Toyota/Lexus Owners
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Originally Posted By: goodtimes
Are you going to show a picture of your jewel? Carburetor is worse, my 85 Camry had fuel injection. When the smog fail demon strikes, usually the cost to fix is too much. Can be many things, cat, valves, air leaks, smog devices, good luck. That's why I can't remember when I saw an 85 Toyota on the road here.
Here it is.
No worries regarding the California emissions tests. Catalyst will last forever because there is no oil consumption. Valves are fine. Everything is in good order. Engine runs like new except the choke breaker I am not bothering to replace since it's riveted, even though I have the new OEM part -- only causes rough idle with cold engine.
Regarding the history of oil and filter used, since it required SF or SF/CC, between 10w30 and 20W-50, it used mostly conventional 10w30, 10W-40, and 15w40, (Valvoline, Castrol, Mobil Delvac, and unknown oils) and TGMO 0W-20 SN during the recent four OCIs. Random oil filters in the past (including Purolator) followed with a religious use of Toyota/Denso 90915-YZZxx OEM oil filters (initially made in USA and then Thailand), and now Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil filter (old version).
Are you going to show a picture of your jewel? Carburetor is worse, my 85 Camry had fuel injection. When the smog fail demon strikes, usually the cost to fix is too much. Can be many things, cat, valves, air leaks, smog devices, good luck. That's why I can't remember when I saw an 85 Toyota on the road here.
Here it is.
No worries regarding the California emissions tests. Catalyst will last forever because there is no oil consumption. Valves are fine. Everything is in good order. Engine runs like new except the choke breaker I am not bothering to replace since it's riveted, even though I have the new OEM part -- only causes rough idle with cold engine.
Regarding the history of oil and filter used, since it required SF or SF/CC, between 10w30 and 20W-50, it used mostly conventional 10w30, 10W-40, and 15w40, (Valvoline, Castrol, Mobil Delvac, and unknown oils) and TGMO 0W-20 SN during the recent four OCIs. Random oil filters in the past (including Purolator) followed with a religious use of Toyota/Denso 90915-YZZxx OEM oil filters (initially made in USA and then Thailand), and now Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil filter (old version).
I saw a 1987 Camry last night, and there's a 1982 Supra for sale at a place called Classic Cars West that also has a vegan restaurant on-site. Strange bedfellows. There's also a 1984 Cressida I see around my neighborhood a few times.
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Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Here it is.
That's in insanely good shape. My 1983 Ford LTD didn't look that good 5 years after it was produced.
Here it is.
That's in insanely good shape. My 1983 Ford LTD didn't look that good 5 years after it was produced.
Those were so easy to drive with the visibility, change lanes, parking, all easier. The cars now are all blocked in. I would take that design over a modern car if the safety could be the same. The wheels don't even rust much if at all where you live. Those look like the steel wheels.
Yup, I love the visibility and low-to-ground access and the spacious interior and trunk, despite being a subcompact. It's a very practical design.
The picture was taken after I waxed it and people were making offers to buy it when I was driving it. I don't have time to clean it these days.
Interior is good, no rust on the exterior. However, the paint on the hood is pretty bad. I am not the original owner (bought in Delray Beach/Boca Raton, Florida, by a Taiwanese graduate student and sold to another Taiwanese graduate student here before I got it, somewhat neglected and abused by bought) and spent many years restoring it into stock condition and fixing things. It did cross-country at least three times before settling back here. Steel wheels were replaced with identical-style OEM ones -- not because of rust but neglected paint. Exterior and interior trim is in mostly good condition. I once saw a 1985 Corolla around here with perfect original paint.
The picture was taken after I waxed it and people were making offers to buy it when I was driving it. I don't have time to clean it these days.
Interior is good, no rust on the exterior. However, the paint on the hood is pretty bad. I am not the original owner (bought in Delray Beach/Boca Raton, Florida, by a Taiwanese graduate student and sold to another Taiwanese graduate student here before I got it, somewhat neglected and abused by bought) and spent many years restoring it into stock condition and fixing things. It did cross-country at least three times before settling back here. Steel wheels were replaced with identical-style OEM ones -- not because of rust but neglected paint. Exterior and interior trim is in mostly good condition. I once saw a 1985 Corolla around here with perfect original paint.
Yup, the hatch version of that model was last Toyota I would've considered buying until the Prius hatchback appeared. Very sensible, practical, economical, durable, and straightforward. Any trouble with the "igniter" (the electronic bit of the ignition system, combined with a pick-up coil if it was like the one in my Mazda)?
It's common knowledge that Japanese OEM branded filters have low filtering efficiency, whether made in Thailand, the US, Japan or on Mars.
That the Japanese OEMs write the specs for these filters wherever they might be made tells us that they don't think that filtering efficiency is of any great importance.
Therefore, use whatever Toyota branded oil filter you can get cheaply. If you want to go a little upscale, you could buy the same oil filters cheaply online from a Lexus dealer
.
If you want better filtering efficiency, then there are a plethora of aftermarket brands that will deliver that for the same coin.
That the Japanese OEMs write the specs for these filters wherever they might be made tells us that they don't think that filtering efficiency is of any great importance.
Therefore, use whatever Toyota branded oil filter you can get cheaply. If you want to go a little upscale, you could buy the same oil filters cheaply online from a Lexus dealer
If you want better filtering efficiency, then there are a plethora of aftermarket brands that will deliver that for the same coin.
Originally Posted By: CR94
Any trouble with the "igniter" (the electronic bit of the ignition system, combined with a pick-up coil if it was like the one in my Mazda)?
Nope, no igniter or ignition-coil problems. The only problem with the distributor was the governor-advance shaft. The grease they used dried up and the sleeve bearing welded. I replaced the distributor with a new OEM one at one point because of that, as I wanted the governor advance to be working. I was doing maintenance on my new distributor several years ago and I noticed that the grease was drying up again. I cleaned it and generously repacked it with Valvoline SynPower full-synthetic moly grease, which should withstand high temperatures. It should last forever now.
So, even Nippondenso doesn't always use the best materials or parts.
Any trouble with the "igniter" (the electronic bit of the ignition system, combined with a pick-up coil if it was like the one in my Mazda)?
Nope, no igniter or ignition-coil problems. The only problem with the distributor was the governor-advance shaft. The grease they used dried up and the sleeve bearing welded. I replaced the distributor with a new OEM one at one point because of that, as I wanted the governor advance to be working. I was doing maintenance on my new distributor several years ago and I noticed that the grease was drying up again. I cleaned it and generously repacked it with Valvoline SynPower full-synthetic moly grease, which should withstand high temperatures. It should last forever now.
So, even Nippondenso doesn't always use the best materials or parts.
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