Toyota ECHO & Sludge?

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Originally posted by sifan:
simple_gifts - How is your oil bypass filter working out for you? I know my '03 Echo's factory platinum plugs last 60k miles. What does a 30k tuneup do besides air filter/plugs replacement at 60k? Did you go to the dealer for the service?

According to blackstone "bypass is working well, no harmful contaminants found"; This was after 8,700 mile OCI.

On the issue of plugs, you are the second person mentioning either a 60K or 100K change interval. The owner's manual states "30K to maintain emissions warranty" I did not keep the 30K plugs, but I did keep the plugs pulled @ 60K (30K interval) The ones I saw are not 60K plugs.

I went to the dealer @ 30K and had air filter, plugs, cabin filter, tires rotated, gear oil changed and a warranty item fixed (transaxle leak) and coolant changed.

At 60K the same service, and I had them change the gearbox oil to 50% Redline MTL and 50% MT-90 (a wise choice) but I was charged $100 less than the previous time.

My friends father in law works @ the dealership so I specify I want him working on the car. I only want "people I know" touching the car, instead of having a service manager doing a CYA for some "nameless technician"
 
Soot/Solids/Insolubles include ash, carbon, lead salts from gasoline engines, and oil oxidation. We have plenty of Toyotas over here with 1.5L 1NZ-FE engines. They are speced for 95 RON or higher gasoline (probably 89 PON in USA), so dont use anything lower. Another difference is that you have EGR in your 1NZ-FE while we dont. VVTi + EGR, more exhaust gases are recycled back in to intake, not good if you ask me. I would use the best fuels available, maybe Chevron 91 + techron regularly to keep the cc clean. ARX definately sounds like a good idea esp if you dont know the previous history. Maybe even 2 ARX cleaning phases. Sustained high speed driving & hill climbs also puts more stress on an oil and increase chances of sludging problem. Some oils have very good cleaning ability and will help prevent sludging. Dyson in-house kits still use 'soot/solids' readings and oils like Castrol SLX aka GC consistently give me zero soot/solids. In my opinion, the new generation of Toyota VVTi are even more prone to sludging than the previous generation of non-VVTi engines. My 2.4L 2AZ-FE runs very hot compared to my 2.2L 5S-FE. I also have a 1.6L 3ZZ-FE, but does not run as hot as the 2AZ-FE. I was considering the 1.5L 1NZ-FE too, but bcos it uses electric power steering, I decided not to get it.
 
simple_gifts - How is your oil bypass filter working out for you? I know my '03 Echo's factory platinum plugs last 60k miles. What does a 30k tuneup do besides air filter/plugs replacement at 60k? Did you go to the dealer for the service?
 
Thank you Ken4 for the reply and information. I'm still learning a lot here but have a long way top go it seems. The manual calls for ASTM D4814, and then says 87 octane (Research Octane Number 91) which now has me confused because I'm not sure what they are trying to tell me or which is the number shown on our pumps. I've been using what our pumps show as 87, and there is no pinging at all plus I'm averaging 41.7 MPG with the AC on all the time and a 250 Lb passenger, so I suspect this might be OK. I checked the Iridium plugs last weekend and they are clean as can be.

I changed the oil and filter at 31025 mi when I bought it to Mobil 1 SuperSyn 5w30 as well as the transmission oil and filter plus the anti-freeze and plugs. I changed the oil again at 34681 mi to Pennzoil API SM 5W30 plus the A-RX. The M1 looked quite good for 3656 mi when drained I thought.

I have obtained 18 Qts of GC and plan to use part of it in this car when the A-RX rinse is done, and then start UOA. I am using FP60 now and plan to use LC20 once on the GC.

Does anyone see anything wrong with this as a plan? I'm open to suggestions of course.

I'm just trying to get through all of this without being stupid, maybe this part isn't working out.

Thanks for any help with this.

John
 
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