque monster for nearly 140,000 miles needing nothing more than that conductor plate.

Sounds like you have had good luck with your Nag1. I agree and kind of hoped the converter wasn't going to be an issue after changing out the fluid and filter and solenoid. This car has 75k on it and was not abused or modified in any way. The original fluid was clean without debris and only slightly darker after 13 years. I have seen tons of videos and posts saying it won't be the converter, and a ton that say yep, the clutches inside the converter were smoked.

I would like to know what caused this to happen... was it the PO drove around with the 0741 code for too long and the clutches went bad due to the lack of lock up control from the bad tcc solenoid? The transmission was not low on fluid when I took possession of the car. There were no leaks, the wiring harness was clean and dry upon disassembly by me when I replaced the conductor plate and solenoid.

 

[Chris142]

That's nuts! Can you tell me more about how you came up with that, is that 'California pricing'? I was thinking: Converter $500, Input shaft seal $25, Fluid $135(9x$15), Rear main seal, $75, Labor 6 hours x $175/hr = $1,050, Tax $100, Fees, disposal, supplies = $75. Total $1,960. <<< This is my pre visit guess.

I watched a guy at a shop pull a NAG1 from a Charger in an hour from start to finish. He even screws around a little and had it out pretty quickly. I was generous with 6 hours of labor above including the rear main and pump seal.

Where is labor $175 per hr? Ya im basing on Ca prices

 

[clinebarger]

Where is labor $175 per hr? Ya im basing on Ca prices

That's what I charge at the moment.

 

[dogememe]

Where is labor $175 per hr? Ya im basing on Ca prices

Easily $200/hr here… or more…

 

[Astro14]

That's what I charge at the moment.

if it were my car - I would make the drive to your shop. Totally worth it to me to pay your rate and know I’m getting a great mechanic.

 

[Mainia]

if it were my car - I would make the drive to your shop. Totally worth it to me to pay your rate and know I’m getting a great mechanic.

2,400 miles round trip?

 

[clinebarger]

Have the Torque Converter Clutch Regulator Valve vacuum tested either during the TC replacement or before.

 

[zzyzzx]

That's nuts! Can you tell me more about how you came up with that, is that 'California pricing'? I was thinking: Converter $500, Input shaft seal $25, Fluid $135(9x$15), Rear main seal, $75, Labor 6 hours x $175/hr = $1,050, Tax $100, Fees, disposal, supplies = $75. Total $1,960. <<< This is my pre visit guess.

I watched a guy at a shop pull a NAG1 from a Charger in an hour from start to finish. He even screws around a little and had it out pretty quickly. I was generous with 6 hours of labor above including the rear main and pump seal.

Then I am estimating $4000, because everything always costs double what you think it should.

 

[Astro14]

2,400 miles round trip?

Absolutely. Hard to put a price on quality work.

 

[SC Maintenance]

Where is labor $175 per hr? Ya im basing on Ca prices

Shop rate in North Florida is likely around $175.00 would be my guess.

It depends on how many hours for a TQ R&R. 6 sounds a bit light but I don't know that vehicle at all.

 

[clinebarger]

Shop rate in North Florida is likely around $175.00 would be my guess.

It depends on how many hours for a TQ R&R. 6 sounds a bit light but I don't know that vehicle at all.

I didn't look it up, But 6 hours is pretty close, Chrysler/FCA shorts labor all the time & surprised it's not lower given how easy the NAG1 is to get out of a LX/LD chassis.

Independent Repair Shops are not legally bound to using manufacturer labor times.

 

[Bailey28]

I am all for throwing a converter in on my back in the driveway however I do not have a lift to get the car high enough and I would have to rent or buy a transmissionmission jack. In the past I have had the luxury of accessing the converter after pulling engines and transmissionmissions together on other project cars.

I will find out if the indy wants to test the valve body first before removing the transmission as Clinebarger suggested may also be the problem. It appears a special jig and tools are needed to set up the ream for installing the valve body parts as well.

All of this could very well cost more than the car is worth at this point.

 

[Marcozi]

Easily $200/hr here… or more…

Come to metro DC if you want to see $250/hour labor charges.

 

[Chris142]

That's what I charge at the moment.

My area of the Mojave desert was $175 10+ years ago.

 

[Number_35]

Absolutely. Hard to put a price on quality work.

Friends from here winter in Texas some years. If they contacted me for advice about car problems while down there, I would send them to Chris or the other BITOG shop in that area (GMboy, IIRC).

Ditto for the other BITOG techs elsewhere in the U.S. - Trav in Boston, for example.

 

[clinebarger]

My area of the Mojave desert was $175 10+ years ago.

No offense meant....But I don't see the attraction to that area. I've driven/ridden through there dozens of times as my dad was born in Santa Maria & have extended family scattered from Lompoc to San Jose.

Looks & feels like parts of West Texas to me