TOYOTA OIL DRAIN PLUG GASKET

I've never, ever, used a torque wrench on a drain plug. Motorcycle, car, lawn mower, never.

People with no mechanical aptitude think they are doing "the right thing" when using a torque wrench for everything. Problem is, sometimes these people pick up on the wrong spec, the threads are lubed when they shouldn't be, or the threads in the equipment have deteriorated. Before you know it, stripped threads, or something tight or loose.

Drain plugs are easy: tighten until bolt contact, then tighten a little more, while you "feel" the washer crush down just a little. Done.

Of course, some people have hands like spatulas, basically, no feel. If you are like this, find a good mechanic, and don't F*** anything up.
Same. And I own 4 torque wrenches.
 
I don't like anything plastic like under a tightened bolt. The material can "cold flow" away from the pressure and cause the bolt to loosen over time. I would imagine a hot oil sump would make it worse.

I've seen those coated washers on Amazon but will not use them.
 
So, now that there have been some answers, I gotta ask: what's wrong with the crimped crush washers that literally crush, like Toyota specs on their truck transmission pans and differential drains?

Subaru also uses extensively on engine oil drains and maybe some diff drains.

I guess just not wanting to replace it every oil change?
 
I use those drain plug washers all the time, as I purchased 500 of them from Temu for $3.50. Anyhow, the trick is to tighten them until they crush a bit. I give them one or two ugga duggas with a regular box wrench.
 
From my experience using the blue coated washers on a Highlander, making the plug too tight fused the blue coating onto the pan and was a real pain to remove. But mine may have been knockoffs on eBay so I dumped them.
 
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The factory drain plug gasket on a 2021 Corolla that I service had already fused to the pan. I've reused it for four oil changes without issue. I do güdentite on the drain plug.
 
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I have two (2) Camry's...both with the 4-cylinder engine. I change oil in both of them ~ 2x per year. I use the Toyota oil drain plug gasket pictured below and torque both drain plugs to 18 ft-lbs per Toyota spec. Over the past 2 years, I've noticed that both drain plugs are finger tight at best when I change the oil. I've noticed that the coating or whatever is on both sides of these aluminum washers disintegrates...mostly on the side of the gasket that is in touch with the oil pan. FWIW both oil pans are metal. The drain plugs are both the original and are perfect. You can hand tighten both bolts snug and then tighten with the torque wrench. FWIW I have two different torque wrenches I've used to make sure there is not a problem with the amount of torque applied. I have in the past bought packets of washers from a Toyota online parts dealer and really haven't had an issue. I went to my local dealer and bought a few washers for the most recent change to see if I would get a different result....same problem. Within a week both drain plugs have loosened to where you need to tighten the bolts another 1/4 turn or more. Thankfully neither drain plug has completely come out. Generally they seem to about one to two turns to being hand tight.

Question...has any one experienced this problem using TOYOTA drain plug gaskets? For reference here is a picture of the gasket and the Toyota p/n.

P/N 90430-12031
View attachment 285725
Just a thought, they sell washers for these too on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YVKL6D...Z867P9ED7&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1
 
I love the Toyota gaskets. My torque wrench is my calibrated hand. I feel them crushing and then I stop. Never any leaks.
 
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Thanks for all the interest and replies. The 18 ft-lb spec for the drain plug came from a posting on Toyota Nation from 2009 (been a member on that forum for more than 10 years) that had an illustration showing the torque in both newton-meters and ft-lbs. for the 4-cylinder engine.

The Camry's I own are a 2005 and 2008 models. The 2005 I bought new and I am the the only person that has ever changed the oil in this car. The 2008 I have had for 10+ years and I am the only one changing the oil on that vehicle since I took possession. I have always used the 18 ft-lb spec on BOTH vehicles and has served me well until about 2 years ago when something changed with the construction of the drain plug washer. I searched Toyota Nation forum about the problem and other owners are having a similar problem. Some say there are counterfeit providers that are using a different coating but I can't say for sure.

I see some illustrations for different Toyota models that show 30 ft-lbs. I did find that almost ALL Toyota's use a 12mm x 1.25" drain plug.

At this point I am going to stop using the Toyota coated washers are use an all aluminum 12mm crush washer and start with 18 ft-lbs and keep increasing the torque if I notice it coming loose.
 
Thanks for all the interest and replies. The 18 ft-lb spec for the drain plug came from a posting on Toyota Nation from 2009 (been a member on that forum for more than 10 years) that had an illustration showing the torque in both newton-meters and ft-lbs. for the 4-cylinder engine.

The Camry's I own are a 2005 and 2008 models. The 2005 I bought new and I am the the only person that has ever changed the oil in this car. The 2008 I have had for 10+ years and I am the only one changing the oil on that vehicle since I took possession. I have always used the 18 ft-lb spec on BOTH vehicles and has served me well until about 2 years ago when something changed with the construction of the drain plug washer. I searched Toyota Nation forum about the problem and other owners are having a similar problem. Some say there are counterfeit providers that are using a different coating but I can't say for sure.

I see some illustrations for different Toyota models that show 30 ft-lbs. I did find that almost ALL Toyota's use a 12mm x 1.25" drain plug.

At this point I am going to stop using the Toyota coated washers are use an all aluminum 12mm crush washer and start with 18 ft-lbs and keep increasing the torque if I notice it coming loose.
I very confident that the torque spec for your drain plug should be 30# as others have mentioned. Get a day subscription to TIS (Tis is the Toyota factory service manual) to verify. Just because something was posted online doesn't make it true.
 
"Question...has any one experienced this problem using TOYOTA drain plug gaskets?"
Yes! (Avalon, Sienna, Rav4, etc)

I change the only on various friends of mine. Mazda, Honda, Subaru, Volvo, Nissan and Toyota (I own 3 toyotas).
The only drain plugs I have had this happen with is the toyotas using those coated washers.

I bought some aftermarket washers and have sometimes encountered that the coating tears off (as if it's a paper like coating that separates form the metal washer).

I just got a new pack of washers that feels more like a sprayed on rubber like coating. Maybe they will be better.
Otherwise I'm going to find a properly sized actual crush washer or move to a solid aluminum one.

The toyotas with these washers is the only car I've ever had this happen on. Very strange
 
I have only seen this issue on high mileage engines where the oil pan drain plug threads are weak.

Also, the published drain plug torque spec is definitely intended for dry threads and surfaces. 30ft lbs will feel way too tight on Toyota steel pans during a routine oil change.
 
I have only seen this issue on high mileage engines where the oil pan drain plug threads are weak.

Also, the published drain plug torque spec is definitely intended for dry threads and surfaces. 30ft lbs will feel way too tight on Toyota steel pans during a routine oil change.
If 30 ft-lbs is too tight...what would you recommend? I checked the drain plug this morning after driving about 60 miles yesterday and sure enough it was loose again (I ordered new aluminum crush washers and have not received them yet). I torqued it to 25 ft-lbs and thought it felt really tight.
 
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