Toyota timing belt prices/choices

[edwardh1]

Local garage has two timing belt choices on a v6 Toyota at 90k miles. Service interval is 90 k on this engine for the belt

1. $650 for a toyota v6 timing belt, water pump, 2 drive belts, oem coolant, tax etc. they say this is what the dealer normally does.

or

2. $1000 - same as above PLUS hydraulic tensioner, idler bearing and idler pulley .

Which to choose? Seems most toyota stuff wears well and at the second timeing belt change (180k) you could/should do the tensioner and bearing pulley??
Thoughts?

 

[cptbarkey]

you should get all of that for about $800, call around more.

 

[mechanicx]

I don't think Toyota's are interference. And being just 90k miles I would probably go with the first option on the first change if the tensioner and pulley appeared fine. A lot of people ran them to failure (or they never failed) and replaced then if you don't mind a breakdown and tow.

 

[wirelessF]

When I had a shop do the TB belt on the tundra, they charged <$1000 except changing the TB tensioner. Al least get the idler pulleys changed, the bearing in them might not last that long.

 

[LeakySeals]

yeah Toyota parts wear well. That being said, the belt better be a Toyota OE. Find out if thats what they are going to use. Also for reference ask the dealer what they charge. Wouldn't hurt, you might be surprised. Many mechanics use the Toyota repair book for quotes so short cheaper labor and mystery aftermarket parts, the dealer may be closer than you think with better quality. Most times I DIY and use a local mechanic but every so often I use the dealer and while the cars being worked on ask to have them check other stuff (for free).

 

[edwardh1]

Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
yeah Toyota parts wear well. That being said, the belt better be a Toyota OE. Find out if thats what they are going to use. Also for reference ask the dealer what they charge. Wouldn't hurt, you might be surprised. Many mechanics use the Toyota repair book for quotes so short cheaper labor and mystery aftermarket parts, the dealer may be closer than you think with better quality. Most times I DIY and use a local mechanic but every so often I use the dealer and while the cars being worked on ask to have them check other stuff (for free).


dealer wants $750 for option 1. He did not mention the tensioner/bearings/pully.
private garage uses OEM parts (belt)

 

[dparm]

I would replace the extra parts. I'm actually surprised they don't replace the idler and tensioner at the same time. My Audi's serpentine belt service dictated doing all those at once.

 

[yonyon]

I recommend doing the idler, but if the tensioner is just a hydraulic unit that should be fine to replace with every other timing belt change. That kind of tensioner tends to last well over 300k so swapping it out at 180k is still a good safety margin. Even if it does go bad, it should just result in lower tension causing a slapping noise at idle without dropping the belt or anything nasty like that.

 

[edwardh1]

what do the idler pulleys do as they wear? get noisy? Squeal? etc?

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: edwardh1
what do the idler pulleys do as they wear? get noisy? Squeal? etc?


Yes. Also, I've found that some bearings may spin freely, but are actually beginning to fail. The only way to tell is if you removed them from the car and spun both of them side-by-side (with your finger in the hole). I had one pulley that sounded fine and spun fine on the car, but when you spun it off the car, it felt notchy and gritty compared to a new one.

 

[yonyon]

The thing about a pulley failing while in service is that it may not do anything noticable until the belt is rubbing the timing cover or much less likely, you get a few seconds of squealing and then a snapped belt. It can even be silent while locked up solidly and burn the belt off.