tranny is going away

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I also thought that he already arx'd it.
Get the transmission rebuilt. For crying out loud, it has 168k miles on it, right? Its toast.
Or flush it with the CORRECT fluid and add nothing but the correct fluid.
Nothing but a rebuild fixes worn clutches.
Nothing but a rebuild fixes disntegrated seals(usually worn thin from excessive metal in ATF).

Its a cleaner and an ester too!
LUBEGARD® ATF PROTECTANT:
Reduces operating temperature, allowing transmissions to perform more efficiently
Increases thermal & oxidative stability of ATF for stop & go driving, heavy loads & towing
Reduces transmission wear, extends fluid & transmission life
Maximizes over all transmission performance
Helps reduce comeback & warranty problems for shops & mechanics
Insures proper & smooth shifts
Prevents clutch chatter & torque converter shudder
Eliminates objectionable noise (squawks) during shifts
Keeps valves free. Frees stuck valves in valve bodies
Prevents hung governors
Modifies harsh shifts & makes them quicker in duration
Can be used with all ATFs: OEM, Synthetic or Mineral Oil Based
Contains LXE (synthetic esters & synthetics)
 
respectivly,i have seen honda transmissions with 400k and they havent toasted yet..my uncle has one but his is now just shifting a little higher...

i did auto rx it. and it did help...but i only did a small dosage ( so i didnt follow the directions fully...i didnt have enough left hehe)....so probably i didnt clean out every thing...and maybe the honda atf just cleaned out something just recently cause its been umm 25k since my auto rx in my transmission.

and right now I AM using the right fluid HONDA ATF...but now its giving me problems after 2 weeks...ever since i done it. smooth shifts, but then in higher rpm shifts, it raises .4 rpms now...

never happend with old Dexron 3....only ruffer shifts...

my spot right now, is try and fix the problem before i take out my check book for a rebuilt transmission.

lube qard here for honda transmissions (black bottle with red cap) cant be found at all in my area...they just got the normal additive....which i dont want to use.

ill clean it with auto rx though....clean out everything...correctly this time with franks instructions and then later choose a fluid and then see if its still slipping then i may concider lube qard. rather have it clean then put an additive if i choose than rather putting an additive to a dirty transmission.
 
Drifter, I don't understnad exactly what is happening but it does not "slip" in gear. Right?
It only "appears" to slip when it is shifting by revving like crazy" just before it shifts. I used to drive and 91 Accord EXR 5-6 eyars ago with 80,000 miles. If I remember right, it had a "dual stage" intake system where, above a certain RPM, the long runners "shift" over to short runners for better breathing. Now the max torque on the short runners is generally the point the transmission will shift on a medium hard acceleration. Now if I recall the feeling,that coincides with 3500 rpms or so.
I have a sneaky suspicion that your engine is just "getting" on the short runners and "taking" off when the transmission shifts. This will make it feel like an over run or a few hundred extra revs for a split second or you wonder where that little burst was from.
I think that is the way it is supposed to perform. So far I have never experienced a 4 banger auto shifting the same way that torquey domestic V8s and V6s shift.

My rev happy V6 does a similar thing as yours actually. But I know exactly when the runners transform from a max torque long ram to a short tube for breathing - 3300-3800 rpm.
 
ill tell u, its not jumping rpms and gripping and slipping...its more like gliding along the gear.

lets see if i can break it down...: right before it shifts or is supposed to shift, the rpm goes up .4 rpm and then it shifts...its kdinda like a manual transmission that when u shift gears, u put in the gas a little more then take out the clutch causing a raise in rpm but gently putting it in gear.

except mine is a auto...did that clear it up?
 
Remember that the honda transmissions in that era were considered kind of "behind the times". Maybe the revs just shoot up when the transmission actually shifts because you have a low inertia motor.
I think your transmission is fine. I wouldn't dump any more stuff in there. The ATFZ1 is no doubt the right stuff.
 
quote:

Originally posted by digitaldrifter91:
maybe my honda atf hasnt "broken in" to the metals thats why its shifting like that

would a smoother shifting transmission cause more wear?


I donno, a friend of mine has a 93 Legend, and he has 273K on the original Transmission (auto) yes, thats what I said - on an auto?
It has always shifted for him rough, but recently gotten worse, and from talking with a lot of tech guys they tell him for That car it's normal.
That when the shifting gets worse, they have seen the cars do an additional 50K, 100K or more.
Anyhow, it has one: always been rough for his model, and two, gotten worse for about 25K now, and has not changed...
He just doesn't push it hard.
 
thanks for the replies guys. well im going to auto rx this transmission the correct way. and then go back to my old transmission fluid. all this started when i went with honda atf. later on i may go back to honda atf but im not sure. i know its the right stuff...but with the way this transmission is taking in the fluid does not please me.

and if a expensive transmission fluid like honda atf needs another friction modifier to help it, then really something isnt right. this fluid should of held up the battle for my shifts. this is one reason i dont want to put lube quard...

my first main concern, is clean out the transmission...second, the fluid, 3rd...who knows.

but im going to take this one step at a time. maybe honda atf was ok and there is just dirt in there, i wont know until i clean it out.

thanks for the help guys...ill order some auto rx on monday.
 
Sounds as if the transmission is operating correctly, albiet slowly. Like it shifts, but so slowly that the rpm goes up before it can get to the next gear. This can be caused by worn shift solenoids, sticky valves, poor pump performance, or sticking regulator valves. Definately ARX it. If it was slipping while in gear, not during a shift, I'd say rebuild due to worn clutches. But try to free everything up first. Then have a shop test the line pressure. Low pressure is the fault of either the regulator valves (may be more than one) or a worn pump. The valves could be replaced/repaired pretty easily, but if your pump is bad, then you might as well have the transmission rebuilt. Good luck!!!
 
thanks buddie..and everyone else. yea i inspected one of the silinoids...it was ok...but the lower one i could not get to...i should post pics soon huh haha.
 
sorry to hear the transmission seems to be going south. hope i did not direct you the wrong way-this should be the exact right stuff for the transmission and should need no further additive. what i might do, is call a dealer who can give a free transmission inspection and see what theyve got to say. if you got the right stuff in there now, maybe its supposd to shift like that. i am not second guessing your understanding of the feel of your own car. however, it may give you a good mindset as to just how much further you want to go with this. if you bought the car new-even if you didnt, call the service manager and chat. if you are a honda customer, i am guessing you can get a diagnosis for free as to what is wrong. if first one says no, try another. or if worse comes to worst check out some new cars and have em evaluate yours for trade-in. they'll tell you. worth a try??????
 
quote:

Originally posted by smeltjr:
sorry to hear the transmission seems to be going south. hope i did not direct you the wrong way-this should be the exact right stuff for the transmission and should need no further additive.

dont even worry about it, at least u introduced me to a better fluid for my car, basically the reason why this transmission is going south is just wear....its not your fault....the transmisson does shift better....

someone mentioned the shift silinoid...i wonder how i may check those.

smelt, ill give it a shot at the honda dealership...if its free...if not ill take it to AAmCo transmissions who give a free service to inspect and ill see what they say.

hehe i will not trade in this car, its basically soo new that it is new.

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=313

that site has a picture of my car, i am accordztech and that site is a 4th gen 90-93 oriented site...hehe see i say my car is clean
smile.gif


ill keep u guys updated.

thanks, and smelt....it wasnt ur fault at all
tongue.gif


its the right stuff....but something else is wrong
crushedcar.gif
 
drifter=
Did you read the link I gave you on "1990 honda accord transmission fluid"? Steps 6 thru 9 tell you how to check for good solonoid clicks and how to work them to get them better if its possible. Then if you can't get them working well you know they need replacing or worse.
 
Lube Guard is an oil additive to reduce friction -not what you need. O Rings in Honda Transmission don't need more complex additive packages. Clean that box with Auto-Rx and you get rid of the complex additive packages (chemistry that is causing you grief now), also you clean and refurbish the seals (without swelling)once you are done. Use a non-synthetic transmission fluid and don't add any petroleum based additives. By the way "Transmission" Fluid is base hydraulic oil (ISO 68) very thin stuff, then manufacture adds their petroluem additive package. You only need 6 ounces of Auto-Rx and be able to drive 1000 miles and drain the unit including the torque converter, and this is a one time application and, no, 12 ounces of Auto-Rx will not make it faster or work better. Six ounces, one time.
 
sorrie for the long wait but here is my silinoid shots.

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upclose
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silinoids and where it connects to on the transmission...see the holes..?
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everything buttoned up
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sorrie for the quality but u can see that its clean...nothin wrong..i still havent had the chance to put some autorx nor buy some, nor even change the fluid yet....

=)
 
sorrie angelfire suspended my account! idiots

buttoned up
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silinoid put to the side, now thats the holes where it goes into

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close up of the screens under the silinoids
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Before you junk or overhaul this thing, try Gunk additive. I'm a big believer. The have nice additives for seals. Ultra cheap too, so you can hardly loose.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Lahj Bawls:
Silly-noids or Solenoids?

hahah ok i cant spell...

id rather not use additives in my transmission at all though, im sceptic on the transmission side u kno? if a fluid cant preform well by itself and needs a additive, then its not a good fluid in the first place...
 
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