Toyota spin on oil filter conversion

[ZeeOSix]

Sorry to sound salty, but either help or don't respond at all, because someone seeking the information doesn't give a toss about your own preferences and what you like. I'm responding because I'd like the part numbers and details, and no one seems able to do it.

Best to find a Toytoa specific chat board where people have installed the spin-on kit if you want more details ... and look at post 6 like already suggested. I'm sure there is much more detailed info on the 'net if you take the time to search it out.

 

[daniel327]

My daughter has a 2012 Sienna with the same plastic cannister filter and when I last did her oil change I noticed the cannister went ALL the way in before even feeling very tight so I ordered an aftermarket aluminum one for $15 and will change it out at the next oil change.

That's normal for the 2AR-FE plastic filter housing. I lightly oil the new o-ring and the thread on the housing and install the filter by hand. Once it stops turning by hand I use the filter cup to tighten the housing about 1/32 of a turn (maybe less) and I've never had it come loose in over 12 years.

 

[FlyNavyP3]

The cartridge filter on my Tundra isn’t bad at all. I switched to the Toyota metal housing, can provide details if anyone wants them, about $25 for the aluminum one.

What’s really a pain on my truck is the height of the drain plug. I get oil every where when trying to drain it as it spews out a few feet from the plug. An oil extractor doesn’t work on this pan design.

The filter design is a non-issue compared with the plug.

I no longer let Toyota dealership “mechanics” work on my Toyota. They’re clowns.

They boogered up the old oil filter housing, so I bought the aluminum one. On another oil change, they left bolts stuck in a magnetic dish on the frame and had to get new bolts for the skid plate, oops... Finally, when doing a recall, forgot to put all the bolts back in the bumper bracket.

Three times I’ve let the Toyota dealer in Virginia Beach touch my truck, and each time, it’s been a clown show. They can’t even do an oil change without breaking or losing components.

Compared with gross ineptitude- who cares about filter design?

This sounds like the Toyota Dealership here in Jax, I wouldn't let them work on my push mower.

 

[ATex7239]

The plug is the issue on the Tundra. Two feet up. Pointed outboard. A very deep bottom to the pan with lots of height for the eight quarts behind that plug when it comes out.

Have you tried or is it possible to start the drain with the pan lifted up as close to the plug as possible? Once there is flow it can be slowly lowered to the ground. Raising the pan reduces the distance the oil has to fall, minimizing the splashing effect. Similar effect to the long pour in bartending.

 

[Astro14]

Have you tried or is it possible to start the drain with the pan lifted up as close to the plug as possible? Once there is flow it can be slowly lowered to the ground. Raising the pan reduces the distance the oil has to fall, minimizing the splashing effect. Similar effect to the long pour in bartending.

It has a Stahlbus on it now.

The problem isn’t just the height, the problem is the effect of the wind over that height. Once the oil flow is established, wind still blows it everywhere.

Here - I did just what you suggested - and after that pan was on the ground, the wind picked up.

Hence the Stahlbus.