Toyota/Lexus 3.3L V6 Water Inlet (Valley) Plate Coolant Leak

The intake manifolds removal on a 3.3L is a PITA, there are some bolts that hold the housing to the rear and almost blindly you will have to remove and put it back. No fun.

The Lexus is much simpler since the entire manifold is held with studs w/o the bolts to the rear (or atleast that is what I have seen on the 3.5L when I extended my arm behind the manifolds).

Oh yeah, replacing the plugs is when you really wonder how hard it is on a Highlander vs. Lexus. You pay a 10K more for ease of replacement on a Lexus from plugs, mounts, LCA etc.
I just did rear valve cover gasket on my sisters Highlander. Absolute nightmare. I’ve done that coolant hose in the valley also. That wasn’t a peach either. When I had that air plenum off I did rear plugs and replaced all the coils also. It was my moms car at the time and it hit 200k miles and I didnt want her stranded.
 
that rear valve cover gasket is a real joy isn’t it. At least for the 3.3 it was for me.
It really wasnt that bad in my opinion...i just tripled up on the foam pads I was laying on and just soldiered on.

Now the power steering pressure line from the pump to the rack...that sucked
 
It really wasnt that bad in my opinion...i just tripled up on the foam pads I was laying on and just soldiered on.

Now the power steering pressure line from the pump to the rack...that sucked
well thats exactly right. I was just frustrated as heck trying to keep the new gasket on the cover while trying to get it on while fighting that huge wire loom.
 
well thats exactly right. I was just frustrated as heck trying to keep the new gasket on the cover while trying to get it on while fighting that huge wire loom.
The dealer gaskets fit tightly. If you use Fail-Pro, well, use a few dots of super glue and glue the gasket to the cover.
 
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These f..ckass jobs stick with OEM!! Seriously not worth the cost advantage. Same goes with the rear air-fuel sensor another class act. My daughter totaled my Highlander so no more of that gripe
 
Are any of the stud through holes (into the coolant or oil passages - thread sealant needed)? Gonna tackle this tomorrow on an 04 rx330.

Also, no knock sensor issues - if the wire harness is clean and in good shape, should I still consider changing? I am changing the coolant pipe.

Also decided I'm switching this car to peak asian red and using the 1282b three bond sealant for the repair. Right now it has mystery orange in it... :eyeroll:
 
Are any of the stud through holes (into the coolant or oil passages - thread sealant needed)? Gonna tackle this tomorrow on an 04 rx330.

Also, no knock sensor issues - if the wire harness is clean and in good shape, should I still consider changing? I am changing the coolant pipe.

Also decided I'm switching this car to peak asian red and using the 1282b three bond sealant for the repair. Right now it has mystery orange in it... :eyeroll:
I didn’t use any Loctite PST/Permatex 518, the holes are blind AFAIK but they should be cleaned.

I did this job on an 05 Sienna a while ago, it has Prestone Cor-Guard using 2-EHA that has been documented to attack silicone. Same mechanism of failure behind the IMGs on GM 3.1/3.4L “High Value” V6s, 3.8L 3800 V6s and the 4.3L V6/5.7L V8 Vortec truck engines.
 
Well, did it today. Ordered the sub harness, it will be here Monday - apparently on national backorder so I had to search a dealer that had it in stock.

I put a healthy bead along the channel, had a bit of smoosh out outside and in. (Couldn't remember if I pulled the towel I put to block the water pump, so used a snake camera to check through the tstat hole. Yes, I had removed it, and I could see silicone along the flange edge.) This is the dumbest design ever. GM's valley covers have a metal gasket with silicone/rubber on the inside edge. I don't understand why they couldn't do that here and save this hassle.

It's just a pain in the butt. All holes are blind, confirmed.
 
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