Toyota Pink

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I have a hard time justifying buying any premix coolant, which Toyota Super LL Pink is. Paying for half distilled/purified/deionized or whatever water, just doesn't sit well with me. Especially when distilled is ~$0.83 at Wally. At least the Toyota red is full strength, though still no bargain.

It's also easier for me to do a total flush with any full strength and get at least a 50% AF concentration with full strength.
 
I agree with Bill and other, there is no reason to overpay for Toyota stuff, when suitable alternatives are available. Besides I thought that only the original fill lasted 10 years, any subsequent changes are much shorter, at least that's the case with my Mazda
21.gif
, can anybody confirm this.

Because, if subsequent fills can't last as long as the original one, then Toyota coolant makes even less sense.
 
Like I said, 10 years/100k miles.
$2.50 a year, IF IT'S NEEDED!
Pink is not the same as Red from what I've read. So you can't just dilute red with H2O and call it the same.
 
Originally Posted By: PurplePride
Like I said, 10 years/100k miles.
$2.50 a year, IF IT'S NEEDED!
Pink is not the same as Red from what I've read. So you can't just dilute red with H2O and call it the same.


OK, I did some digging and found this:

Change interval for 07 Camry Hybrid

So, just because you said it, doesn't make it a fact.

And my suspicion was right, only the first fill is for 100k (this one did not specify time interval) and mileage is cut in half for subsequent changes.

Text from the manual:

Type TOYOTA Genuine SLLC or the equivalent*
Maintenance First Time 100,000 miles (160,000 km)
Intervals Subsequent Every 50,000 miles (80,000 km)
Color Pink
 
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Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: PurplePride
Like I said, 10 years/100k miles.
$2.50 a year, IF IT'S NEEDED!
Pink is not the same as Red from what I've read. So you can't just dilute red with H2O and call it the same.


OK, I did some digging and found this:

Change interval for 07 Camry Hybrid

So, just because you said it, doesn't make it a fact.

And my suspicion was right, only the first fill is for 100k (this one did not specify time interval) and mileage is cut in half for subsequent changes.

Text from the manual:

Type TOYOTA Genuine SLLC or the equivalent*
Maintenance First Time 100,000 miles (160,000 km)
Intervals Subsequent Every 50,000 miles (80,000 km)
Color Pink


Where did he say he's over 100k miles? I don't see that?
Where did he say he's at 150k miles? I don't see that?
And yes, I don't know why I said 10 years - that's odd. I don't know why :)
 
Originally Posted By: PurplePride
See post by toyot62 here:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/toyota-red-long-life-pink-super-long-life-same.123665/
That's where I picked up 10 years, FWIW.


Big difference between FACTORY fill and normal maintenance.

So its "only" $5 a year MORE... And no where does it say time. (and I feel that everyone would agree that with coolant, time IS a factor and should be changed every x years no matter the miles)

Still stand by my recommended flush and change with something different coolant than the stupid Toyota coolant.

Bill
 
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: PurplePride
See post by toyot62 here:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/toyota-red-long-life-pink-super-long-life-same.123665/
That's where I picked up 10 years, FWIW.


Big difference between FACTORY fill and normal maintenance.

So its "only" $5 a year MORE... And no where does it say time. (and I feel that everyone would agree that with coolant, time IS a factor and should be changed every x years no matter the miles)

Still stand by my recommended flush and change with something different coolant than the stupid Toyota coolant.

Bill


Can someone answer a simple question - trying again here - where is his mileage listed?
The poster stated the TSB said 10/100. I'm going on that. Again, please read what I post and absorb it. It keeps redundant posts from being needed.
 
I think 10 years is too long for the factory coolant. It wouldn't be the first time the factory recommended an excessive maintanance interval, i.e, lifetime ATF, 100K mile plugs that don't always last that long etc. Japanese extended life coolant is not really a longer life coolant than Dexcool and there's no good reason to think it protects best beyond 5 years. 5 years/100k miles is more reasonable and that assume a complete change.

And if someone is just draining the radiator that is only changing about 1/2 the coolant, so you need at least about 3-4 drains to get a near total change. So it wouldn't be too excessive to drain the radiator every 1-2 years. I would run it about 5 years/100k miles, then drain the radiator and block and refill with OE coolant. If you wanted to be really cheap maybe use Peak Global or Dexclone. But if the vehicle was not OE filled with extended life, I'd be more hesistant to use those aftermarket EL coolants. I usually just go with Green.

what we need is some info about the OP's vehicle model and year, milage etc.
 
Originally Posted By: sayjac
The Toyota Red Long Life which is full strength would be compatable but's ~$18 a gallon, so not cheap either.

Bill suggests Peak Global Life full strength, but I also live in NC and my local NAPA's don't carry it. It would be best to do a complete exchange with it if you were going to use it. You could call and see if the local NAPA's can get it.

I've used universals (Prestone) with a complete flush in an 01 Tacoma with no issues. Even Chevron Supreme Low Silicated Full Strength Green from Food Lion would work with a total flush.

Not sure how long you've run it but as suggested, if it looks good just run it some more. It is supposed to be Super Long Life.

Sorry to hear about your unemployment, hope things improve for you soon.

Peak Global Life full strength

If you want it try Ace and True Value hardware
 
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Originally Posted By: badnews

Peak Global Life full strength

If you want it try Ace and True Value hardware


Its also been reported that Walgreens carries it (the full strength) though our local ones carry only the 50/50 mix stuff for $8.99
21.gif
 
Sorry-I should have said 10 years/100 K miles in my initial post-but if you have to change it, why not Toyota Red Long Life or Zerex Asian Vehicle-both are available aftermarket, Red is available full strength, change every 3 years or so? I feel your financial pain, I'm lucky to have a decent job, but memories of my (broke) youth are still vivid (like my '64 Beetle that had to be push-started anytime it got below freezing, also no heat). I'd personally stay away from Dexclones/Dexcool and silicate-containing formulas if it was my car.
 
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: PurplePride
Whatever. Your comprehension is lacking.
Read my post.
Better yet, quit thinking you're some kind of overlord here.
Seriously.


lol.gif


Just keep the OP in mind when you reply. Someone who is unemployed is looking to save money. The standard spew of "it's only a few more $$" is really old.



Dude, he should use the Toyota coolant. Does it make sense for him to chance his water pump seals to something that's "supposed" to be compatible with those seals AND the seals of every other brand and model of car on the road?
My two cents hold that he shouldn't touch his cooling system until he can afford to put the correct fluid back in.
 
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Originally Posted By: L_Sludger

Dude, he should use the Toyota coolant. Does it make sense for him to chance his water pump seals to something that's "supposed" to be compatible with those seals AND the seals of every other brand and model of car on the road?
My two cents hold that he shouldn't touch his cooling system until he can afford to put the correct fluid back in.


Please. All the Toyota's out there and EVERYONE uses Toyota coolant? All the seals failing due to coolant?

Okay, your story. Tell it any way you'd like. I'll stick to facts. (I guess I'll find out when my seals fail. I'll let you know when that happens)

Bill
 
Originally Posted By: NCGuy68
The dealer wants $25/gal. for this stuff. I'am unemployed and every dollar counts. I only need to do a simple drain and refill - no flush needed as the system is squeaky clean. There has to be a cheaper fluid that is compatable with the pink.


The Toyota coolant is an OAT with phosphate, zero silicon, and no 2EHA.

Although DexCool and its clones are similar, Toyota does not recommend them because of the 2EHA and the lack of phosphates.

The Nissan and Honda OEM coolants are similar and compatible.

Zerex makes an Asian coolant (NAPA carries it) which is compatible.

I did a complete drain and flush on my Toyota and replaced it with G-05, the same coolant used in Chrysler, Ford, and Mercedes.

It is a HOAT with a very low silicon, which does about the same thing the phosphate does in the Toyota.
 
Toyota pink is an HOAT, sebacic acid and phosphate. G-05 actually has more silicates than Green because the green is usually HD SCA requirement compliant. I think Dexcool and Peak Global are close enough to Toyota pink as far as seal compatibility. and of course there's Zerex AVF. I wouldn't use the allmakes dexclones though. I'd go with Havoline dexcool which contains sebacic or Zerex which has molybdate which acts like having an IAT phosphate.
 
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
Toyota pink is an HOAT, sebacic acid and phosphate. G-05 actually has more silicates than Green because the green is usually HD SCA requirement compliant. I think Dexcool and Peak Global are close enough to Toyota pink as far as seal compatibility. and of course there's Zerex AVF. I wouldn't use the allmakes dexclones though. I'd go with Havoline dexcool which contains sebacic or Zerex which has molybdate which acts like having an IAT phosphate.


G-05 does not have more silicates than most "green", but both G-05 and the bulk of the greens are very low in silicates, certainly low enough to be of no concern to water pump seals.

What the Dexcool clones lack is the fast repair that the phosphate in the Toyota formula provides.

G-05 uses the silicate to accomplish more or less the same thing.
 
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