tranny change!! hard...

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i triend to change my fluid in my auto trannie a couple of days ago and i could not get the bolt off....i put lubrication and stuff and it didnt work no matter what, i even used a torque wrench...well i looked in my helms book today and it shows a pic of them loosinging the bolt on the auto and manual trannie.....on the manual trannie it shows the wrench going in a counter clockwise direction (and you know that dial that u use on a wrench that makes u tighten and loosen a bolt...thats how i am looking at the pictures...) well the auto trannies is the oppisite..it shows them loosening a bolt in the clockwise direction..i confirmed it by that dial on the wrench!!!!!!! i dont remember changing my fluid..its ben a while...but do you think the reason i couldnt get it off was becasue i was pulling it in the wrong direction???? now is it possible i messed something up!

please help me out..hopefully there is an accord user in here or someone who can possibly tell me why the picture is the way it is..thanks
 
drifter a easy way to remember is lefty loosy-righty tighty
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Except on older Mopar wheel lugs
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I used to have a 1990 Accord LX with an automatic. I changed the ATF often. I needed a regular 3/8 inch ratchet wrench to remove the ATF magnetized drain bolt. I always remember it being as simple as could be. The threads are regular, meaning that to loosen, you turn the bolt COUNTER CLOCKWISE.

Let me know if this helps.
 
quote:

Originally posted by dragboat:
drifter a easy way to remember is lefty loosy-righty tighty
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Except on older Mopar wheel lugs
wink.gif


AMEN, guess us older guys only remember stuff like that!
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Might I suggest something that will help getting it loose.

Take and go the other way!, Many times, all you need to do is BREAK the corrosion or what ever loose just a bit, not much, then you can go back to untightening the bolt in the correct direction. If I run into your problem, first try with reasonable size wrench with a little leverage(slightly bigger wrench than a little one), then I go the direction I believe its suppose to turn, then I go the other way. I'll exert as much force the other direction tightening it as I will trying to take it off. Most times, this will loosen or break it loose then it can be removed. If that doesn't work, then.. I will take a small hammer, and tap on it, to try and jar it loose a little while I'm exerting some force with the wrench. There is a special tool I use many times called an impact tool. You put a socket on the end, place it on the bolt, push down and it's set to be hit with a hammer and the force will drive the socket(btw, make sure it's a 6point socket not 12)to move and with the jaring effect and pressure, it may come loose. This impact wrench is very common and is very inexpensive.
 
quote:

Originally posted by BOBISTHEOILGUY:
AMEN, guess us older guys only remember stuff like that!
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Nah, I know that one, and I don't think I'm an older guy quite yet.

But I had to throw a lot of that stuff out the window when I moved into my current apartment. The louvered windows are on the "Lefty closey, righty openy" system, half the light switches are on to "Uppy offy, downy onny" system, and there's one pair of light switches where the most interior one controls an outside light and the other one controls an inside light. (Plus, one of those two switches is upside down.)

I meant to fix the switches when we moved in, but never got around to it. Fixing them now would probably just confuse me more. Maybe it will deter burglers if they can't figure out how to turn on the ****ed lights.
 
i did that lefty stuff man..hahah and it still wont budge..trust me after 4 years of working on cars i should know ahahhaha..i guess ill break the bolt somehow then
 
I'd warm the transmission up before I tried to loosen the bolt...it should make it easier...try putting the ratchet handle (or a breaker bar if you have one) on the bolt with the handle facing straight down or slightly forward if the ground is in the way and then pop it with a hammer. I can't imagine it being too stuck for that not to work...it is lubricated from the inside with ATF...
 
Better yet, get you an aerosol can of KROIL (Kano Labs, Nashville; now available also from EASTWOOD; I usually buy from machine supply house) and soak it an hour or overnight. This stuff makes WD-40 look as though it was water for the difference in effectiveness. I took apart a 30-year old suspension with a cheap 3/8 socket set using this stuff. Used a breaker bar once, maybe twice . . you get the idea.

A little goes a long way.

(And, yeah, tighten it a hair before loosening; scrub the threads with a wire brush up-and-close).
 
haha man i tried all that and no luck and better yet i have a HUGE PROBLEM now. now when i drive i smell a burning smell. i took out my tranny dipstick and then smelled it...it smells HECKA burnt...i gotta change it, but i cant ****it. i am going to try and break the bolt...but gosh if i break it then i wont get the whole thing out...i may have to tkae apart half of my transmission housing and replace it just becuase the bolt is messed up...iono ne other suggustions...can i just stick a pipe in there and psyphen it out?? can i use the cooler lines?? please help
 
can i just psyphen the fluid out of my tranny? i know it wont get as much as draining out but it will help me any ways. u think i can do that/??
 
If it's really stressing you, and you want the oil out, then you could siphon maybe 30% of the fluid out, and refill. A really long hose so you don't drop anything that needs to be retrieved.

That would give you a 30% oil change.

Run it a while, do it again, and you've changed half the old oil out.

Do it again, and you've changed 2/3 of the old oil.

You'll use a lot of oil, but maybe it's worth it instead of having to pull it to bits.

Being an auto, couldn't you just pull the pan like a lot of them require (and change the filter while you're in there ?)
 
This is an easy way to change ATF fluids from a trannie.

At the radiator, there is two lines coming from the transmission. Take one loose, have someone start the engine and watch to see if it pumps out, if not, then use the other one. Once you find the one that pumps out, setup a way to capture it into a bucket, put a funnel at the dipstick, have 12-14qts of opened bottles of atf sitting in reach, have someone start the engine, while the old fluid is pumping out into the bucket, start putting in new fluid as fast as it will take it. All the while watch the color of the fluid coming out, when the dark fluid changes to light new fluid color, you have now did a complete trans flush and no old fluid will be present. reconnect lines, and recheck your levels, add any if needed. The only thing you have not done is replaced the filter, which at this time appears to be another problem for a much more warmer day IMO.

Hope that helps.
bob
 
thanks guys....hehe ur my heros...well i have no filter..that sucks...and no pan. LOL crazy hu, i just got a broken bolt. well i was going to psyphen it but bob did bring up a good idea...just got to use a little more fluid but i am getting mainly 99% of it out. hehe this time around im using only dextron 3 from chevron...it was what i had before. i made previous posts in that i was going to use HONDA OEM for my fluid but since im using alot of fluid and i cant get that plug out im going to use normal dextron 3 until the summer then ill change it again.

is it ok if i over fill the tranny while its running and draining...should the car be level?
 
humm what if i psyphen a little from the bottom to get some of the stuff that fell down to that area like shavings...then do bobs idea..
 
It's best that it is level, but the fact you're using the transmissions internal pump to pump it out, it doesn't rely on gravity to feed out.

You won't over fill it very easily as it will pump out slightly faster than you can pour in. Main thing is watch for fluid color change as that will indicate the oil has completely cylced out and only new oil is in the system. Once you shut down the engine, you'll need to re install the line to the radiator, and then restart, warm up and check your levels. This is where you don't want to over fill. You might want to actually drive it for a bit to ensure it is complety warmed up before toping off. Chances are you'll be shy a little bit.
 
thank you bob. i really appreciate ur help and others as well. i bought 2 more 1 gallon ATF bottles today and the darn thing leaked in my trunk on my carpet..goSH just when i had the car purely clean...hahah so i guess i got a couple of things to do today. haha atf stinks...

o bob guess what!!! i found a store that sells amsoil, redline, and amsoil oil filters...hahahah i was surprised. now im going to look into that oil hahaha....o well that was just for ur info...thanks again
 
'Once you find the one that pumps out, setup a way to capture it into a bucket, put a funnel at the dipstick, have 12-14qts of opened bottles of atf sitting in reach, have someone start the engine, while the old fluid is pumping out into the bucket, start putting in new fluid as fast as it will take it'.
It not work very well.the rate pump out 1q per 15-20 sec.,rate add in throw dipstick 1q per 15 min.
try remove fill bolt if you can very very tight.
I would remove 1q old fluid -shut the engine,wait
until new fluid get in,then repeat the same for 2nd q,3rd q and ... until it is look good.Main idea to not starve and burn transs without fluid.Advice to look for superhonda,accordv6,cordclub on the web.
 
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